"Frozen" lower unit drain plug

[twinoak]

Hi folks! I hope one of y'all can help me out. I have an Evinrude 110 V-4, circa 1987, on my FIsher SV 18. I went to drain and replace the lower unit oil and ran into a bit of a snag.<br /><br />The lower drain screw is a stainless steel(SS) Phillips screw w/ a small O-ring. It came out easily enough. The top drain screw looks like it might not be original. It's a slotted screw and doesn't appear to be SS and it's "frozen", really tight.<br /><br />The screwdriver I had wasn't quite large enough to fit the slot so I got a larger screwdriver that has a square shank so I can put an open end wrench on it. The tip of the screwdriver slips off the slot and I don't want to bugger the slot any.<br /><br />Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated! <br /><br />Thanks!<br /><br />Paul Crosby<br />twinoak

 

[rodbolt]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

hello<br /> both of the screws,fill and drain, should be a large slotted. the phillips headed one is to retain the lower driveshaft bearing. buy an impact driver and smack it. dont continue to let it splip or you will end up with a problem. the fill screw is down low abbout where the skeg meets the fwd part of the gearcase.<br /> good luck and any napa store can hook ya up with the impact driver.

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

That lower phillips head screw is not a drain, it retains the lower pinion gear bearing. The top, and bottom drain, and fill screws are the same size. To keep from damageing the screw slot, use a hammer drive impact wrench with the proper bit.

 

[AMD Rules]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

I thought the industry standard was to have a 'slotted' drain screw. Are you postive the philips head screw you removed so easily, was not the shift pivot pin? The drain screw should be located beneath the cylindrical gear housing, near the fron of the lower end.<br /><br />To pursuade the slotted screws to move, try tapping on the end of the screwdriver several times. Also try tightening them a bit, to see if they will budge. Penetrating oil may be another option.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[twinoak]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

Thanks to y'all! I'm off to NAPA ...<br />I put the Phillips back in and located the *correct* (slotted) screws. Both are "frozen" so hopefully the impact wrench will do it!<br /><br />twinoak

 

[mrbarth]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

Hi,<br />had the same problem last week onn an old OMC and got no impact driver with a big enough bit. Went to home depot and bought a 12$ big screwdriver with a square shank and a can of "liquid wrench". Soaked the screw for a night with the "liquid wrench" (thats the name on the spray can).<br /><br />I grinded the tip of the screw driver to the exact size of the slit, than took a wide clamp to press the screw driver onto the screw and it came loose<br />while turning with a wrench.<br />Next step would have been to follow the tip from the boat shop to heat it up, but I was afraid to do more damage.<br /><br />But if you can get a correct impact driver could maybe spare you the work. Good luck

 

[umblecumbuz]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

Or, if possible, get the motor to where a local shop has an air-driven impact wrench. But don't put 'em back in with a wrench! New washers, always.<br /><br />They're often tight, but always come in the end.<br /><br />Ciao

 

[funpilot]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

Just today I helped a neighbor free his drain screws with my large racheting t-handled tool holder with a proper flat head bit in it. Sometimes all that is needed is a little extra torque, something that is almost impossible to generate with a regular screwdriver. Two things I like about the t-handled tool (over putting a wrench on a square shaft of a screwdriver) is it becomes a one handed operation, and you can bear down into the screw, thereby minimizing damage to the slot.<br /><br />good luck,<br />fp

 

[CaptSolo]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

Drain plugs... My mechanic has no trouble getting the drain plugs in and out. We always use the largest screw driver, and simply tap it lightly to loosen and again (after the lube is in) to tighten.<br /><br />Never had a problem with the drain plugs. I run three 250 fichts and have 600 hours average on them<br /><br />I've had a total of 11 Evinrude Johnsons since 1995 - so I'm familiar with a lot of their problems.<br /><br />Hey! Anyone got a clue as to why one of my 2000 year model 250 hp fichts is losing a few hundred rpms at the top end range (i.e., wide open)? The 2 sister engines have almost all their original power and rpm range is good. I still get better than 1 mile to a gallon on this 42 foot Performance at 42 miles per hour - and I'm running three 250's.

 

[CaptSolo]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

Hey! Anyone got a clue as to why one of my late (Nov 2000) 2000 year model 250 hp fichts is losing a few hundred rpms at the top end range (i.e., wide open)? I feel a slight power loss too. This engine is the port side engine and has 610 hours.<br /><br />One person suggested checking the reed valve box, to make sure the screws are not getting loose.<br /><br />Another suggested it might be carbon build up.<br /><br />I've changed the plugs twice and noticeno difference + I recently added fuel injector cleaner to the tank.<br /><br />With the computer we see all cylinders firing right at idle + the fuel injectors check out OK with the computer.<br /><br />Another mechanic writes: The other possibility is the Throttle Position Sensor going bad.<br /><br />I remember a problem with one of these years ago.<br /><br />The 2 sister engines have almost all their original power and rpm range is good. They have 710 hours on starboard and 510 on C/R middle engine. I still get better than 1 mile to a gallon on this 42 foot Performance Yacht (a cigarette hull) at 42 miles per hour - and I'm running three 250's.<br /><br />I don't fool with these - cause if they aint broke and are running right - don't try fixin' is the best mechanic advice you can get.<br />I had two fichts on a Scrabe 34 footer and could go 50 miles on 36 gallons of gas. With the 3 250s I can go 50 miles on 45 gallons of fuel.<br /><br />On Evinrudes carerator engines on the Scrabe I went 50 miles on about 55 gallons. I have fuel meters and use my GPS numbers for very accurate testing of the fuel economy.

 

[Solittle]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

Capt - You need a seperate new post for this.

 

[calm like a bomb]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

Twinoak,<br /><br /> I had the same problem once and even with an impact driver it would not come out. <br /> I ended up taking a different approach and used a large screwdriver and hammer.<br /> Just put the tip of the screwdriver on a steep angle in the slot of the screw (left side)and give it a good whop with the hammer a time or two.Sort of like using a wood chisel.Make sure you go counter clockwise or you will have a mess.<br /> Even if the screw-head is damaged slightly using my "wood chisel" method you can easily replace it for minimal cost,and probably should.<br /> Good luck and let us know if it works out.It should do the trick.

 

[sonoramike]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

been thrashing about trying to work to get that bottom plug off for a few months now, saw this info re:using a screwdriver as a chisel, took about 4 good pops and that screw loosened. finally got my lower unit oil chg'd. good call

 

[spacerust]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

i had tried everything. bigger screwdriver, heat, wrench on the square side, and finally finally used the chisel method. two to three taps and she was free. thank you thank you...

 

[billsnogo]

Re: "Frozen" lower unit drain plug

wow, works great! thanks for the chisel idea