force trigger 507y8c 88 50hp

[slx12001]

I'm working on a 1988 50 hp force with prestolite ignition. All checks out well ohms but the trigger on 1 pair starts at .43v and drops to less then .3v while cranking. This is the side without spark. Very strange that it shows 50 ohms like the other side though? The side that fires shows 1.5v dva. Manual says .5v or more. Is it common for the trigger to ohm out good but dva shows voltage drop? Anyway I just want to confirm it's the trigger for sure before I change parts. Also the trigger shows part number f658029 Is their an older part number to widen my search for a used one? Thanks for any help.

 

[Derrick Fronckowiak]

Six12001, before you get wrapped around the axle on the DVA voltage and resistance readings, check this before you spend a dime on ignition component replacement. Pull back the heat shrink insulation on your trigger leads. I had a few that were broken off or hanging on by just a few strands and it caused intermittent misfiring. I bought a new pack first (foolish, stupid, ****-poor troubleshooting on my part) before I realize what my real problem was. If you see ANY terminals that look questionable just replace them (crimp or solder on new ones). The terminals are cheap and easy to replace. that goes for trigger leads, pack leads or any lead with a terminal end on it (don't forget your ground wire terminals too). You want to eliminate poor connections or cold joints before putting any money into replacing your trigger or other components. Please learn from my screw up, and possibly save yourself some money and frustration in the long run.

 

[Jiggz]

Derrick is on the money with the trigger connectors. They do loose connections overtime due to corrosion. Check and clean first and then DVA test again.

 

[slx12001]

Six12001, before you get wrapped around the axle on the DVA voltage and resistance readings, check this before you spend a dime on ignition component replacement. Pull back the heat shrink insulation on your trigger leads. I had a few that were broken off or hanging on by just a few strands and it caused intermittent misfiring. I bought a new pack first (foolish, stupid, ****-poor troubleshooting on my part) before I realize what my real problem was. If you see ANY terminals that look questionable just replace them (crimp or solder on new ones). The terminals are cheap and easy to replace. that goes for trigger leads, pack leads or any lead with a terminal end on it (don't forget your ground wire terminals too). You want to eliminate poor connections or cold joints before putting any money into replacing your trigger or other components. Please learn from my screw up, and possibly save yourself some money and frustration in the long run.

Thanks for the reply. I have already pulled all shrink and checked all connections. My issue is the ohm reading showing good but dva voltage low and dropping while cranking on that side if the trigger. I don't want to purchase a trigger if I don't need to. Anyone ever come across this?

 

[Derrick Fronckowiak]

I believe your DVA voltage needs to be checked while the engine is running (not cranking). Or did you mean while it was running. Jiggz, am I off on that and does it make a difference?

 

[jerryjerry05]

300-888800 is another #

Test the continuity on the trigger wires.
Each pair should show continuity to each wire.

​Usually if it fires at all? it should be good??

​You try changing coils around?
Pull the flywheel? and check the wires? and magnets on the flywheel hub.

CDI ignition has a tech line. I'd contact them.

 

[slx12001]

Figured this one out. Although the wires "looked" good under the shrink I cut all the ends off and put new connectors on from the trigger. All good now. Strange IR was not high with a bad connection but the DVA voltage drop makes sense. The RO was intermittent spark so go figure. Runs great now. Thanks for the replies.