Floor, stringers, and transom...

mckevin

Cadet
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Messages
19
The floor in the 76 Speedliner (16' tri-hull w/ a 1975 Evinrude 135) has been feeling spongy, but if you ignore something long enough it'll go away, right? Right, it went away...

We were out 4th of July & the battery fell through the floor, probably a sign that I should do something. The first thing was to decide if we WANTED to put the time, money and effort into a 30 year old boat with a 30 y/o engine. They have both been lots of fun for us, and the engine has started with the turn of a key since day one, so we decided to do it. OK, "We" decided that "I" would do it...

Spent a month or so reading, scratching my head, and planning my attack, and am now to the point that I need to ask some questions instead of just winging it.

There is an ongoing web album of the project at http://picasaweb.google.com/mckevin32/BoatProject
From this point on, I would have to ask that you assume you are dealing with someone who doesn't know much about boats, and absolutely nothing about fiberglass. (anyone still with me?)
As you can see, the floor is out, the stringers are about half out, and the foam is all but gone. For the foam I chopped what I could out with a flat blade shovel, and went after the rest tonight with a weed eater, which worked pretty well but used an amazing amount of line! Lessons learned so far, If you are going to use the weedeater method, eye protection is a MUST (ask me how I know).
Anyway...
Is it desirable to leave the fiberglass "walls" that held up the old stringers? Is there a good way to use them in the placement of the new ones? Or will I not get it to stick & seal?

Where the top & bottom halves of the boat meet under the rub rail, the "lips" were stapled together with LOTS of staples. There were (steel) screws through both parts into 1/2" plywood inside the boat, and the rub rail was pop riveted on to both halves.
I don't have a staple gun, and I don't think the rub rail has enough room to bolt them together. How do i (or do I) fasten the parts back together when this is all done (assuming it ever DOES get done)?

Am I correct that douglas fir is the preferred wood for stringers? I don't have ready access to marine plywood, nor any good way to dry ACQ.

Going to pour the transom with Seacast, I know there is some disent about this, but I feel comfortable that I can do it, and I can't say the same about my comfort level with building a wood one yet. Besides, the money is already spent & I need to feel good about my decision ;)

Last, having read through many of the posts of the last several months (especiallly the ones that contained "transom" or "stringer") I have to say that the helpfullness and patience you guys show to the multitudes of strangers who show up here asking the same questions over & over is amazing (shameless sucking-up), and the sole reason that I don't sound like even more of an idiot that I do!

'preciat it!!!
(edit spelling & readability)
 

i386

Captain
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
3,548
Re: Floor, stringers, and transom...

Hey, that looks familliar. I'm pretty much in the same boat you are. I don't have much experience with this either but I wish you luck.

I don't know if you have all the old stringers out yet or not but I have read they should be replaced one at a time to avoid warping/skewing the hull.
 

seven up

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2006
Messages
275
Re: Floor, stringers, and transom...

Kevin,

Douglas Fir is known for being a strong plywood however it doesn't take to well to painting. Used alot in boatbuilding as you already know.

On my project epoxy is the only resin used because it is a wood boat.

Those fiberglass channels would be great to re-use if they can be cleaned up with a sandpaper block or something that fits.

Much to my own surprise I am always sealing and resealing and filling in those plywood edges/endgrain and voids like I want the boat to last another 36 years. I'll be friggin dead by then.

The rubrail is a tough one but can it be removed and re-used...then just re-attach the joint with better fasteners and the plywood inside like the original stuff...a section at a time, though.

You can buy anything..."Taco" makes a load of rubrail.

Hey, have fun !!
 

mckevin

Cadet
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Messages
19
Re: Floor, stringers, and transom...

seven said:
Douglas Fir ... as you already know.

Heee, there you go, already assuming too much! :D

seven said:
The rubrail is a tough one but can it be removed and re-used...then just re-attach the joint with better fasteners and the plywood inside like the original stuff...a section at a time, though.

Sorry, I was unclear.The rubrail came off fine and should rivet back to the hull nicely. I just don't know what to use to replace all those danged staples that fastened the top & bottom "lips" given the limited space inside the rubrail.
 

seven up

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2006
Messages
275
Re: Floor, stringers, and transom...

what to use to replace all those danged staples that fastened the top & bottom "lips"

this sounds like a job for PL Polyurethane...go for the premium...about a case

the difficult part is the most important part and that would be (from my armchair) getting the deck from pic #9 to sit flush to the entire hull when putting it back on and keeping it there for the glue to dry. what, maybe a week.

everythings gotta be clean and dry, right ////// the ratchet straps or a giant 2X4 clamp or two

but then (like my sealing the plywood grain over and over) more reinforcement along the lines of the original materials

stay safe !


this site has some useful info on pl brand caulkings

http://www.simplicityboats.com/


Enjoy
 

walk-on

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 16, 2006
Messages
112
Re: Floor, stringers, and transom...

I am in a project similar to yours and I have just removed my rub rail in hopes of separating the top and bottom halves. Mine was held together with stainless steel screws and I have heard of others that used stainless screws to replace the rivots that were there originally.

My project is on this forum http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi?a=viewthread;fid=26;gtid=1153542 if you care to check it out.

I'm curious though, how did you go about lifting the deck off from the hull once you got the halves apart? I'm kind of scared of that part.

Good luck with it - there's alot of us out here just like you and thanks to the others, we make it work.
 

mckevin

Cadet
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Messages
19
Re: Floor, stringers, and transom...

An A-frame would have been ideal but I don't happen to have one. To lift it off manually would have been 6 people, so I strung 6 ratchet straps to various points & hired a bucket truck to llft it off & set it down out of the way. Picture 9 from my link in the OP shows the straps, but not the lift itself.

95force90 said:
I'm curious though, how did you go about lifting the deck off from the hull once you got the halves apart? I'm kind of scared of that part.
 

WoodDragon

Recruit
Joined
Sep 18, 2006
Messages
4
Re: Floor, stringers, and transom...

When I took the top off of mine it was all hold together
with S/S screws into the plywood stringer.

The top overlapped the bottom a little over 1",
with a 1" ply stringer on the inside of the bottom
the top laps over the outside of the bottom, the
rub rail was put on in the center of this lap,
and the S/S screws went threw all into the ply
spaced 6" apart all the way around.

Wood Dragon
http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi?a=viewthread;fid=26;gtid=1175562
 

alloffroad

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 20, 2007
Messages
172
Re: Floor, stringers, and transom...

I have read here that you can cut the top (cap) off of the stringers, remove the wood/core and fill the void with seacast. It might add a lot of weight though if you are doing the same with the transom.
 
Top