how do i know if its an eaton pump?it is 5 7/8from top to top of valve body 3 inch diamiter 2 wire res fill is on the right side.. valve body is 4 lines facing down..
rritt, i just purchased the seal kit from you.. (shipping to middleboro mass) at l think its you. please ship asap. om anxios to get this thing working thanks again dennis
how do i know if its an eaton pump?it is 5 7/8from top to top of valve body 3 inch diamiter 2 wire res fill is on the right side.. valve body is 4 lines facing down..
Eaton is tall and skinny with all four ports facing down. Ports are relatively evenly spaced all over bottom of manifold. slightly oval on top half with a large round platics nut on wire fitting.
Prestolite has three ports facing to the side
Oildyne has all four ports facing down but they are not directly on the manifold. Instead they are all in a tight cluster on far right. Upon close examination you can see that the distribution block is a separate piece.
1996 75HP is a different system. The cover bolts apply to a three ram 2-stage system used on 85-150HP. Yours is probably a leaking ram. If it was anything else then you should have found it by now.
thanks! Yes, i understand. Finally got the lower bracket bolts(#7) out and the two lower mounting brackets(#10) and the lower cylinder clevis pin(#13) removed.
Now we are having a very difficult time removing the upper cylinder clevis pin. If we can get this removed then we can replace the cylinder assembly which cost ~ $300 if we can find one.
Any tips on removing the UPPER cylinder (#5)clevis pin? Unclipped the directional brackets(not pictured) and are out of the way and have removed the cotter pin(#6). The clevis pin will not come out. Sprayed down w/ crc & aerokroil hoping to break the salt crud. Trying to pound it out towards the cotter pin side(facing rear of boat to the left).
Is there a trick to this. Does not seem to be moving at all when we hit it hard.
This has been challenging to say the least for this non-mechanic. Sorry to jump in this thread but the tilt/trim issue seems to be similar. Thanks SO MUCH!!
Not too familiar with your setup but my guess would be that the SS pin is galvanized into the aluminum swivel. It seems unlikely that ss shaft to ss piston eye would sieze. The white powdery residue that looks like some kind of salt or lime deposit is actually corroded aluminum. It laughs at your normal rust penetrating oils. There is an aluminum lubricant that also softens ALOX when it can reach it. Vinegar makes some difference. Heat is usually the best thing. Aluminum, ALOX, and stainless will expand and contract at different rates which causes the ALOX to crack. Once it cracks you can often begin to wiggle it free.
I think I have a 70-75HP ram if yours is cracked. It might just be the top seals though. If it turns out to be more than seals or if merc. won't sell you the seals that you need then pm me.
Not too familiar with your setup but my guess would be that the SS pin is galvanized into the aluminum swivel. It seems unlikely that ss shaft to ss piston eye would sieze. The white powdery residue that looks like some kind of salt or lime deposit is actually corroded aluminum. It laughs at your normal rust penetrating oils. There is an aluminum lubricant that also softens ALOX when it can reach it. Vinegar makes some difference. Heat is usually the best thing. Aluminum, ALOX, and stainless will expand and contract at different rates which causes the ALOX to crack. Once it cracks you can often begin to wiggle it free.
I think I have a 70-75HP ram if yours is cracked. It might just be the top seals though. If it turns out to be more than seals or if merc. won't sell you the seals that you need then pm me.
Thanks! The ss clevis pin(upper) had a cotter pin that slid thru a steel hole and looked to rest on the flat side(?i think) of the ss pin. You are correct the ss pin is not seized where the piston eye shaft is dangling from it. The ss clevis pin is seized where it goes through the 2 steel eyelets(upper brackets for the tilt piston/cylinder). I do not see where there is any aluminum contact on these parts. Sprayed down heavily yesterday and will get some pb blaster today. We talked of heat(like w/ a portable blow torch?) but kinda scared around all that grease gas etc... How do you use heat? and not get blown up?
Thanks for helping out. I feel all excited being on the verge but still somewhat defeated New to this kind of piddling when I have always paid someone in the past..... I can see where it is exciting when you succeed being half way there.!
The ram/piston/cylinder is very corroded around where the hydraulic lines connect but they might clean up. We talked of installing a new ram/piston/cylinder since we have it all apart.
rritt, i received orings (very quick turn around 2 days, awsome) havent been able to install yet , wife wanted new hardwood floor, finished it last night, so the orings are next on the list. ill let you know. thanks again
rritt, took tilt cylinder off to replace o rings. followed directions, didnt say beware of small ball bearings in bottom of cylinder under the springs under the washer. found the springs in the lawn but no ball bearings any idea what size or part # they are thanks
rritt, took tilt cylinder off to replace o rings. followed directions, didnt say beware of small ball bearings in bottom of cylinder under the springs under the washer. found the springs in the lawn but no ball bearings any idea what size or part # they are thanks
5/32" is the most common size but that includes all the different pumps and all the different rams. I never documented that particular ball bearing so I have no idea. If it was a weird size then I would remember it .. so it should be a 5/32 or 7/32 with an outside chance of 1/8. You should get a really, really, REALLY strong magnet and sweep the grass.
Loose ball bearings on the piston means that you have a metric cap. The debris scraper was not any SAE or Metric standard so it is basically non-replaceable. The piston shaft lower seal was SAE (the chrysler part fits). The tilt head outer seal was metric. I think I still have a bin of those. Send me PM and I'll check.
i really don't know what engine you have and have just been giving generic answers that fit nearly everything. My point being - I don't know what piston you might need. Send some pics of your system to rritt01@yahoo.com and maybe I can tell you how to fix it.
New to this kind of piddling when I have always paid someone in the past..... I can see where it is exciting when you succeed being half way there.!
