force 70 help!

mern

Cadet
Joined
Aug 9, 2009
Messages
28
First things first. Complete newb here. I gave a guy a 1k deposit on a 25' pontoon today with a'95 force 70 outboard. Balance due tommorow. Insured and took the boat out today as agreed for a test. Upon removing the boat from the water the part of the outboard just below the engine cowling was covered in oil, and now sits weeping in my driveway. The oil is black, kinda thick and does not smell of gasoline. I feel that it is coming from a hole in the rearmost part of the outboard just below the engine cowling. I know about the vent and fill holes on the lower unit and this hole is a good 2.5 feet above those screws and on the rearmost portion of the outboard. is this some type of a witness hole or is something here i'm missing? I'm not necessarily trying to get out of the deal, i just want to know if it is an expensive repair before i go on. Sorry for being so clueless, and i thank you in advance for your help
 

mern

Cadet
Joined
Aug 9, 2009
Messages
28
Re: force 70 help!

Also upon removal of the cowling, both it and the engine seem to be reasonably clean and oil free. I seems to be a problem from the engine down. Thanks again
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,754
Re: force 70 help!

Most likely carbon and soot buildup in the midsection.
Not unusual, nothing to panic about.

Do a decarb, switch to synthetic oil, don;t lug or idle the motor all day, and it will be fine.
 

mern

Cadet
Joined
Aug 9, 2009
Messages
28
Re: force 70 help!

So the little ovoid hole below the cowling is suppossed to be open? Reminds me of a motorcycle oil-level sight glass. I'm sorry could you tell me what a decarb is. Thanks for your help.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,754
Re: force 70 help!

The hole on the back, about 6" below the powerhead, is an exhaust relief hole.
Yes, should be open. On older models, it also acted as a water pump indicator. But your motor has a telltale out the side.

Decarb info:
Decarbing is a 2 part process. The first part is preventative, done by using a fuel additive to prevent carbon build up. SeaFoam is one such fuel additive and can be found at most auto parts stores. It also works as a fuel system cleaner and should be used as a preventative maintenance procedure.If Your intent is to REMOVE the existing carbon buildup from the cylinders, heads, and rings, a spray decarb solvent product, such as SeaFoam Deep Creep, Power Tune, or Ring Free, is needed to do the decarb process. Free moving rings are what seals your cylinders and gives you compression. Compressed and stuck rings means loss of compression, broken rings, damaged pistons and heads, and eventually, engine failure.Run engine at fast idle, with engine running and warm, slowly spray liberal amount into each carb. Its gonna smoke up the place. Spray for a couple minutes, now spray a larger amount into the carb(s) until engine chokes out and stops.Remove spark plugs and spray the decarb product liberally into each cylinder, install the spark plugs, let it soak for an hour or more. Start the engine and run at medium throttle, or if at the lake, run it at full throttle. It won't hurt to spray some more through the carbs. Run it for atleast 10 minutes to flush the crud out of your engine. Now remove and clean, or replace the spark plugs. It works well to do the spraying, the night before you go to the lake. This way you can let it soak overnight, and run at full throttle at the lake.Don't do this in front of the garage door or the house, unless you want it covered with greasy black crud.************************************************* *******************

And this was added by DJ, member 5471.""Outboards are probably the most abused engines ever. An incorrectly propped engine is the norm, not the exception. That incorrect propping results in carbon build up. It has nothing to do with lead.Think about it. Some folks dole around at trolling speeds or non-planing speeds for hours. That leads to serious deposit build up. Add oil in the fuel and you get the problem described.Engines that run at high speeds for most of their lives may never have the issue.However, a decarb does NOT hurt anything, except maybe the plugs, and is a good preventive maintenance practice.BTW, the decarb. process has nothing to do with gunked up carburetors.
 

mern

Cadet
Joined
Aug 9, 2009
Messages
28
Re: force 70 help!

Roscoe i would like to take time to thank you for all your help. I took the boat to a local dealer and was told that the mechanic was at lunch. So i took the cowl off the engine. and took a long look. I found and mechanic confirmed two fuel leaks, one quick connect next to the prime bulb had a crack and was leaking, and a major one on a fuel line next to the motor. Due to a less than finger tight worm clamp. Seems oil/fuel mixture was dripping into the lower cowl running down the mid-section of the outboard and the gas was evaporating, leaving a layer of oil all over the rear of the outboard. The boat had only been ran once 3 yrs ago so I picked up some degreaser to clean it with and a new quick disconnect and a new fuel filter. Also new lube for the lower unit. Plan on trimming the fuel lines at the connections and re-installing, checking for leaks everywhere. Seems I was puttin around on the lake with my friends and I riding a hand grenade. Geeeez! Also experienced a couple instances of it stumbling like it wasn't getting fuel (obviously, duh) and having to lift fast idle lever to get it to start. While at the dealer I also purchased a rebuild kit for the carb. Does it sound like i'm on the right track Roscoe? Do you think with what I found that I would also need to do the decarb, or just take the above steps and try it out and see? Once again thanks for all your help!
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,754
Re: force 70 help!

Wow, sounds like you found plenty of small, but important things on the motor.

The carb kit is probably overdue.
And the fuel pump diaphragm is likely getting old also. They didn't hold up very well when they started putting alcohol in our gas.

The stumble could have been caused by an air leak in the fuel line, a sticking float valve, or water in the gas.

A decarb is never a bad idea.
It reduces or removes carbon build up on the rings, so they don't stick, causing a low compression situation; or break, causing engine failure.

Since it is mounted on a pontoon, and may have seen many hours of low rpm operation, you should do a decarb.

Sounds like you are definitely on the right track, and should have that motor running fine in no time.

Happy boating.
 
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