freeing up the clamping screws

[noppy]

hi,
dunno what the proper name is but the screw that tighten to the transom, to hold the engine on. i purchased and engine and found them to be seized solid i have tried heating them, and a ridiculous amount of wd40, but still nothing is there anything else i can try?

cheers Gav

 

[External Combustion]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

PB Blaster, Kroil and brake fluid are other popular fluids. If you have a few days, submerge the clamp in any citric fruit juice. For faster results any sharp vibration will help. I have used my air hammer on the end of bolts with a piece of aluminum between the bolt and the hammer to take the deformation.

Lots of patience needed.

Good luck.

 

[marine4003]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

PB Blaster and alot of patience, WD-40 is short for Water Displacement Formula 40,not the right thing for freeing dissimilar metals lock, (S.S. & Aluminum ) and don't use heat..fiberglass over wood doesn't like alot of heat. If push comes to shove i cut locked bolts off with a 4" grinder,cut it as flush as possible to the plate..drill out remaining bolt head...push thru..when replacing,i use a Nylon washer against the aluminum , then a stainless steel washer..then lock washer...then nylon lock nut.

 

[thurps]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

Usually the FIRST thing to try is distilled water. Best solvent.

 

[SnappingTurtle]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

If you want to try what my Grand Dad always used (it often works, and is cheap), try vinegar & lemon juice. As External Combustion said, let it soak a few days if you have time.

 

[noppy]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

thanks for the replies i shouldve said its not actually on the boat, ummm i shall try the citric fruit juice or vinegar tomo, im also taking the carb apart for a cleaning, fun stuff

cheers

 

[Boatist]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

I just went thru the same thing on my kicker motor. I had a lock that I use to make it harder to steal and
also fasten two saftey cables to that froze up last year so did not take the motor off like i normally do.

Well this year I cut the lock off but both bolts were froze and would not move at all.
I started with liquid Wrench, then tried PB Blaster every day for a week but had not luck.
I did not want to brake the weak handels so did not put too much pressure on them each day.

Day I decided to work on until fixed I started by useing vice grips right up near the handel and one side.
First side came loose right away so I could at least move it.

The second side still could not get loose.
Vice grips had torn up the threads near the handle so I tried a 7/16 open end wrench
which would not go on until I filed a couple of tread down and hammered it on tight.
At that point also got that side loose but still did not want to turn freely.

again I tried liquid Wrench and PB blaster and did not make much difference.

Finally I tried some 3 in 1 brand Silicon spray with teflon that I got from home depot and it made a big difference.

After I got it freed up I cleaned all the threads with a wire brush and put some antisize on all the threads.
Screwed it back and forth several time then once more used the 3 in 1 Silicon spray with teflon.

If it not on the boat then if you have a impact wrench and a socket that will
get a grip on the handle use that in both dirrections.
Inpact wrenches work very well at freeing up stuck or corroded bolts.

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

Just get an impact gun and be done with it. If that don't get it a nut splitter will. Distilled water? man I love all the home remedies but you relly just need to bust them bolts off, sawzall or whatever.

 

[marine4003]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

Just get an impact gun and be done with it. If that don't get it a nut splitter will. Distilled water? man I love all the home remedies but you relly just need to bust them bolts off, sawzall or whatever.

I see im not the only one with limited patience!!!
Not too good at that wait thing.

 

[SnappingTurtle]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

Just get an impact gun and be done with it. If that don't get it a nut splitter will. Distilled water? man I love all the home remedies but you relly just need to bust them bolts off, sawzall or whatever.

I might be wrong, but I was under the assumption he was talking about the two bolts with plastic handles that tighten the motor to the transom (see attached pic).

I would think you would use the method that caused the least damage to the motor mount itself. Not the method that tore it up to the point of it having to be replaced. This is a steel bolt one one side and aluminum threads on the other.

There is no need to destroy the entire mount, just to remove the bolts. In the end with the brutal methods, you accomplished your goal of removing the bolts, but destroyed the original function of the piece itself.

Dynamite would probably work too, and it would be really fast, but ...

Like I said, I might have misunderstood the original question.

 

[SnappingTurtle]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

Here is his motor, I don't think speed of removal is a important issue at this moment.

P.S. Cool super seven in the garage Noppy. Is it another project of yours?

 

[a70eliminator]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

Ah, I see now, I was thinking bolts through transom rigid mount, this is different, I think more finesse, heat the screw threads quick and hot get a little wiggle out of it and your there, I believe those threads have lots of clearance like a bench vise, shouldn't be too difficult.
Ok i know what your thinking--why heat up the bolt threads and expand it even tighter, only because I would be too afraid to put too much heat to that pot metal or aluminum whatever it is, but if you heat the bolt cherry and then let it cool the thing just mighnt give it up.

 

[noppy]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

well today i took the carb to bits cleaned it all, then tried starting again using a strobe light to test plugs for spark. no spark then after a few mins i disconnected the stop switch now we have a spark on one plug (both plugs are brand new. do i need a new lead? are they just universal leads or do i need a specific one? i shouldve taken some more pics now the engine leg has no paint on it apart from a little bit of black on the extension bit which couldnt be bothered to take off as it was too hot, im going to check the points tomo or the next day, but the main job tomo is starting the seats.

i may take some pics of the inside to show u wat iv done as uve only seen it with the inside ripped out

this is for you snapping turtle, its my bro's seven replica he built it himself and its finished

 

[noppy]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

and before anyone says yeh i know he still needs to get alloys

 

[SnappingTurtle]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

OH that is sweet. I knew I saw a “Seven” in there winking at me!

She is a pretty little thing even without mag's. Go for Minilites, keep it true to tradition.

I have a friend running a Cosworth twin cam Ford in his. He had a really bad motorcycle accident and it was his rehabilitation project. What a blast to drive! What kind of heart beats in your brothers?

 

[noppy]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

its only a 1.6 bog standard, but in the relatively near future hes putting either twin webbers in or putting motorbike carbs in, its an absolute rocket with a 1.6 id be scared with a cosworth.

 

[SnappingTurtle]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

its only a 1.6 bog standard, but in the relatively near future hes putting either twin webbers in or putting motorbike carbs in, its an absolute rocket with a 1.6 id be scared with a cosworth.

With it's present gearing, it will hit 260kmh (thats about 155mph, for the American readers) on the N?rburgring (a closed road track in Germany, open to the public) straightaways!

 

[SnappingTurtle]

Re: freeing up the clamping screws

One more “seven” post and then back to boats. Check out these two vids, they are of a “Seven” running a custom built Hartley Enterprises Hayabusa V8 motor. It is two Hayabusa 4 cylinder motorcycle motors combined into one V8.

http://www.hartleyenterprises.citymax.com/f/20to85.mpg
http://www.hartleyenterprises.citymax.com/f/neighborhooddrive.mpg

I would like to someday use one of these motors in a small boat.

It sounds soooo sweet! Kind of like a outboard on steroids.
http://www.h1v8.com/f/h1.mpg

SPECIFICATIONS:
75 degree odd fire V8
2.8 LITER, 170 cu. in. displacement
84mm Bore X 63mm Stroke
4 cams, 32 valves via internal silent chain
530mm wide x 485mm long x 530mm high
400HP @ 10,000 rpm with stock street cams
245 ft-lbs torque @ 7500 rpm
200 lbs engine weight
Billet nitrided steel 180 degree crank
4340 Carrillo H-beam rods
Billet 6061-T6 aluminum crankcase
Dry sump oil system with 4 stage pump
7.25" or 5.5" Twin disc clutch
DTA S80 full sequential ECU
Unique cylinder offset and cam drive arrangement yields a compact design- Patented