First Boat Restoration!

jbcurt00

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Re: a few questions

Re: a few questions

BTW: You need to cover exposed epoxy w/ paint, varnish, vinyl etc. It becomes yellow, brittle & cracks when exposed to UV. Gluvit etc is usually left uncovered when used on the interior of the hull because it is usually going to be covered by the deck.
 

starcraftmike

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Re: a few questions

Re: a few questions

Ahhhhh, so epoxy needs covered too, that makes sense. I would rather do it up now while she is open than to have to back and redo it later.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: a few questions

Re: a few questions

The under deck stuff doesn't need to be covered, Gluvit or other epoxy based seam sealers. So if you're using epoxy on the underside of the deck plywood, it won't need to be covered either. But, yeah everything else that gets epoxy will need UV protection.

Spar varnish does have UV inhibitors in it.
 

kfa4303

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Re: a few questions

Re: a few questions

+1. You can even use Glu-it to seal the transom and other wood pieces, but that may get pricey. However, Spar Urethane is readily available and much less expensive and can last quite some time, if applied correctly. You can even leave it clear, rather than having to paint over it like you do with epoxies.
 

starcraftmike

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Re: a few questions

Re: a few questions

Starmada test labs is awesome stuff, right up my alley!

I am thinking for the floor and transom I will probably go with the spar varnish and paint overcoating, then carpet due to finances, that seems to be in my budget for that part of this restore, plus its available locally if I were to need more of a product.

I am shopping around for gluvit or equivalent product now to do my seams.

Still on the fence on flotation foam and will be researching the test lab more here more before plunging in on that can of worms.

Going to try a few corroded areas tonight with the fine wire wheel and locktite marine epoxy tonight... I am so glad I have an air conditioned shop to work on her in! Its terrible hot around here and humidity is setting in.
 

starcraftmike

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Re: a few questions

Re: a few questions

In progress photos
 

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rheagler

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Re: a few questions

Re: a few questions

Looking good! Your making some nice progress there!
 

jasoutside

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Re: a few questions

Re: a few questions

Man, our Starcraft splashwells take up sooo much real estate:rolleyes:

A few of us have been able to reduce em if you feel like heading down that road.

Good progress:)
 

magnumdeke

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Re: First Boat Restoration!

You have been getting great advice so far, only thing I have not seen mentioned was any wire wheel you use needs to be Stainless steel, regular wheels will embed particles of carbon in your aluminum which has the potential to corrode it down the line. My choice for decking is ac grade sanded one side plywood and epoxy. Gluvit will work great for sealing your seams and the pits, coat it is a cheaper alternative and should work well also. have fun with your project and do some reading on here and you will be able to make informed decisions,
 

starcraftmike

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Re: First Boat Restoration!

I'm so glad this site is here! I never thought about the stainless steel wire wheel! I did quite a bit last night with some wheels from lowes, I will check on some stainless wheels today. I do hvac and plumbing work so I don't work with aluminum much. Appreciating all the tips everyone.
 

starcraftmike

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corrosion removal

corrosion removal

Ok, so as I wire wheel the corroded spots there are places I can't reach... Down in the pits, is there a cleaner I can use for them? Vinegar and water? Or commercial stuff to get all the crud out before epoxying over the spots?
 

bananaboater

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Re: corrosion removal

Re: corrosion removal

I used a Dremel tool with flexible shaft to get to the tight places. I used to make fun of Dremels but now find them indispensable.
 

starcraftmike

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Re: corrosion removal

Re: corrosion removal

PROGRESS!!!!!

got the transom removed over weekend. Looks to be 3 sheets of 1/2" plywood.

After nearly fifty years she did not let go super easily! The wood was in way worse shape than I thought.

This week I plan to pressure wash and clean hull, finish grinding and epoxy of corrosive spots and seal all the seams up.

Making progress, should go faster once all the tedious work is accomplished
 

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starcraftmike

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Re: corrosion removal

Re: corrosion removal

I found a small stainless steel cup wire wheel at lowes that should do a great job.
 

starcraftmike

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Re: corrosion removal

Re: corrosion removal

So... What methods has everyone used for putting a new transom together?
 

jasoutside

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Re: corrosion removal

Re: corrosion removal

Quick, easy, solid:

1. Laminate two 3/4" pieces of ply together

2. Trace out from the old transom and cut it out

3. Dry fit, drill out for bolts/drains

4. Pull out, sand, ease the edges

5. 3 coats of epoxy (edges get 6)

6. Install, paint


Many variations but that's the basics. You can check out lotta different ways by clicking the "Starcraft Rebuilds" link in my signature.

Have fun!
 

jbcurt00

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Re: corrosion removal

Re: corrosion removal

I think he was asking about the lamination process for 3 sheets of 1/2 (originally, or at least what was there when he pulled it out)

Unless you have @3/4+ sheet of 1/2ply (exterior grade) laying around already, get a sheet of 3/4" ply that is made w/ waterproof glue: Arauco, underlayment, MDO (looks like plywood w/ outer layer that looks like brown grocery bag, NOT that chewed up, glued together sawdust MDF carp) and exterior grade plywood are all commonly used, usually available plywood. Marine grade is a good quality, expensive & not usually readily available product.

Use waterproof glue (PL premium, TiteBond3, Gorilla Glue) & completely cover the plywood face, set the 2 pcs together, clamp/screw/secure pieces so they won't slide around on ya while they dry, set it on a flat level surface to cure.

You can drill a few holes through the side you are not applying the glue to. This will allow air to escape & help insure a complete & total bond between the 2 sheets w/ no voids. You can fill the holes prior to sealing the ply up w/ whatever you plan to use for that. You want to try & maximize screwing & clamping to aid in the bonding, but not so tight as to squeeze out the glue & starve the joint of glue. Jas has good pix & details in all 3 of his builds @ the transom construction & his clamping system:facepalm:

Then jump back to Jas list above....
 

jasoutside

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Re: corrosion removal

Re: corrosion removal

Thanks for getting my back there JB, appreciated:)
 

jbcurt00

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Re: corrosion removal

Re: corrosion removal

Us glass guys have our moments, even on a tin build:). You're very welcome. :cool: Shouldn't you be wrenching on an SN or lumberjacking?
 

starcraftmike

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Re: corrosion removal

Re: corrosion removal

Thanks guys, I am planning on using 3/4" ply for transom and floor.

I can't tell with the old transom but does look to be 3 sheets of 1/2" ply... But after nearly 50 years looks to be one solid one lol so hard telling!

So far even with all the hours and extra work, I am glad to have started this project! Can't wait to join the rest of the starmada on the water.
 
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