flotation foam

fhhuber

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Anyone ever tried this for the mixed media flotation?

The pink foam cut in slabs to fill MOST of the space and pour in to "glue" it in place and fill the rest of the void.
You would have the low cost pink stuff filling most of the volume and the result (in theory) should give the stiffening effect of all pour-in.

It might mean pour some, stuff in a pink "plank", pour more stuff in, add another pink "plank" ... kind of like layers of cake and frosting. Making it a bit higher labor and taking days instead of just one pour per place to be filled.

Its an idea....

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1 cu-ft of air weighs just what the air weighs (very little) The foam is rated in lb/cu-ft. The per cu-ft displacement is the same... but the weight of the foam "eats" some of that, resulting in less ADDED weight supported..
 
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zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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According to the information you provided 8cuft is sufficient so I will just get the 40cuft kit and between it and the water bottles I should be unsinkable.

Chose whatever floatation you are comfortable with, you are not subject to USCG regulations, since you are not a manufacturer by their standards, and you don't build for sale.

Im not really a fan of foam in anything over a real small craft. I like aerated chambers with limber holes, and redundant pumps, but that's just me ;)
 

fhhuber

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Check your bilge pump rating... if its under 750gph, it won't keep up with the drain plug being forgotten on the average 14 ft jon boat.

Generally your bilge pump is just expected to remove splashing and 250 gph is plenty for a 20 ft boat. 500 will keep up with a pretty decent rainstorm. But you want some margin above the flooding rate of your drain plug being forgotten.

The only time you really notice your bilge pump is when its not keeping up and you're sinking. Then its too late.
 

Grandad

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Anyone ever tried this for the mixed media flotation?

The pink foam cut in slabs to fill MOST of the space and pour in to "glue" it in place and fill the rest of the void.
You would have the low cost pink stuff filling most of the volume and the result (in theory) should give the stiffening effect of all pour-in.

OK, now you're talking. This could be the most practical method, I think. An aluminum boat might be best with mostly rigid foam boards and only a little pour-in. Fiberglass boats would likely require more pour-in, but large portions could be rigid foam segments to reduce costs, yet maximize on water displacement. - Grandad
 

fhhuber

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Note:... I asked if its been tried. I can't think of why it wouldn't work, but someone may have experience with the idea.
 

pontiacfieroguy

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Mar 29, 2016
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Because I don't have a clue what I'm doing and someone else on here told me 2# is all that's needed because the foam isn't structural on my boat (1976 14" basshound trihull). Is more not better?
 

fhhuber

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Heavier is just heavier and more expensive if you don't need the strength.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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The 16# kit is 8 cubic feet of 2# density foam. A 40# kit is 20 cubic feet of 2# foam.

2# density foam is generally sold as a 2# kit (2 pint containers), a 4# kit (2 quart containers), 16# kit (2 gallon containers), and 40# kit (2 buckets)

You need 8 cubic feet, that's a 16# kit, not a 40# kit
 

fhhuber

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The kits come in assorted densities. there is an 8 lb kit that makes 2 cubic ft and an 8 lb kit that makes 1 cubic ft.

The heavier foams are to give greater support if the hull or deck depends on the foam to keep it stiff and/or the deck needs it to support weight.

Just like there is Styrofoam in 1 lb per cubic ft through 6 lb per cubic ft (that I have seen)
 
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