First deck recore advice

[Baylinerchuck]

In all of the boats I’ve seen, the stringers and crossmembers are glued and tabbed to the hull. The deck Plywood is encapsulated both sides, then glued to the stringers. The deck is then tabbed to the hull.

That bottom layer that you are getting ready to place a core back into was originally part of the encapsulated deck before the plywood core rotted. That skin was laid in as a single unit with the plywood.

And no, I’ve honestly never heard of anyone removing the core material from a deck. Usually the entire deck is removed which exposes a whole bunch more ugly stuff.....mainly waterlogged foam and rot.

 

[KJM]

" curious if I cut the bottom layer out how would I go about tabbing it in to the hull? Or is the new top layer tabbed into the side walls enough? Sorry for the questions" I wonder if you stuck the bottom layer on the new coosa with thickened resin and then installed it, fiberglass the top and tab that in? Not saying thats great advice, i'm not sure, just thinking out loud. Probably also run a strip of CSM around the edges before installing to help bind it all together and keep water out. I know coosa is waterproof but maybe water could work its way into spaces between the coosa and lower fiberglass and thaw /freeze eventually cause delamination? The lower fiberglass would make a great template to use for cutting the core.

 

[kcassells]

Most DownEasters are decked out like yours. Completely different boat style.

https://downeastboatforum.com/threads/34’-webbers-cove.24043/page-6#lg=_xfUid-2-1600600955&slide=0

The pics will help with recommendations.

 

[tpenfield]

22 posts and all we get is one so-so picture

The boat is a center console (right?) So, the deck is resting on . . . and perhaps even attached to . . . the stringer grid below. (right ?)

It seems like the deck has a top & bottom layer of fiberglass with a wood core ? . . . . and you are exposing the core by removing the top layer of fiberglass (right ?) . This method of repair is somewhat common with sailboats . . . cockpit sole and foredeck areas mostly.

The challenge/risk with this approach is if the bottom layer of fiberglass is not consistent throughout the deck area, then the core will be the 'bottom' layer in some areas. It depends on how well the boat was made . . . you mentioned the construction was only fair, not great. So, you might find some inconsistencies in the bottom layer of fiberglass.

The other comments/questions about transom and stringers are also worth adequate consideration. Make sure you are not seeing only what you want to see.

Also, post some more pictures, as those help 'us' see what you are seeing . . .

 

[nickzlb77]

Thank you for the input. I am very much aware of what could be lurking. I have 3 other boats we use regularly all of which were completely redone (mechanically, electrically and cosmetically). I picked up this solely for the challenge and the peace the work brings me. Im not in a rush. Running a business in New York City these days isnt exactly stress free.

So here is what I am trying to explain. The deck is not sitting on the stringer grid (at least not what you would traditionally picture.

The boat used to be an IO. Between the back of the fuel tank and the engine compartment (no bulkhead between) there is basically a glassed 1x6 (see third picture below) sitting above the stringers and some foam (assume its fastened to the side of the hull but cannot see)

Attached to that are two "stringers' for lack of a better term that support the deck up to where they are cut off before the forward deck (in front of the console and where hatches and anchor locker are) running alongside the fuel tank.

There is an unglassed piece of plywood on each side which fastens (guessing that was the theory?) these deck supports to the stringers. See first and last photo

The foam is a little rough but not damp in the few areas I dug out. And there is no major damage to the stringers in the sections I have checked thus far.

Given the funky construction Im considering building a proper grid for the deck to fasten to off of the main stringers.

There is understandably some play in those supports and it seems they were relying heavily on the top layer of glass to keep the deck up (which is likely why there are so many stress cracks around the deck.

 

[GA_Boater]

Here’s the point. You’re obviously a JO. Kick rocks.

No the rot started from them moving around the Leaning post, the console, moving battery boxes, and not sealing the two dozen or so holes they drilled thru the core.

your attitude sucks. Which means you life probably does. So kick rocks.

as I have more time to investigate further I will and maybe I will find more rot but at the moment my question is about a plan to recore assuming that’s all I need.

the now are hatches, all glass. And aft is the old engine compartment, glass hatches as well.

so all of the remaining core is coming out.

This thread is closed until you lose the attitude.