Re: fuel /water separator installation
Service guy says the gear lube is burned in the drive. Ha, that's a good one. He's either an idiot, or all the guys are laughing about telling you that after you leave the shop.<br />Always remember, shops don't make money on warranty work like they would regular paying repairs, just like auto delears. Time is money, so they push the warranty claims aside to make as much room for the paying repairs.<br />You might like to know that the outdrive is a sealed, closed system for lubrication. Seals on the propshaft and upper drive shaft. No oil leaks out. No water gets in. There is no air vent, like on transmissions or gearboxes. So, only oil can escape, and water possibly enter, due to a bad seal. Also, with the outdrive 90% in the water, the gear lube temp probably doesn't get over 100F with water temp < 80F. So the oil is not going to burn up! And if it somehow did, it's going to remain in the drive, and when you eventually drain the oil you notice black burnt oxidized gear lube.<br /><br />Adding a few ounces one time is normal, probably the drive wasn't filled fully initially like was said. If you notice the gear lube level on the bottle on the engine going down and you keep adding to it to keep it to the full mark, then you have a leak. That's what that bottle is there for.<br /><br />Sorry Don, but I disagree with your view on boat oil changes. I don't understand why the boat would get pulled out of the water, or moved to a working area. All the service guy's gonna due is use a vacuum oil extractor or similar and pump out the oil from the dipstick. Undo the oil filter, the 3.0L is really easy, and use a few shop rags. There is no mess. Changing the oil on my 3.0L is easier than doing any vehicle I've ever had, but I admit that's mostly because of how the motor sits in the boat.