Scaaty
Vice Admiral
- Joined
- May 31, 2004
- Messages
- 5,180
Just splashed first time the dock. Ran fine in the drive as water and exhaust, goes out the snout L/U. But would not idle with the L/U in water, and cowling on. (Just some FYI others). Well long to short, split bellows was flooding the motor with water spray. Wondered why the foam in the cowling was wet gave me a clue. So ya know the rest. Now, I searched and found this from before, you.
"That boot can be replace without removing anything but really, it is WAY easier to remove the rear shroud first. Tools needed 3/8 wrench or socket, 7/16 socket and driver, large pliers, crowbar, penetrating oil for the bolts
Remove the six bolts holding the rear shroud then remove the six bolts inside the lower cowling that also hold it. Next, wedge a large screwdriver or small crobar into the gap. There are two roll pins at the bottom that you must use the crowbar to pull out.
Using a pliers remove the circular clamp holding the rubber bellows. Install the new one and instead of the clamp, use an electrical zip tie. It will not crimp or cut the rubber.
Total time if all goes well would be 1/2 hour. If bolts are corroded there will be danger of snapping one or two and more time will be needed.
Thermostat is usually a 130 degree one but cooling water can exceed that temperature significantly.
OK, on this, I'm drawing a blank.."Remove the six bolts holding the rear shroud then remove the six bolts inside the lower cowling that also hold it. Next, wedge a large screwdriver or small crobar into the gap. There are two roll pins at the bottom that you must use the crowbar to pull out"
I took some pix mine (gotta down load in the house, shop Lap don't like my cam so do later) , but looks like 12 bolts mine holding the lower pan to the mid. Zero bolts under. So if I yank all, and (20 years salt mine, but I know the "procedure") then pry the pan up and get to it? That the way?
Also before I start searching new bellows, ya got a source? And I REALLY appreciate you knowledge old Force motors. I still love my
ld girl".
And yes on the twin port mid water and exhaust on temp. I rigged a mechanical thermal heat gauge.(off a 350 Chevy, orig in the intake manifold water temp) that was just off the twin ports. Idle is 140, running 135. Tells me fast if not in that range. 'A problem"
Anyway thanks Frank, any help. And damn right, heavy duty "wire ties"...work way better than that PAS spring clamp. And much easier to do, and easy off you. Just a wire cutter, and off. Thanks again Frank...more later..Robby
"That boot can be replace without removing anything but really, it is WAY easier to remove the rear shroud first. Tools needed 3/8 wrench or socket, 7/16 socket and driver, large pliers, crowbar, penetrating oil for the bolts
Remove the six bolts holding the rear shroud then remove the six bolts inside the lower cowling that also hold it. Next, wedge a large screwdriver or small crobar into the gap. There are two roll pins at the bottom that you must use the crowbar to pull out.
Using a pliers remove the circular clamp holding the rubber bellows. Install the new one and instead of the clamp, use an electrical zip tie. It will not crimp or cut the rubber.
Total time if all goes well would be 1/2 hour. If bolts are corroded there will be danger of snapping one or two and more time will be needed.
Thermostat is usually a 130 degree one but cooling water can exceed that temperature significantly.
OK, on this, I'm drawing a blank.."Remove the six bolts holding the rear shroud then remove the six bolts inside the lower cowling that also hold it. Next, wedge a large screwdriver or small crobar into the gap. There are two roll pins at the bottom that you must use the crowbar to pull out"
I took some pix mine (gotta down load in the house, shop Lap don't like my cam so do later) , but looks like 12 bolts mine holding the lower pan to the mid. Zero bolts under. So if I yank all, and (20 years salt mine, but I know the "procedure") then pry the pan up and get to it? That the way?
Also before I start searching new bellows, ya got a source? And I REALLY appreciate you knowledge old Force motors. I still love my
ld girl".And yes on the twin port mid water and exhaust on temp. I rigged a mechanical thermal heat gauge.(off a 350 Chevy, orig in the intake manifold water temp) that was just off the twin ports. Idle is 140, running 135. Tells me fast if not in that range. 'A problem"
Anyway thanks Frank, any help. And damn right, heavy duty "wire ties"...work way better than that PAS spring clamp. And much easier to do, and easy off you. Just a wire cutter, and off. Thanks again Frank...more later..Robby
