Re: ? for JasonJ (or another bug killin' expert)
I would say get a pro, but if you really want to try to tackle this yourself, you'll have to get dirty. If you have a crawlspace, you have to get down there, and you have to examine the entire perimeter of the foundation where your sillplates/rimjoists meet. You are looking for sawdust, insect parts, spiderwebs with a lot of dead ants in them. You have to pull back the insulation if there is any. If you are lucky enough to actually expose the colony, you need to kill it directly. Doing that, combined with a residual treatment, and the elimination of any carpenter ant colonies within a 300 foot radius of the house should help. The way I do it is locate all interior/exterior colonies and destroy them. Sometimes you never find the colonies. Then I inject Tim-bor though holes drilled under all electrical outlets on all levels on all exterior facing walls. Ants use wiring and plumbing to move around a house. I spray the entire cralwspace, the entire exterior, and all baseboards throughout home. If the problem is not solved after 2-3 weeks I switch to a bait. If the bait proves ineffective I switch back to an alternate chemical that is used as a last resort as it is very expensive and must be used in limited amounts due to EPA regulations.<br /><br />Finding the colony is key, if possible. Sometimes you have to spend hours following ants to see where they are going. Look for ants carrying things, those are the ones going to the colony. Following foraging ants can drive you insane so look for trails and that sort of thing. Think about if you have any moisture problems with the house, past or present. They will be near moisture problems. They also like to infest in the juncture of an addition for some reason (often the roof develops a leak at the point of new meeting old).<br /><br />Once again, Carpenter ants can be very difficult to deal with, and after a lot of time and money on over the counter chem, you could have just got a pro and would have a warranty. Good luck..