Gale 5HP water pump

itstippy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Messages
548
I've got an early 1950's Gale Sea King 5HP direct drive that obviously isn't pumping water through the cooling channels (running in a barrel it takes three minutes to get hotter'n a 2 dollar pistol). Powerhead is now off, air blown through the water passage seems fine. I've never been into a lower unit like this before. The crude "water pump" consists of a recpirocating (not rotating) rubber ring on an eccentric hub mouted on the propshaft. The rubber ring has a rectangular protrusion that goes back and forth in a cast channel to create a pumping action. Water is fed into the housing through two holes in the prop hub. A simple (but feeble) water pump. But it's not pumping water. The rubber pump ring thing (I can't call it an impeller) is intact and looks fine but it's not very flexible at all. Is that the likely cause? Is it supposed to be supple rubber, like a new impeller? Or is "hard" normal?
Bizzare little motor. The magnets to run the magneto ignition are not mouted on the flywheel - they're in a circular (solid?) steel piece that's fitted to the crankshaft with a key and rotates INSIDE the coils' radius - not outside. I have no idea how the points work (no cam! no springs! magic!). Dang thing is 55 years old and the coils are perfect. Throws a bright blue spark. 78 lbs compression both holes. I found the rubber rings on eBay for $20 but are there any other likely causes of poor (nonexistant) water circulation in these old motors? Don't ask me to pull the cylinder head and have a look - it's all one piece with the cylinders! No head bolts to corrode that way, I guess.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: Gale 5HP water pump

Hey, itstippy, now you're getting into some real history!! As you have already figured out that is a surprisingly well running motor for being so simple and crude.
First, the water pump, often referred to as a wobbler pump. The rubber part is properly called a rotor and is fairly hard rubber. Part number 550040. They are available from Brian Wilcox at www.pfs-ware.com/impellers Cheaper than e-bay too. They swell up from grease leaking out of the lower unit and quit working. Here's how it works. You got most of it figured out, water is force fed to the pump intake by holes in the propeller. But that in itself is not enough. The rotor is supposed to be a snug fit on the eccentric that drives it. The outside of the rotor is supposed to just touch the housing on one side. The other side should have a gap of approx 1/8 inch between the rotor and housing. As the eccentric causes the rotor to wobble in the housing that gap moves from one side to the other. That is what pumps the water, the gap appearing on the intake side and filling with water, and moving it to the output side and forcing the water up the outlet tube as the gap disappears, only to repeat itself at the intake side. The tab has nothing to do with it other than separating the intake side from the output. As I mentioned, if the rubber has swollen, you won't have the necessary gap on one side to move the water.

On to the magneto. That mag was used on many motors, including Gale and Johnsons. Unlike the newer-old OMC motors, this one is nearly bulletproof. You hardly ever find a bad coil, but it can happen, rarely. Take another look and you will see that the cam is ground on the crankshaft. The points are rather wierd, but work just like any other points. There is no seal on the crank, but it does have a slinger to throw the oil off and then it is sucked back down into the intake. Did I mention simple? It is best to take the points apart for cleaning each contact individually and wash the parts up with some electrical cleaner. But be very careful to note how all the insulators go, and don't lose the little round ones that go on the screws. The round end of the push rod goes against the point, flat end against the crank. Other than the design, this mag works just like any other.

Don't ever take the side plates off the powerhead. They are dang near impossible to reseal.
 

itstippy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Messages
548
Re: Gale 5HP water pump

Thanks, F_R! Now that I understand how the waterpump is supposed to pump water I see that it doesn't have a chance the way the "rotor" is. It is indeed swollen and fills the channel fully. New rotor already ordered. Your explaination of how the the points operate and warning about the side plates are greatly appreciated also. What do I fill the gearcase with for lube? Blue marine grease or 90 weight hypoid or what?
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: Gale 5HP water pump

Most people use Lubriplate 105, commonly sold a "Motor Assembly Grease" at auto parts stores.
 

itstippy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Messages
548
Re: Gale 5HP water pump

Thanks again. I wouldn't have thought of lubriplate.
 
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