gamefisher electronics

[newjon2008]

I Have a early 1980's 7.5 hp gamefisher with electronic ignition. Is there anyway of testing the module. There is bound to be someway of bench testing these modules

Thank you

 

[CATransplant]

Re: gamefisher electronics

Sadly, there doesn't seem to be any info on testing. I have the original service manual for an earlier version, and their advise for testing those electronic ignition parts is to "substitute a known good part." Not helpful.

Your outboard was made by Eska, now long out of business. www.certifiedpartscorp.com is the best supplier of parts for those engines, and www.searspartsdirect.com also has some parts. (the site's down this morning).

The main problem is that the electronics in the ignition on those models failed pretty regularly, and the supply of OEM parts is used up. Parts motors are easy to find, but they are usually for sale because those parts are defective and can't be obtained.

Frankly, your best bet is to find one that's running well and use it, keeping your old one for other parts you may need.

If you don't have much invested in your Gamefisher, consider not throwing good money after bad and finding a Johnson or Evinrude of similar power. The 6hp johnnyrudes will outperform your 7.5, and they'll do it quietly and without vibration.

I hate to be a doomsayer, but if your ignition module is dead, your engine is dead.

 

[guy48065]

Re: gamefisher electronics

These Eska air-cooled outboards are often described as having "lawnmower" engines and if so parts ought to be cheap & easy to find. Are they that different? What about so-called "universal" ignition modules? I remember back when there was a breakerless conversion kit that fit most B&S engines. Quite small. Maybe one could replace the Eska module? It seems unlikely that the magneto would go bad unless badly rusted.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: gamefisher electronics

Older Eskas had typical magneto ignitions. Some time in the 70's Eska started using a capacitative discharge or CD ignition, just like most other makers did.

If your engine has a coil mounted outside on the cylinder head, with the spark plug wire coming out of it, that's the "transformer" for the CD ignition. You can replace that coil, since it is pretty available, if expensive.

If that's the type of ignition on yours, there are other components under the flywheel. There's a charging coil and a timing module. No points. What fails on these "Solid State" ignitions is the timing module. It has a couple of diodes in it that are usually what fail. But...since it's a potted circuit, changing them really isn't possible.

One of the reasons for failure happens when a user disconnects the small wire that goes to the external "transformer" coil on the exterior of the engine. That causes excess voltage in the module and destroys the diode.

The problem with getting replacements is that it was a common failure point on those engines. Eska is out of business, and no more parts have been made since the company folded back in the 70s. All of the parts that existed have been used up to repair these now 30+ year old motors.

There aren't enough of them to warrant re-engineering the module, so if you have a bad module, you're about out of luck.

You can watch eBay. But don't buy a module by itself. It's probably bad. You can buy a running outboard that matches yours, but if it runs, why not use that one until it stops running?

Now, if yours does not have the external "transformer," you may have one of the rare ones with a conventional magneto. Those can be fixed, since the parts are available from www.certifiedpartscorp.com.

 

[guy48065]

Re: gamefisher electronics

I have some experience with CDI modules on scooter motors. There are many different "upgrade" CDIs available for these, some claim to have special advance "curves", different or no RPM limiters, etc. I've tested about 6 of these from various sources & prices, both in vehicles and on the bench and found NO difference at all in timing or operation. These modules don't have power to them when the motor isn't running and the battery is only for cranking so there really can't be any actual timing "curve" programmed into these simple CDIs.

This experience might not be transferrable to small outboards but I would assume that any CDI of this type would basically contain the same 5 or 6 discreet components and would be interchangeable. Finding one that fits and can be adapted to the odd through-rivet & kill terminal connection may be another hurdle...

I know you don't feel these little air-cooled outboards are worth saving but maybe we shouldn't be so quick to send them off to the landfill.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: gamefisher electronics

The problem is that on those Tecumseh engines, the module isn't just a module. It has it's own little coil in it that's used to pickup a timing signal from the flywheel magnets. That means that it's not going to work to hang some other CDI unit on there.

The further problem is that, like most outboards, timing advance is done by moving the timing plate, shifting the pickups in relation to the flywheel position.

No doubt, a system could be cooked up using something like an automotive optical system, external to the flywheel, but that's a big job for an amateur engineer. Those systems also require a conversion to a battery ignition, as well. It's just not worth the hassle.

I was considering fooling around with this whole thing, since I had a 9.9 Eska with that ignition system. I thought better of it and sold the silly thing for $40. It just wasn't worth the trouble it would take trying to jury rig something.

There's a guy on the web who has worked out a repair for the module on one of the Tecumseh garden tractor engines. He dug out the potting material and replaced the burnt-out diode, but it's not the same ignition system, exactly. I think he also figured out a automotive parts replacement method, with the problem that it had to be battery powered, as I mentioned above. Not a big deal on a garden tractor, which already has a battery, but not so ideal for an outboard. Also, the garden tractor doesn't have the same advance mechanism as the outboard.

Still, Googling Tecumseh Solid State Ignition will find that page.

I have no doubt, whatever, that it's possible to engineer a system that will work on those Tecumseh outboards. But, with the value of even the 9.9 and 15 hp twins being about $250 when they're running perfectly, I guess it just doesn't have much appeal to people who are capable of figuring it out.

I could do it, but I'd rather go fishing in my old age. When you can buy a nice Johnnyrude 6hp for $300 or so, what's the point of spending a bunch of money on an air-cooled 7.5 hp that won't perform as well?

My reason for posting on these topics is that I've been in the same position with a 30+ year old Eska, and want to give fair warning about what to expect.

If you know of an actual working solution for the situation, then please post it here. I'm sure there will be lots of people interested.

 

[guy48065]

Re: gamefisher electronics

I'll probably cut my losses & run away from all this. I think I'll sell my Seagull and 2 Eskas and just stick with a '76 Mariner 5M I also have. At least it's 50:1 and quiet so I don't scare off the loons on the lake

 

[CATransplant]

Re: gamefisher electronics

Dump the Eskas, but keep the Seagull. That's a cool outboard, and parts will probably always be available. The British keep old things even longer than we do.

 

[guy48065]

Re: gamefisher electronics

I'm not into collecting outboards (so how did I end up with 4?!). I'd rather sell it to someone who can really appreciate it.

It's torquey but very slow and the cooling system gets plugged up real easy on weedy inland lakes.

I did consider keeping it in the living room as sort of "art" but my wife doesn't share this vision

 

[CATransplant]

Re: gamefisher electronics

Sweet! Heck, with that stand, it'd make a nice side table for your recliner. Looks to me like a coffee cup on a coaster would sit right on the tank. I'm sure your wife wouldn't mind.