Flooding thru transom when in reverse

xanthras

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 29, 2009
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76
Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

Transom looks good, but from picture one those stringers look a bit on the dark side. If you want this boat to last for the grandkids i would tripple check those.

Not sure about the voids, but i would think a nice layer of peanut butter would help with that issue.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

A notched trowel for tile or concrete to spread the resin PB.

Make sure to leave a 1/4" gap between the plywood transom's edges and the hull, allows for some squeeze out, and you can use the squeeze out as a start for filleting.

Pour in foam can be used to fill the tops of the 'wings'
 

jigngrub

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse


Well, it's like this WoG. I'm very sensitive to fumes and odors, there are perfumes, colognes, and other fragrances the will send me running for cover with a runny nose watery eyes and scratchy throat.

I found the 635 3:1 epoxy resin to be very mild with no respiratory irritation without any kind of mask or respirator working with it indoors or out. I do wear a mask when sanding it though.

This is from the USComposites epoxy FAQs
18. Do I need a respirator when working with epoxy?

Not usually. Should you be working in a poorly ventilated area and the fumes become noticeable we would recommend using one of our high quality charcoal/chemical masks you can view here. We also sell replacement cartridges and filters which will considerably lengthen the lifetime of your mask. Proper eye and skin protection should always be considered.

I will say though that my original statement wasn't for all epoxies, and I probably should have clarified that.

I use a ceramic epoxy for setting anchors in concrete construction at work and it is some nasty stuff, it smells like the strongest cat urine you've ever smelled and you don't have to get very much on you to come home reeking of it at the end of the day.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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25,929
Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

JNG, Some folks for some reason have a HIGH sensitivity to Epoxy. Not me, but some people. I try to let em know it's a possibility. Poly stinks to high heaven but usually no sensitivity.

OP, Have you made certain that the transom, once installed will meet the MFG specs for thickness? Once the Transom is in the Outdrive MFG will have a template to help guide you on drilling the holes and alignment. It is CRITICAL that you get this right.

Transom Dimension Limits

Before beginning the installation, it is the installer’s responsibility
to determine that the boat transom meets
the following requirements:

• Maximum transom thickness: 2-1/4 in. (57 mm)

• Minimum transom thickness: 1-3/4 in. (44 mm)

• Inside transom area must be flat within 1/8 in. (3.17 mm)

• Outside transom area must be flat within 1/16 in. (1.57 mm)

• Inside and outside transom area must be parallel within ? 1/8 in. (3.17 mm)

Send DON S one of our Moderators a PM he is the GURU on I/O installs.
 

73Chrysler105

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 10, 2009
Messages
407
Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

For the pockets in the wings yes you can use some pour in expanding foam but I would also put a drain hole from those through the transom as well.

Seal all holes in the transom with Epoxy. I plan on drilling all the holes needed oversized then completely filling with epoxy and then drilling out the proper sized hole in the center of the epoxy.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

I believe that 73Chrysler105 means Thickened Epoxy and not just Straight Epoxy. ^^^ I also agree that once the transom is tabbed and glassed in, the pour in foam could be used to fill in cavities where needed.
 

73Chrysler105

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Messages
407
Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

I believe the 73Chrysler105 means Thickened Epoxy and not just Straight Epoxy. ^^^ I also agree that once the transom is tabbed and glassed in, the pour in foam could be used to fill in cavities where needed.

WOG yes your correct it will have to be thickened epoxy. Cabosil will work but may be hard on the drill bits to drill back out. You could also use a wood dowel the size of the bolt either wrapped in wax paper or with wax on it to keep the epoxy from sealing to it and center the dowel in the epoxy filled hole if you seal the dowel in with the epoxy though you just drill out the dowel. The main thing to understand is to not have a bare hole to have a barrier of epoxy between the hole and the core of the transom. Epoxy not thickened could be used just to coat the hole as well because it will seep its way into the wood around the hole, then you would just drill the hole the proper size and not over sized.
 

dearmosd

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 15, 2012
Messages
83
Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

i was going to add since you went this far, check your foam and stringers. odds are if your transom was that bad your read runners and stringers are probably bad also. The foam can hold A LOT of water too. Might as well cut as far as you neew towards the bow and until all wood looks good and repair floor/runner/stringer/transom. Other wise looks good, let us know how the finish work turns out.
 

Friscoboater

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Jul 3, 2009
Messages
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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

From that last picture, your stringers look wet too. I had the same problem in my old Glaston and has to cut the stringers back about a foot, and scarf a new one in. Now if it is like my Sea Ray was, the stringers were all bad.
 

SMullenMaine

Cadet
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Sep 6, 2012
Messages
25
Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

I made sure that the new transom was exactly the same thickness as the "good" parts of the old one... 2 1/16 everywhere. Everything appears to be nice & flat and true.

IMG_20121208_132213_962.jpg

I need to drill out the mounting holes... I plan to make a jig to be sure that everything is square... using the original holes in the fiberglass as my template... then coating the holes with (?something?) to waterproof them and test-mounting the gimbal frame.

There are a lot of seals that seem like they should be replaced when putting this back together... what's the best way to make sure I get them all?

Thanks All, Steve
 

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SMullenMaine

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

I like this... it makes sense to me to have the extra barrier of epoxy soaked into the wood of the hole... without the bigger problem of drilling, filling, double-drilling everything....

Does it make sense to cut and drill it all, test fit the gimbal housing... then "paint" it all with epoxy, especially the bolt holes... redrill the holes to give the bolts clearance and then mount it permanently? Is there some kind of grease or silicone compound that I could coat the bolts with to help exclude water?
 

SMullenMaine

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

The stringers actually look really solid! The blackness that you see is from the section of flooring that I cut out to clean up the fillet at the transom. The remaining flooring seems very good.

I was a bit disturbed when I put a flat bar on the foam to pry up the flooring and I squeezed a bunch of water from it... Is there any way to purge the water without removing the foam? There must be a hundred pounds of water in there.

If I take the next big step to remove the flooring, foam & Stringers, do you re-foam this area? As far as I can tell, there is only a small section of rotted flooring just forward of the storage bin... under the driver's feet. The bow section is all fiberglass.... I can't imagine there's any way of replacing any wood under that??
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

ALL wet foam has to come out. It will never dry out. Have you drilled into the stringers to confirm they are dry?
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

Scan thru Frisco's thread, what started as a 2/3rds or less deck replacement w/ the cap in place quickly changed to a full cap off gut...

If the foam is wet, it won't ever dry, and must be removed. As w/ Frisco's, what starts as small isolated rot, can travel quite extensively & compromise unrelated wood structure. Termites got into wet wood & damaged a lot of wood he hadn't planned to replace.
 

tpenfield

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

The problem with the foam once it becomes saturated is that, even if dried out, it will probably not do its job, which is to provide flotation and dampen the hull. You should replace the foam with new pour-in type.
 

1badbrd

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Nov 1, 2007
Messages
40
Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

2 part foam was the easier part of my rebuild. Just leave an escape route for the foam. It was easy a little mess. Made it feel a lot more firm and sound and i feel better it replaced the foam with closed cell foam. The foam i removed had some gaps in corners and when i replaced the foam i know it filled ever gap possible. I think one gallon each part was plenty for me to replace all the foam in both side from driver seat to aft.

I greatly appreciate frisco's posts, i learned a lot and saved thousands. i now i want to find another boat to rehab and do better than the first one i did (got rush.... got deployed)
 

Friscoboater

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

It is possible that the stringers are ok, but when you say the foam is wet, that is not good. The water will sit there and rot from the bottom. You might only have to take out the back quoter if it was rotting from the back forward.

Just make sure yo make a good joint between the stringers and that new transom. That is crucial.
 

SMullenMaine

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Messages
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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

okokok... I'll do the floor too... I know that it is quite rotten forward of the storage locker... I can stick my finger an inch into the plywood that used to be the deck... Drilling, poking, pounding everywhere else seems pretty good. When I reach up under the fiberglass of the bowrider section everything feels slimy and that freaks me out... I think that the boat must have been stored for a while "bow-down" so that this area rotted the worst. It appears that the transom rot was (mostly) caused by a poor choice of materials... OSB.. the entire thing was reduced to confetti... the glue disappeared!

Carpet, ply, epoxy... another $600... but the biggest deal is that my house is for sale and I don't know if I'll ever have such a nice big warm garage!

Thanks for making me do the right thing. :-(

Steve

ps... why do they use wood in fiberglass boats if it makes them junk in 15 years? 500 hours on this boat!!

It is possible that the stringers are ok, but when you say the foam is wet, that is not good. The water will sit there and rot from the bottom. You might only have to take out the back quoter if it was rotting from the back forward.

Just make sure yo make a good joint between the stringers and that new transom. That is crucial.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

Uhhmm, Boats don't turn themselves to junk, Abusive owners do!!!!:rolleyes:

My boat is 50+ years old with the original transom! It's all about maintenance and care.
 

tpenfield

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Re: Flooding thru transom when in reverse

ps... why do they use wood in fiberglass boats if it makes them junk in 15 years? 500 hours on this boat!!

You are not the first to ask that question. . . It comes down to cost and workability of the material. You have to keep an eye on it else 15 years is about what you'll get.
 
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