Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

cpjxh7

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Hi. Thanks for reading.

First off just want to say that searched around and reviewed other posting before starting a new post. I've reviewed Don S's post on HOW TO: Testing Your Boats Fuel System. Great info Don, thanks. And some other posts and the great information that was provided. Thought I sure had a problem with the search engine!

Here is my situation. I have a 97 Larson SEI 186, 43L GL, Volvo SX. It has an eclectic fuel pump with a Holley 2Bbl Model 2300 carb.

The last couple weeks it has started acting up. No problems initially getting it started or problems when running at any speed. However after shutting it off and sitting for a while it would not start. This happened on about 3 separate occasions on separate days. After a lot of cranking and priming the carburetor the engine would finally start.

The last couple times it happened I pulled the gas line off the fuel pump and noticed there was no gas visible in the line, I sucked on the line and was able to pull gas from the tank. (I know, not a good idea, but what do you do when you a stuck in the middle of the lake?) I reconnected the line it popped right off. So I figured I had problem in the supply side. Clogged screen, anti siphon valve, sucking air, etc. Later that weekend the same thing happened and I again sucked on the fuel line and again was able to pull gas, but this time when I reconnected, it would not start. After being towed to the landing we pulled flame arrester off and could see the carb was dry as a bone. Poured some gas in and would start but die as soon as the gas was burned up. Did this a couple times, same thing. Then I pumped the primer a couple time and it popped off and has run ever since.

I've since run the engine with a vacuum gauge in between the tank and the pump and get a vacuum reading of 3.2 in. of mercury (Hg).

I put a jumper on the fuel pump with the line disconnected from the carb and get a pressure reading of 3.5 lbs. Also verified that fuel pump is pumping gas when the engine is cranking over. Figured this was important because the problem is with starting. Once it running its fine, which to me rules out the oil pressure switch. Right?

Also put a vacuum on the supply line before the pump and it took about 5 in. of mercury (Hg) before it would pull gas from the tank. Not sure how accurate this measurement was because I had the pump about level with the top of the engine on the back of the back seat, which is about foot higher than the fuel pump, not sure if that matters?

I have pulled the floor to get to the gas tank. What a job!!!! I’ve never spent so much time trying to hunt down 14 screws in my life!! No real pattern or anything. Seamed like the just put them were they wanted. I’m definitely going to take measurements before I put them back in, just in case it needs to come out again.

Since I’ve gone to this much effort, I was thinking of replacing the gas line and the anti siphon valve regardless, as long as I’m there anyway. Figure and ounce of prevention… I will also pull the pickup tube and make sure the screen in clean.

So finally… I’m not sure I’ve proven anything through all this. Do I still need to run a vacuum gauge between the carb and the fuel pump and run under a load to rule out a fuel supply problem or can I assume the problem is in the carburetor? I did not do this as I don’t have the fittings yet, but will get them if needed. The fuel filter/water separator is new this year and I also drained and reinstalled it. The screen on the carb was clean as a whistle.

Sorry for the long story. And for those that made it through, thanks in advance for your help!

John.
 

Don S

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

The last couple weeks it has started acting up. No problems initially getting it started, or problems when running at any speed. However after shutting it off and sitting for a while it would separate start. This separate on 3 seperate occasions on seperate days. .

Don't have a clue what you mean by Separate starts. Please explain, or reword.

After a carburetor of cranking and priming the carberator the engine would finally start

That one missed by a mile also.

But I am gathering that sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't.
Have you checked the fuel pump relay for corroded connections, maybe intermittent relay. Maybe a loose electical connection on the fuel pump
 

cpjxh7

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

Sorry for the confusion Don. Man your fast!

I used the spell check option and it really hosed up my post. I've edited it so it should be more readable.

Connections look fine. No corrison and nothing is loose. I can wiggle the wires around the fuel pump when the engine is running and it doesn’t miss a beat.

The relay itself is sealed (goop all over the bottom) so I can't crack it open and see if the points are pitted or anyting. Suppose this is a saftey feature. A new one is ony $15 bucks, Should I replace it to rule it out?
 

Reel Poor

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

Is the fuel pump running when your cranking the engine under these failing conditions? You should be able to hear or feel the pump running with an assistant cranking the engine.

The guages should be installed (vaccum guage between tank and pump) (pressure guage between pump and carburator) so they can be monitored during failing conditions.
 

Don S

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

What you need to do is hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel pump and watch it while the engine is cranking.
If no pressure, you need to check the #85 terminal on the relay and see if power is getting to the relay when the engine is cranking. If there is no power to the #85 terminal while cranking, it may have a bad diode in the orange wire going to that terminal.
Volvo doesn't use oil pressure switches, they use diodes in the wires.
You need to have a schematic to follow and understand it, but it's a lot more reliable than the oil pressure switch method.
 

cpjxh7

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

Would a bad diode or bad relay cause an intermittent problem? No matter what I do on the trailer I can not get the problem to happen again. That’s a surprise!

I have not checked the pressure with the engine cranking, but did verify that the pump is running and it is pumping fuel when cranking. I checked the pressure by putting a jumper on the fuel pump and get a pressure reading of 3.5 lbs. I will try this again while cranking the engine.

When hooking up the pressure gauge between the pump and the carb do you make a hard line with a “T” and all the necessary fittings, or is one made of 5/8” rubber and clear gas line sufficient for temporary diagnostics? As stated, I would not splice the existing hard line, I would get gas line fittings for the pump and carb with hose nipples similar to what is on the inlet side of the fuel pump.

I take it from your response that the #85 terminal is the one with orange wire leading into it. Correct?

Guess what I will need to do is take all the tools in the boat and go out on the lake to be ready to diagnose when/if the problem happens again.

Is there a good place to find the schematics on the web?

Thanks for you help!

John
 

Don S

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

For specific answers, I would need to know what engine model number or even the serial number of your engine is. While you may have a 97 boat, that doesn't make the engine a 97. Could be a 96 or even a 95. That's not uncommon at all.

Volvo Engine ID
 

bjcsc

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

I had the same fun hunting down the randomly spaced screws in the floor. Must be a Larson thing...Although you should really try to get the factory manuals, if your engine is a '97 "LK" model, the following comes from the Fuel System manual p/n 7797363-4 and will apply.

(manual photos removed to save space)
 

cpjxh7

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

Thanks for the help guys!

don s - Thanks for the link! My engine code is 4.3GLPLKD, so LK means 1996 - 1997. Correct? The serial number is 4110148707.

bjcsc - thanks for posting the manual. I have printed it so feel free to remove it. That will help a lot. Yes I will need to get a manual, but this helps a lot for now.

Thanks!
 

goodlife

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

cpjxh7 said:
Thanks for the help guys!

don s - Thanks for the link! My engine code is 4.3GLPLKD, so LK means 1996 - 1997. Correct? The serial number is 4110148707.

bjcsc - thanks for posting the manual. I have printed it so feel free to remove it. That will help a lot. Yes I will need to get a manual, but this helps a lot for now.

Thanks!
 

goodlife

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

goodlife said:
cpjxh7 said:
Thanks for the help guys!

don s - Thanks for the link! My engine code is 4.3GLPLKD, so LK means 1996 - 1997. Correct? The serial number is 4110148707.

bjcsc - thanks for posting the manual. I have printed it so feel free to remove it. That will help a lot. Yes I will need to get a manual, but this helps a lot for now.

Thanks!

had the same thing happen on 94 volvo 4.3gl. dont let the goop on relay fool you . my connections all looked good at the relay but i could wiggle wires and hear fuel pump slowdown and speedup. was goop on connections all along. listen to these guys on this board for they know thier stuff.:devil:
 

cpjxh7

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

The goop I'm referring to is the clean almost like a silicone covering that seals the underside of the relay. This is the way it was made. I'm guessing this is a safety feature to keep the contact points inside from throwing a spark and igniting any fuel that may have leaked or vapors that have accumulated.

The contacts are clean and all connections are in good shape. No loose wires. Pump does not change when the wires are wiggled.


Here is another question:
I want to pull the pickup line and check the screen in the tank. What I have is a plastic tank with a collar of some sort, then a 90 degree elbow screwed into it. Is there any chance of dropping the pickup line into the tank when unscrewing the elbow/anti siphon valve?

Thanks again!
 

Don S

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

The LK gave me all the information I needed.

The goop I'm referring to is the clean almost like a silicone covering that seals the underside of the relay. This is the way it was made. I'm guessing this is a safety feature to keep the contact points inside from throwing a spark and igniting any fuel that may have leaked or vapors that have accumulated.

That is part of the relay. They are all sealed like that, and are not repairable. IF a relay is bad, replace it.

For a pressure gauge, you need a tee with hose and fittings for your pump and carb, along with a connection for the gauge.

When I have to check a fuel problem like yours, I stick a new relay in and jump the pump directly to the battery (I have a harness I made up for that) so I can check if the relay is bad and see if the pump itself is good in less than 2 minutes.
When you pull the start relay out of the connector, look at the blades. If any are corroded, that's a possible problem in the connector also. if they are clean, it could very well be the relay itself is intermittent. A diode is either good or bad and not intermittent. Pumps are not usually intermittent.
I think you are going to need the oem manuals for testing the system when it doesn't work.
 

cpjxh7

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

Just to clarify, my post on the "Goop" above was meant in response to 'goodlife's" post. I do not have any questions about it.

Don S -- is there something different in the oem manuals than what "bjcsc" posted? He posted pages 57 - 62 of the Fuel System manual p/n 7797363-4 titled Trouble Shooting Electric Pump Fuel System which include how to test the relay and an electric fuel pump circuit diagram.

Anyone have feedback on my questions about the pickup line in the tank from a couple posts back?

I will order the oem manuals, but can't get for a week or so. I'm trying to get on the water this weekend as we are expecting highs near 100 all weekend in Minnesota! Summers here! Just like the song -- Redneck Yaught Club!

Thanks again everyone for all the help!

John
 

bjcsc

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

cpjxh7 said:
I will order the oem manuals, but can't get for a week or so.

John

The "Engine Components" manual is p/n 7797361-8

The "Electrical and Ignition" manual is p/n 7797362-6

The "SX and DP-S Sterndrives and Transom Shield" manual is p/n 7797367-5
 

Don S

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

Don S -- is there something different in the oem manuals than what "bjcsc" posted? He posted pages 57 - 62 of the Fuel System manual p/n 7797363-4 titled Trouble Shooting Electric Pump Fuel System which include how to test the relay and an electric fuel pump circuit diagram.

I missed seeing those posted, but that is the info you need.
 

pinbodean

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

[ Could the float in the carb be sticking? I had that happen on an old Mark Twain I had.
 

cpjxh7

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

That's where I think I'm going next. $35 for a rebuild kit. When it happens the carb is dryer than a popcorn fart.

Tonight I'm replacing my battery ($64), fuel line ($7), anti siphon valve ($7), fuel pump relay ($16). Realize this may not all be necessary and some may be rolling their eyes, but since everything is 9 years old, for $30 it's worth it to me, consider it preventative maintenance. Especially so I will never have to pull that !#$%*! floor up again. Will also inspect/clean the pickup screen.

Don S says that the pump relay can have an intermittent problem, so for $16 it's gone, Take it out of the equation. Also said diodes are either good or bad, so the fact that is running now tells me the diodes are fine. Could possibly still be a bad connection or short somewhere that I have not found.

Battery tested marginal so I'm not chancing it.

It’s really a tough spot because I can not get the problem to reoccur. Dealer is 3 week turnaround so will give this a try. And at this point I have more $$ than time.

Thanks!
 

av8or09

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Re: Fuel Problem? -- 97, 4.3L GL, 2Bbl Holly, electric fuel pump

John;
You say you have an electric fuel pump, would it happen to be a Holley with an internal pressure regulator?? The reason I ask is that is what I have, and I had the exact problem you described. It ended up being the internal regulator on the pump was fouled up. The rubber plunger on the end of the spring had dislodged leaving an open return path to the tank for the fuel to drain back when the pump is off. B/T/W before anyone one ask this is the Holley Marine pump. To fix it, I went on Holleys web site and got the rebuild kit part # I needed and ordered it thru ADVANCE Auto. They can get Marine parts if you know the #'s. Had it the next day ! Best part. it was only six bucks and an hours work!!!
 
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