Re: From broken to beautiful in 180 days...
ok ok.....enough of this dry dock stuff.......lets get you on the water this weekend bud.
sorry it took me so long to get to this thread....i have the time now....there is a slow down in our area right now.
ok....that damage is simmelar to the big 30 foot regal i just did.
i would use poly for that reapir.......iboater robj and i used epoxy on a surf ski the other weekend and i hate the stuff,,
,,,too long cure time. you have to wait 8 hours between each 10 mins of work !!!!
btw...i highly suggest you bottom paint it while its in dry dock....at 300 bux each time you take it out of the water....now is the time. (you will have to bottom paint the repair area any how.
lets get rolling.
the cloth i suggest is 1708 bi axe...get lots....10 yards by 60 ins if you can....those hulls are thick. you will need the same amount of 1.5 oz of csm.
5 gals of unwaxed poly resin....(this is more than you need but thy sell it cheaper by 5 gals than individual gallons,)
you need a bucket of milled fibers...(the powder kind) and a bucket of 1/4 inch short fiberglass strands.
of course...mekp.
as far as the core....you can repalce it or just leave it out...the glass area you are going to do will be super strong.
lets start from the out side.....get your grinding safety gear on.....grind the area around the hole back till you have got all the de lamination out. the hull will have de laminated bas much as a foot from the actual hole.
when you are grinding.....(24 grit disc on a 4 inch rubber backing pad) grind the area back from the hull....you will see a crack between the layers of fiberglass......this is the de lam....you have to take it out...so grind back till the glass is solid ....this will give you a very large repair area...about twice as large as the hole. after you have ground till you are sure you have got every thing.......grind off the gellcoat till you have a rectangular
area clear to the glass.....at least 8 inches from any repair area...
this is for the final layer of glass.....you dont want to glass over the gellcoat...but glass the glass. :facepalm:
once you have the area ground out, clean with acetone......double check for the de lam by pushing against the hull or by blowing air past the featherd grinding edge (if you have a compressor)
after that is done....go top side and grind out the area around the hole ...grind back as much as 2 feet or as far as you can....grind the gellcoat off the stringer because you are going to glass up the side of the stringer as well...........clean that area with acetone....
this little job will only take an hour......2 at the most.
you are going to need a backing plate to glass over the hole.... i suggest arbourite.....or even wax paper covered cardboard....if you use arbourite....take turtle wax and wax the stuffing out of it...about 3 or 4 times....you want this material to come off the glass after cure....the wax is a release agent.
place the backing plate over the hole.....either from the inside or the out side...it does not matter...but i suggest the out side as the stringer will not get in the way.
now.....lets glass.
take some chopped strand matt....and cut it so it is one inch larger than the hole.....that it...just an inch....mix up some resin at 2% mekp and glass the csm into place and walk away...
let that cure about 2 hours.....
now you have a hard surface to glass to.
if the weight of the csm has caused the backing material to drop...(like a dish) below the exterior of the hull....its a pita...but dont worry about it.
just fill the dish with the peanut butter im going to give you the recipe for at the end of this lay up schedule/instructions....fill it up so its flat on the surface ...(just screed it on with a bondo spreader) let that stuff cure till its hard and most of the heat has gone out of the mix.
cut another 3 pieces of csm patch..each one inch larger than the last and a matching sized 1708. for each csm. (i hope thats not confusing.....3 csm and 3 1708...each layer slightly larger than the last.....dont worry if you start going up the stringer.... (if you are starting to go up the stringer.....cut the 1708 so the weave is legnth wize across the stringer...not up, or it will fray and be a mess.
glass on the 3 layers ...csm....1708...csm...repete with a layer of csm between each knit layer. while that is curing...cut another 3 sets of the stuff just like you did before....this time...2 inches larger...with a matchinf peice of 1708 for each csm.
wait till most of the heat has gone out of the cure of the 3 layers of glass.....and then glass the next 3 layers on....let cure till the heat has gone out of the cure.
cut a 2 large layers of csm with a matching size piece of 1708 .....this large layer should go all the way up the entire stringer and all the way over the area...this is a final layer....make the peices big enough to cover the whole area you have scuffed up with the grinder.....the larger the area .,...the better.
glass that in. and let cure.
remember....this is a hull.....so make sure you use your resin roller on each piece of glass...you dont want any air.....if air is un avoidable.....and you get some.....take your sizzors and cut the glass so the air is out and the glass lays flat again.
ok...im not done yet......gotta run out side...brb
