Fuel hose connectors won't latch at Lower Cover.

[cprodave]

On my 1998 8hp E8RECR I can no longer attach Fuel Hose Connector 775640 (#13 on Fuel Tank diagram) to the Fuel Connector Assembly 438793 (#15 on Lower Cover diagram. Problem is the 2 parts won't latch together --they slip apart when Fuel Line is pressurized. Two different Fuel Tanks don't latch/lock to this motor but they do latch/lock to my other motors. On this "problem motor" I noticed the brass pin with 45 degree chamfer (that the Fuel Hose Connector latches to) is about 1/32 to 1/16 shorter on the bad motor compared to my other motors.
This setup DID work for several years. Now it doesn't. Does that brass chamfered pin tend to get pushed into the plastic base with continued use thereby reducing the Effective Length of the pin? Before I buy a new Connector 438793 ($60-70) is there any way to fix the bad part (Ex: file remove 1/16:from plastic base)?

 

[Crosbyman]

take pliers and bend the tab out a weee bit

 

[saltchuckmatt]

I had to replace mine on my 92...but I used a used one of another parts motor I had. There are probably 93 million of those out there because I don't think they fail much. I now now know of two!

 

[cprodave]

Crosbyman, thanks but I tried bending the Tab out a bit already. Didn't work...I may be able to bend it out some more but then this may result in incorrect tension/coupling with my other motors. I will update after I try another bend on the Tab and/or filing the plastic base on opposite part.
Saltchuckmatt, good to know I am not alone on this.
Thanks again guys.

 

[Crosbyman]

I did bend one last year and it worked ok
the distance change resulting from the small modification did not impair the O ring's ability to seal the connection and the clip held OK

 

[cprodave]

Update: I bent the Tab as far as it would go until the Tab interfered with the plastic base of Fuel Hose Connector, thereby preventing latching via a different problem (see first photo). Laying to two parts side-by-side (see second photo although a bit hard to see) I could clearly see that the effective length of the 45 degree pin was definitely too short. So using small ViseGrip (being careful to not damage by clamping too tightly) I pulled out on the Pin. I was surprised that it moved so easily. It only needed to come out a little over 1/16 inch. Now the paired fittings latch perfectly and do not leak under pressure (I also tested my Tank with Connector on another motor. ) I also noted that this Fuel Connector Assembly is made of molded plastic while on my older outboards the analogous part is machined metal. Another reason I favor the older outboards...

 

[Crosbyman]

suggest you clean the junction with carb cleaner then add a couple drops of crazy glue to lock the post in place.

glad you solved it. it is probably was my problem also when I needed to bend the tab a bit to fix it. Cheap stuff from China I guess.

 

[cprodave]

suggest you clean the junction with carb cleaner then add a couple drops of crazy glue to lock the post in place.

glad you solved it. it is probably was my problem also when I needed to bend the tab a bit to fix it. Cheap stuff from China I guess.

Thanks Crosbyman, good idea on the CrazyGlue after cleaning. If the Pin slipped into its Base then that is likely to happen again unless preventive action is taken. Makes me wonder if the factory used some adhesive which eventually dissolved...