Freshwater Boat to Saltwater

[tablerockboater]

We are going to bring a used fiberglass Hurricane deckboat that has always been in freshwater to Englewood, FL/Lemon Bay. It will be kept in the water for 5 months.

Do we need to bottom paint it, and what else should we do?

Thanks.

 

[tpenfield]

Bottom paint (anti-fouling bottom paint) Outboard engine or sterndrive?

If sterndrive (I/O) then good anodes for salt water.

 

[Chris1956]

Use a good multi season ablative antifouling paint on the fiberglass. Boats can still have wax on their hulls after several years of use, so a primer for the A-F paint is a good idea. Big chunks of paint fall off on those boats that still had wax on the hull and were not primed.

On a related note. Make sure the steering rod, propshaft and motor's grease fittings are greased well before launch and after pulling the boat. You will hate yourself, if the steering swivel on the motor corrodes, and steering becomes difficult or worse. Spray the powerhead with some anti corrosion stuff, before and after launch, as well.

When the boat is moored, you will want the tilt the outboard motor out of the water if possible. If sterndrive, you will also need some antifouling paint for the outdrive. Aluminum uses special antifouling paint, w/o a copper component.

After pulling the boat, flush the motor with freshwater. My neighbor's deckboat had a stuck thermostat, after not being flushed. Of course, he didn't find that out until after he had the waterpump rebuilt, and it didn't help the overheating issue.

 

[drewm3i]

Do not wet slip it in salt for 5 months! Doing so would require an epoxy barrier coat, bottom paint, outdrive/outboard antiquing paint, fresh anodes, and some sort of device to flush the motor after use. You're much better off renting a lift or dry rack.

 

[tank1949]

We are going to bring a used fiberglass Hurricane deckboat that has always been in freshwater to Englewood, FL/Lemon Bay. It will be kept in the water for 5 months.

Do we need to bottom paint it, and what else should we do?

Thanks.

STORE IT DRY, IF YOU CAN!!!!!

 

[tablerockboater]

Thank so far.

Outboard, Tohatsu 115.

It has two anodes, a bar at the bottom of the transom bracket and a trim tab. I've checked at my normal source, and they don't have aluminum ones like are preferred now in Salt. A lot of supplier still are stuck on zinc.

The fiberglass boat is my wife's idea, to keep it in the canal to make boating easier. But, then, she did the googling that prompted this thread. My plan would be to trailer it one season and get a lift built in the canal adjacent to our back yard.

I tried to contact Hurricane, and they channeled it to a nearby dealer. All that has done is gotten promotional emails from that dealer, not answering my question.

After our first pontoon toons succumbed to galvanic corrosion, We have been trailing (only a mile to the ramp) with the replacement pontoon for two Winters now, and I've been flushing with ear muffs and hosing it down good after. Trailer, too. Plus annual replacement of anodes, which I added a couple extra.

 

[tablerockboater]

While I'm at it, how many of you saltwater boaters still use zinc anodes and how many have switched to aluminum?

 

[tablerockboater]

I tried to contact Hurricane, and they channeled it to a nearby dealer. All that has done is gotten promotional emails from that dealer, not answering my question.

Now that someone at the dealership has answered, and said it needs bottom paint unless it's going to be kept on a lift, any advice on getting that done in the Port Charlotte/Englewood/Venice area? 19-foot Hurricane FunDeck.

Any thoughts on who, where, and how much?

My wife thanks you.

 

[flashback]

Of course the dealership would answer your inquiry about bottom paint, ask him how much and you'll know why he answered.
Talk to a few neighbors and find what paint works in your area then paint it yourself.

 

[drewm3i]

While I'm at it, how many of you saltwater boaters still use zinc anodes and how many have switched to aluminum?

Aluminum is the best material for anodes, period.

 

[tablerockboater]

Of course the dealership would answer your inquiry about bottom paint, ask him how much and you'll know why he answered.
Talk to a few neighbors and find what paint works in your area then paint it yourself.

To give the dealer/salesman a bit of credit, he said bottom paint isn't necessary if we keep the boat on a lift.

I have a marine handyman I can ask, but when I mentioned I switched to aluminum anodes a couple years ago, he was clueless. Of course, I don't think he knows what Google is and certainly doesn't have email. When I mentioned the Navy testing aluminum alloys, and switching, well . . .

It was hard two years ago to find aluminum for my very-common Merc outboards, and Tohatsu doesn't carry any aluminum ones.

 

[tpenfield]

Outboards do not (should not) live in the water, so it may not be surprising that you would not find aluminum anodes for it. If you can get Zinc, then fine. Just don't use magnesium. Be sure to tilt the outboard up out of the water when not in use.

Sterndrive boats that live in the salt water NEED aluminum anodes and quite often.

As for bottom painting, a first time painting will want barrier coat (Interlux Interprotect 2000) and then 2-3 coats of anti-fouling paint. If you are handy, you could do this work yourself. I have a painting crew every year, and for the mere price of a few beers, the painting is done.

 

[jlh3rd]

Thank so far.

Outboard, Tohatsu 115.

It has two anodes, a bar at the bottom of the transom bracket and a trim tab. I've checked at my normal source, and they don't have aluminum ones like are preferred now in Salt. A lot of supplier still are stuck on zinc.

The fiberglass boat is my wife's idea, to keep it in the canal to make boating easier. But, then, she did the googling that prompted this thread. My plan would be to trailer it one season and get a lift built in the canal adjacent to our back yard.

I tried to contact Hurricane, and they channeled it to a nearby dealer. All that has done is gotten promotional emails from that dealer, not answering my question.

After our first pontoon toons succumbed to galvanic corrosion, We have been trailing (only a mile to the ramp) with the replacement pontoon for two Winters now, and I've been flushing with ear muffs and hosing it down good after. Trailer, too. Plus annual replacement of anodes, which I added a couple extra.

there are a lot of aluminum marine anodes on amazon. A lot. Tohatsu doesn't come up specifically but with all the various shapes and sizes you might find some that would work.
Got mine there for my toons.
Speaking of toons, I'm curious what "succumbed" for your pontoons meant.
what happened specifically and what, if anything, could have been done to stop it.
I'm attempting a brackish water marina again.....if I can get my toons properly painted...for 2024...
not wanting to hijack the thread...

 

[tank1949]

Outboards do not (should not) live in the water, so it may not be surprising that you would not find aluminum anodes for it. If you can get Zinc, then fine. Just don't use magnesium. Be sure to tilt the outboard up out of the water when not in use.

Sterndrive boats that live in the salt water NEED aluminum anodes and quite often.

As for bottom painting, a first time painting will want barrier coat (Interlux Interprotect 2000) and then 2-3 coats of anti-fouling paint. If you are handy, you could do this work yourself. I have a painting crew every year, and for the mere price of a few beers, the painting is done.

Living in NW Florida since 1959 and having owner 1 OMC and 3 MC I/Os and with countless friends who owned I/Os, we learned not to store them wet in salt water. Pay extra for a lift or trailer them. Maybe this area is cursed, or paints and anodes have improved dramatically. However, I seldom see an I/O stored in a saltwater slip. Lots on inboards and some OBs... It seems the powering of massive OBs have become a status symbol. Hum...

 

[Scott Danforth]

even outboards stored in wet slips will eventually dissolve. I agree, get a rack or a lift. not just for corrosion, however also for barnacles.

you can do a bottom paint job yourself. remember to fully sand the bottom prior to the barrier coat (2-3 applications), then 3-4 good applications of bottom paint

 

[KJM]

While I'm at it, how many of you saltwater boaters still use zinc anodes and how many have switched to aluminum?

Mine are zinc in salt water, but I trailer my boat. Zinc is probably fine as long as you replace them when needed. Don't forget that your motor likely has internal anodes as well as the two you mentioned.

 

[tablerockboater]

Speaking of toons, I'm curious what "succumbed" for your pontoons meant.
what happened specifically and what, if anything, could have been done to stop it.

• Apr 25, 2021

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• #8

If anyone is still interested, I am one who has a leaky toon thread, and who prompted the Leaky Toon article in BoatUS magazine, if anyone saw that. One of our tubes pitted from galvanic corrosion, which we discovered when the pontoon was listed to starboard, the rear of the toon sitting on the bottom of the canal.

I managed to raise it enough with a davit to be able to motor to the nearest ramp and trailer the pontoon.

I managed to get it on blocks high enough to get the toons off the bunks for inspection. When I saw all the little pinholes, that made my mind up, and I "salvaged" the boat.

I have researched and pursued saltwater galvanic corrosion of pontoon log with technical experts, like at BoatUS, and boat manufacturers, and have not convinced myself that it can be prevented, especially if you intend to moor the pontoon in saltwater. So, I have resisted my wife's concerted efforts to get me to buy another one.
- - - - - - -
The toons were painted, so what could have been to stop it is to just trailer it to the nearby ramps, take it out after every cruise, hose it down, flush it with freshwater, etc,, like I've been doing with the toon that replace it.

 

[tablerockboater]

Mine are zinc in salt water, but I trailer my boat. Zinc is probably fine as long as you replace them when needed. Don't forget that your motor likely has internal anodes as well as the two you mentioned.

Good point, and I've seen that when anode shopping online.

 

[tablerockboater]

Living in NW Florida since 1959 and having owner 1 OMC and 3 MC I/Os and with countless friends who owned I/Os, we learned not to store them wet in salt water. Pay extra for a lift or trailer them. Maybe this area is cursed, or paints and anodes have improved dramatically. However, I seldom see an I/O stored in a saltwater slip. Lots on inboards and some OBs... It seems the powering of massive OBs have become a status symbol. Hum...

A point of confusion is there are a lot of rental pontoons in our area, and they're all just sitting in the water, either in wet slips or alongside a dock. So, the uninformed figure if that's how people in the business do it, it must be OK. I'm sharing this with my wife, and in case she doesn't realize it, I hope to get our canal cleaned up, and a lift put in, if she would just put up with trailering our new-to-us boat until I can get that done

 

[tablerockboater]

A point of confusion is there are a lot of rental pontoons in our area, and they're all just sitting in the water, either in wet slips or alongside a dock. So, the uninformed figure if that's how people in the business do it, it must be OK. I'm sharing this with my wife, and in case she doesn't realize it, I hope to get our canal cleaned up, and a lift put in, if she would just put up with trailering our new-to-us boat until I can get that done

I have an online meeting with Florida DEP about the canal dredging. I started trying to get that done ten years ago!!!!!