Found my leak - pic attached

[whiskeyRichard]

The water in the bilge was warm, so I figured it was coming from the closed cooling system somewhere but it must have been warm from being in the bilge.

I took the boat to the lake today and found this (pic) while it was sitting on the trailer. I could hear it coming in from the captains chair.

If you look closely, you can see the water coming in right below the raw water tube and right above what I believe is the output shaft of the motor.

Would this indicate a leak in the bellows?

Thanks again,
wR

 

[Bt Doctur]

from here is a main bellow leak

 

[whiskeyRichard]

I figured I would just purchase the 'transom seal kit' and do them all while I am in there.

Hoping to get the kit shipped quick so I can repair it this weekend.

Will I need any special tools? If the gimbal bearing moves well without any play can I skip replacing that?

Thanks,
wR

 

[Bt Doctur]

If you have water in the bellow ,its only a matter of time before it fails also. The grease dosent keep water out of a moving bearing. Use the hinge pin tool or a 1/2 inch allen. May be required to put some high heat on the pin if the Red loc-tite was used

 

[achris]

As there's water in the bellows, you'll want to be checking the unis and the front seal in the drive too.

Chris.......

 

[wahlejim]

To Do List:
1) Bellows, all of them
2) Lower Shift Cable (you are 75% of the way there when you change the rubber, might as well change it out while you have it apart)
3) Examine u-joints
4) Examine Gimbal Bearing (Based on the amount of time it has been exposed, changing is highly recommended)
5) Pressure test outdrive (at a minimum, you are going to be changing the gear lube, the upper seal is designed to keep oil from coming out, not water from going in)
6) Depending on when the last time the raw water pump was serviced, change the impeller out.
7) Verify Engine alignment
8) examine, properly adjust trim sender and trim limit switches, they are coming off to get at the hinge pin anyway.

I find its best to get it all done at once and be done with it. If you are in a colder climate, after all this is done, you can drain the block and lay her up for the winter (even if it is a month or 2 from now). If you are in a warmer climate, all of this work will have to be done eventually. Sacrifice a weekend to not have to do any of this again soon.

 

[achris]

Last piece of advice. Stop using the boat and get the drive off ASAP. The longer you leaving it with water in it, the worse the damage will be.

 

[whiskeyRichard]

great, appreciate all the advice. she'll come apart this weekend. Id rather be on the lake, but I am looking forward to this small project.

I'll have to research on how to verify the engine alignment.

I live in Northern California and I don't mind cool weather, so I still have a month or so of boating left in the season.

Thanks,
wR

 

[whiskeyRichard]

Chris, is the front seal in the drive the same seal as wahlejim is refering to as the upper seal?

Thanks

 

[achris]

Chris, is the front seal in the drive the same seal as wahlejim is refering to as the upper seal?

Thanks

Yep.

The outer surface of the yoke gets wet and starts rusting. That chews up the seal and it starts leaking.

 

[whiskeyRichard]

shoot, seems my drive is old enough to make parts hard, I was hoping there was a 'kit' with all the parts in it for my unit.

anybody have an idea on a source for a 'transom seal kit' (with all the bellows and gimball bearing for a 1980 mercruiser 260? If it makes any difference, my sterndrive SN# is 5528859 which from my research makes it an mc-1.

The people I have talked to at the customer service for iboats told me there was no kit available, but they seemed to not have too much knowledge on the subject.

 

[achris]

Parts still available.Transom seal kit is 30-803097T1

 

[whiskeyRichard]

hmmm, I thought that was it but was told on the phone it was not......thanks, purchased.

life would be far more difficult without the help from this forums.....thanks!!!

wR