Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

[Cox]

Couple things,

A.) How do I know if my 25 HP, 2 stroke is a 2-cycle or 4-cycle....and what's the difference????

B.) I'm ready to winterize....I figured out how to change the oil in the lower unit and I'll obviously treat the fuel but I'm not nearly familiar enough with engines in general to know where the input is to fog the carb. I honesty couldn't even identify the carb with my own two eyes....sad I know, but I'm looking to learn. I don't have the manual as I bought the motor used but I want to do this the right way so that I don't have issues in the spring. Any help/direction would be appreciated. I can see the spark plugs (4 of them) and I know I need to spray some oil into them and crank the engine a few times to spread out the oil within the cylinders but I don't know where the initial bursts need to go until the engine dies.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

what is the model # of your motor? if you have 4 spark plugs, you do not have a 25 hp.

 

[Cox]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

E25TELEDA....maybe not 4 plugs, I'll have another look but I would swear there are 4.

 

[bowman316]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

there should be a plastic plate on the front of the engine, which has the carbs behind it. You need to take that plate off and spray the fogger into the butterflys of the carbs until the engine stalls. But if you can't find the carbs maybe you should have a mechanic do it.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

also you need to change the lower unit oil, and use new sealing washers.

 

[bowman316]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

wouldn't it make more snese to change to lower unit oil in the spring. Or leave it empty over the winter, and not put the new oil in until the spring?

 

[Vic.S]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

wouldn't it make more snese to change to lower unit oil in the spring

Drain it now to get rid of any water and give yourself the chance of changing the seals if there is. Refill it straightway, or as soon as the seals are renewed, partly to give the protection of the new oil but more importantly so that you do not forget to do so in the spring!


Since no one has answered the question E25TELEDA is a 2 stroke. If it were a 4 stroke you would have an oil sump on the engine with a dipstick. You'd be checking that oil level regularly and changing it now together with a filter. You would also have to be very careful to keep it upright or only lay it down the correct way etc etc. You would not be mixing oil with the gasoline.

Unbelievable that anyone can be running an engine without knowing if its a 2 stroke or a 4.

The number of plugs has no bearing on whether it is a 2 or 4 stroke. Either can have from 1 upwards!

 

[Cox]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

I definitely knew it was a 2-stroke or I wouldn't be mixing oil in my gasoline. No doubt, it's clear to see I'm new to this and certainly NO mechanic seeing as how I can't even identify the flippin carb so yes, bowman I would agree that having it done professionally is probably a good idea for someone like me. Let's just say it isn't in the budget. True....money spent to have it done right is better than spending more in the spring to have the darn thing fixed but believe it or not if I could just see it done there's no doubt in my mind I can duplicate the process without an issue year after year.

No problem changing the oil in the lower unit....thanks for the reminder on the new sealing washers though! When I looked....very briefly and in the dark....I thought there were 4 spark plugs. There's definitely 2, don't know what the heck I was looking at. I appreciate all of the help and suggestions thus far. Thank you.

 

[bowman316]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

I knew nothing about engines when i first bought my boat a year ago, and i learned so much just from trial and error, and watching my mechanic friend do some work on it. If you just don't let urself get intimidated by something that SEEMS hard, most stuff is really not that hard to do.

 

[jasper60103]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

Hey Cox.
Don't get discouraged.
I'm a newbie as well.
I just bought a 25hp Johnson couple weeks back and
picked up an OMC service manual off ebay just last week for $17.50.
Even if you don't plan to service it yourself, the manual will help you
identify the parts of the engine and explain how they work.
For example, there's a section on the carburetor w/pics and how it works.
Hang in there.
jasper

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

Bowman316 -- think about what you just suggested! The engine is being "winterized", meaning the owner expects freezing temperatures. Water in the lower unit will freeze and crack the housing. Fall is the best time to drain and refill. It gets the water out (if there is any) and is a perfect opportunity to check for it so the necessary repairs can be made over the winter. Leaving the lower unit empty is also a bad idea as no lub means the gears are not covered in oil so rust can form.

 

[itsaboattime]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

Cox.......Welcome to iboats!!!

First being a newbie here is to your advantage. The ppl here have a vast wealth of experience in outboard repair and all you have to do is ask.

Some advice to you is: Get a manual for your motor, OMC is preferred.
If you have time this winter, thumb through it, and get yourself familiar with the general works of your outboard.

There is an extensive FAQ section here and most of my questions have been answered there.

At the top of the first page of this section(Johnson & Evinrude outboards) is a post on winterizing you outboard. Follow those instructions and your motor should be in great shape come next spring.

Silvertip is right in that your lower unit should never be dry for an extended period of time. Rust will set in and will cost you more time and money in the long run.

I understand about not being in the budget. Remember that a boat is a hole in the water that you throw money into.
B = bring
O = out
A = another
T = thousand

 

[Cox]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

So I talked to a guy at a local boat supply and service shop today as I was picking up the last few things that I need to winterize and he mentioned a couple of things that were the opposite of what I've read. First, he said that rather than filling up my 6 gal tank and adding stabilizer (as I did yesterday) that I should drain it completely. He said that the bit of condensation that may accumulate in the off-season in an empty tank is much less of a concern than 5 month-old fuel, treated or not. He then said that I could use the fuel in my Trailblazer because the 50:1 mix is so thin it wouldn't harm the engine a bit. Any thoughts on that?

Secondly, he said that as long as I'm using the fogging oil, it will spread throughout the cylinders which eliminates the need to pull out the spark plugs afterwards and give it a couple shots. I've read all over the place that I should do both.

AGAIN....thanks for all the help. These are the last two questions I've got and I'm ready to roll on Sunday.

 

[jasper60103]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

the 50:1 mix is so thin it wouldn't harm the engine a bit. Any thoughts on that?

I accidentally put mixed fuel in old honda loaner car I had when my car was in the shop. The RPMs kinda went up and down when it burned that mixed fuel. I don't know if it done harm or not, but it didn't like it. I immediately took it to the gas station and added some more gas.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

Myself, I'd never burn 50:1 in my fuel injected, computerized, catalytic converter having car. I'd be scared the extra oil would booger up the catalytic converter, plus throw off the sensors for fuel/air mix and such. I'm not a mechanic though so maybe I should keep my mouth shut.

As to the '96 25hp......
I don't live up north, either, but I'd simply change my lower unit oil and if the old oil looked good with no water in it, I'd put the new drain screw washers in and not worry about it. Then I'd fog the outside of the block with a little fogging oil, then get it running in a barrel and fog the carburetor with the carb covers off until it stalled and quit as was said. I WOULD squirt some in the cylinders after taking out the plugs, then reinstall them after oiling the cylinders..... then I'd take it out of the barrel and put it on an engine stand so it stood just like it would sit on the boat. that will let all the water drain out of the midsection and other places so it won't freeze in your motor. It should be ready as far as I know. You might consider taking the fuel line off the carburetor fuel bowl so the fuel will drain out of the carb completely as well.
I also think you'd be wise to get a manual. If you want to see some parts diagrams with numbered labels on them for free, try crowleymarine.com
If you have trouble finding your motor on the online catalog say so and I'll find it for you and post it. there is another site you can do the same thing on but I forget the name of it. Those parts diagrams are handy to me to get familiar with the names and locations of stuff. The manual, however, will pay for itself by keeping you from making stupid mistakes which break parts or even worse, ruin your motor. I also agree you should check out the FAQ's section. There is some real good info there written by experts.
Good luck,
JBJ

 

[itsaboattime]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

JBJ.........I have read several times on here that carbs on "newer" motors should be set-up for the winter "wet". Meaning that the bowels should have fuel in them. Of course the fuel should have some kind of preservative in it (sea foam), to prevent varnishing. I can't seem to find anywhere in my manual where it says that but I know I have read it here more than once.

 

[Randybeall]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

I have to chime in here. Please do not run the premix in your automobile or truck if you have anything built after 1995. The emmisions control system will attempt to compensate for excess unburned hydrocarbons and give you performance issues. If you run enough you will damage to catylists at a price that will remind you of keeping up a boat. If your engine has an egr system it will be fouled with excess carbon, and you may have cold start problems from the incorrect specific gravity of the fuel going through the injectors. Usually the oxygen sensors are not damaged but if they are old they could foul and need to be replaced also. Burn it in your snow blower!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Glad I don't own one of those.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

JBJ.........I have read several times on here that carbs on "newer" motors should be set-up for the winter "wet". Meaning that the bowels should have fuel in them. Of course the fuel should have some kind of preservative in it (sea foam), to prevent varnishing. I can't seem to find anywhere in my manual where it says that but I know I have read it here more than once.

I'm sure you're right, as I have read that, too, and believe it's correct info. Myself, however, I noticed that Cox said he was winterizing for 5 months and I think that's a long time to have fuel in the carb even with stabil. in there and still think it wouldn't be a bad idea to drain it. What's the problem...is there some kind of neoprene seals in there that don't need to get dry for fear of dryrotting?

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

So I talked to a guy at a local boat supply and service shop today as I was picking up the last few things that I need to winterize and he mentioned a couple of things that were the opposite of what I've read. First, he said that rather than filling up my 6 gal tank and adding stabilizer (as I did yesterday) that I should drain it completely. He said that the bit of condensation that may accumulate in the off-season in an empty tank is much less of a concern than 5 month-old fuel, treated or not. He then said that I could use the fuel in my Trailblazer because the 50:1 mix is so thin it wouldn't harm the engine a bit. Any thoughts on that?

Secondly, he said that as long as I'm using the fogging oil, it will spread throughout the cylinders which eliminates the need to pull out the spark plugs afterwards and give it a couple shots. I've read all over the place that I should do both.

AGAIN....thanks for all the help. These are the last two questions I've got and I'm ready to roll on Sunday.

I agree with point one. I do not like old fuel even with stabilizer in it. I would run everything dry and not store the fuel. Also, I always dump my mixed fuel in my vehicle at the end of the season and have never had a problem. I just make sure the tank is almost full then the % of oil in it is so small I have no concern. If you have a concern just dump a small bit every tank. I would not dump it in my 4 stroke snowblower though as then I will get smoked out when running it and usually it's hard enough to start without giving it another reason to hard start!

And for your second point, he's probably right but it does not hurt to put some in the plug holes and it's quick to do on most engines.

 

[Cox]

Re: Fogging my 96 25 HP Evinrude

Thank you to everyone that chimed in on this topic. I hit the water today for last chance to run the boat and catch some fish before winterizing. The fishing was cut short by 25 mph winds with up to 50 mph gusts but I did manage to hang in there for a little over an hour. Only caught 1, but it was a good one. 4.5 lb largemouth to close out my season (until Ice-fishing anyway!).

Everything went off without a hitch and the boat is comfortably resting in the garage until March or April. As Bowman mentioned earlier on, is wasn't very difficult after all. All of the worrying amounted to a waste of time but I sure picked up some helpful tips along the way.