FIXED!! - 1986 225 hp Evinrude not getting to WOT (again!!!!)

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 16, 2005
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645
Probably smutz in the carbs or fuel pump problem, but here are the symptoms.

previous outing was on 9/2/2017 the day before we sent off youngest child back to college...great day..boat worked as what is the new normal...up on plane in about 4-5 seconds and WOT at 5800 rpm at 48mph.

Today the max rpm I got was 4000 rpm.

Started fine, and idled out of the dock area just fine.

mashed the throttle and it would NOT jump on plane....just leisurely get there. at one point it felt like it was starving for fuel so I change the tank being used to the rear tank( I have been having issue with the front tank with varnish granules clogging the fuel filter.)....Checked the racor fuel filter inlets and they are not clogged)

with the throttle all the way down, just wouldn't get pass 4000 rpm. So I had the wife squeeze the primer bulb, nothing real noticeable...if I added the choke (holding the key in) it would surge a bit higher, but not full to 5800 and wasn't consistent with the length I would hold down the key. Trying to describe the sound would be like this.....rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr WHAAAAAAArrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr rrrrrrrrrWHAAAAAArrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.... .the WHAAA would get up to 4000, and the rrrrr would be about 3600-3800

stopped at the sandbar and let everyone off to roam....Took out the plugs to inspect them and noticed something. All three on the starboard side were my typical black and wet electrodes and insulator. All three on the port side had an, unusual for me, dry dark brown color on the electrode and insulator.

Left a few hours later with the same symptoms, but couldn't get the WHAAA moments with squeezing the primer bulb and pushing in the key.

Got it home and started taking readings.
Compression Test ( throttle Wide Open and plugs in (wouldn't keep starter engaged with no plugs in) and warmed up)
PORT 102,104,110 (top, middle, bottom)
STBD 100,100,100

So we are good there.

Took out the plugs and re-measured the gaps, interesting considering I set them at .040 a while back.
Port .045, .045, .045
STBD .040, .045, .040

Put them all back to .040

tested the voltage from power packs to the coils (the orange wires) They are CDI units and the site states that they should be a minimum of 150v whilst running.
I had at idle
PORT 207, 206, 205
STBD 199, 201, 199

Tomorrow I'll test the stator resistance and voltage, but I think the stator is fine as the volts on the orange wires are above 150V.

The voltage regulator (not in play for ignition) is pretty new and giving the proper re-charge voltage to the battery and proper tach reading.

Magnets under flywheel are still glued in place and haven't moved.

I will try to squeeze in a test tomorrow post re-gap of plugs.


Thoughts?




 
Last edited:

racerone

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Is the boat in the water all the time ??------Or kept on a trailer ?
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 16, 2005
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645
UPDATE:
So I took out all the hi-speed jets through the drain plugs of each bowl and found nothing(no debris)...also the fuel in the bowls was perfect no sign of water.

I did, however, find a hose that comes from the fuel distribution manifold (plastic gizmoe with a bunch of nipples to feed the carbs) that feeds the Port bottom and Port middle carb that was pinched by the air silencer.

pics enclosed....I believe THAT is my culprit...just not sure why the engine worked well on the previous outing on 9/2/2017....we will see next weekend if that was the issue.
Pinched_Hose_annotated.png
Pinched_Hose_annotated_2.png
Pinched_Hose_Closeup.png
 

Brock O

Seaman
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Dec 26, 2014
Messages
60
Pull ya VRO...pull it down and check the diaphragms, easy to dismantle and re-assemble...pending age i bet there phuked.
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 16, 2005
Messages
645
Pull ya VRO...pull it down and check the diaphragms, easy to dismantle and re-assemble...pending age i bet there phuked.
the fuel side diaphragm was replaced this summer...wasn't faulty per se, but the brown flapper wasn't sealing well enough.....the air motor side looked fine then....Our last outing on 9/2/2017 had the new fuel diaphragm and old air motor diaphragm and worked fine.

the only things that look odd to me upon inspection is the 4 plug gaps of .045 instead of .040 and the pinched hose.....

I suspect the pinched hose is the real issue.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
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15,930
That gap was changed in 1990 to .030....always check latest charts as manuals are sometimes not updated. Use the QL77JC4C
 

Fed

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Apr 1, 2010
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Started fine, and idled out of the dock area just fine.
You would have to assume the float bowls were completely full and being controlled by the floats at this point.

mashed the throttle and it would NOT jump on plane
That should not happen with full bowls even if there was a fuel restriction in the hose.

Probably smutz in the carbs
I agree.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
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Apr 3, 2002
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9,612
I would clean the plugs (carb spray, and some wet/dry sandpaper on the contact points), and regap to .030. Replace the line you picture, and see if you get improved operation. If no improvement, do the carbs -- have to be thorough, with disassembly, soaking and some careful poking. Finish with carb spray and let them air dry. Reassemble with carb kits.
 

oldboat1

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But....don't overlook the ignition tests. Use an adjustable open air tester if in the driveway -- best test, as it lets you measure spark intensity. Use of a timing gun works well for the cylinder drop test, as mentioned. Mine is the old fashioned style, but you can get the newer self-contained variety. Just look for flashes (or rather, lack of them.
 

cfauvel

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645
But....don't overlook the ignition tests. Use an adjustable open air tester if in the driveway -- best test, as it lets you measure spark intensity. Use of a timing gun works well for the cylinder drop test, as mentioned. Mine is the old fashioned style, but you can get the newer self-contained variety. Just look for flashes (or rather, lack of them.
I'll be bringing the timing light the next time I go out and problem persists...This way I'll be able to see the flashes at above 3000 rpm

and I'll be cleaning the plugs and re-gapping tomorrow...
 

Faztbullet

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I have seen some people post to use timing light to check intensity of a spark....it will not it just measure intensity just a impulse has went thru pickup and this can sometimes be misleading. But you can even clip it on the pack coil input wire (small org wire to coil) and see it flash also. This is ok test to see pack output on intermittent misses..
 

cfauvel

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What I wouldn't give for an oscilloscope with 6-8 long leads that I could hook up, and run INSIDE the boat, rather than hang off the transom at speed....
 

racerone

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You would lay the timing light on a seat.------Point the light so you can see it from the helm.-----Roar accross the lake and observe the light when motor falters.-----Sort of like a " poor man's " scope !
 

cfauvel

Chief Petty Officer
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Aug 16, 2005
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^^^hopefully the leads are long enough^^^, A timing light is only one lead though :-(

I'm starting to look at some automotive 6-8 channel oscilloscopes that hook up to a laptop....

I really hope that pinched hose was my issue....
 
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