Garboard Plug and MarineTex

[I Can Fix That]

Well after months of reading, researching, laughing and head-scratching on this awesome site I've decided to make my first post after becoming the proud owner of my first new/used boat:yo:. She's a 90 Rinker 206 open bow. So a few weeks ago my plug fitting screws were loose enough that when I was tightening the plug it shifted a couple degrees, tightened up screws and been ok since. I was planning on removing the fitting and re-sealing with 4200 but I am expecting to find some rot to some degree since when I was mounting my Bennet tabs, a couple holes bottom port side had some water. (haven't taken a moisture meter to her yet but she knocks pretty solid) So the question is once I get the fitting out if I do find some rot to dig out around the area, I have some MarineTex in the garage and wasn't sure if it would be suitable to patch around the inside of the transom being there's the constant torquing of the plug every time I hit the lake. Box said 8K psi? and I've read 4200psi elsewhere? Even still it's tough for me to trust anything completely that isn't welded steel. Any thoughts or been there done thats? (I have no plans of rebuilding the transom anytime soon is why I'm going this route for the time being)

 

[jigngrub]

(I have no plans of rebuilding the transom anytime soon is why I'm going this route for the time being)

See you at the bottom!!! (on my sonar)

Trying to get anything to hold in rod will be an exercise in futility.
... but back in my hard-headed/death wish/daredevil days I'd probably squirted as much marine epoxy or 5200 as I could into the screw holes and around the flange of the fitting and let everything set and cure. This will be an adhesive only fix and the fasteners will be pretty much worthless.

... and it's still not going to fix your rot problem.

 

[Bob_VT]

You can do a few things.

Drill out the old holes and fill them with marine tex (you can even use thin wooden dowels to help fill but absolutely seal it up. Rotate the garboard plug and drill new pilot holes, put some marine tex on the screw threads and re-install. Let it sit undisturbed for at least 24 hrs.

When you drill out the old holes you will probably see damp wood since there has been shifting. The reason you drill the old holes is to reveal good wood so you get an adequate bond. You can drill the new pilot holes and drill out the old holes at the same time and then if you have the time.....let it dry out if it appears damp/wet

Now there is a product that will still adhere and cure when damp/wet called PC11 (the PC7 is not designed for curing damp).

If you are sure everything is repaired it should get you through the season if you need more repairs.

 

[jigngrub]

You can do a few things.

Drill out the old holes and fill them with marine tex (you can even use thin wooden dowels to help fill but absolutely seal it up. Rotate the garboard plug and drill new pilot holes, put some marine tex on the screw threads and re-install. Let it sit undisturbed for at least 24 hrs.

When you drill out the old holes you will probably see damp wood since there has been shifting. The reason you drill the old holes is to reveal good wood so you get an adequate bond. You can drill the new pilot holes and drill out the old holes at the same time and then if you have the time.....let it dry out if it appears damp/wet

Now there is a product that will still adhere and cure when damp/wet called PC11 (the PC7 is not designed for curing damp).

If you are sure everything is repaired it should get you through the season if you need more repairs.

Rotating the fitting is a good suggestion if the wood isn't rotten all the way around the hole.

The wooden dowels is a good suggestion if you have something solid to drive them into and the wood isn't rotten all the way around the hole.

Since the OP struck water further up on the transom when mounting his tabs, I don't think the wood around the drain plug hole is going to be too sporty since water migrates down to seek it's own level.

 

[I Can Fix That]

Alright, so I didn't take any pics of this little project but it's taken care of. Took the fitting off and cringed at finding common household silicone all over :stupid: It was apparent there was an issue previously since there other holes filled in and the plug hole was quite larger that it should be. As far as the wood goes there was some damp(ish) greasiness from the silicone. I scraped off maybe up to a half mil. Marine Tex went all around the inside almost closing the entire hole, all drill holes filled in then went and filed out an almost perfect hole to remount and 4200 up the fitting. All turned out better than it could have. Fitting was rotated and new holes drilled and screws sealed. Thanks for the help.
Also- I am suspicious of the water in my previous drilling for the tabs may have been because it was raining outside, had the transom backed in the garage but my engine vents have been allowing rain in the back (another project, another day) and could have been the water trickling down the inside. It was clean-ish looking water that wasn't there until I drilled all the way through and didn't drain out long. Be keeping an eye on all that.

 

[jigngrub]

Hmmmm... residential silicone, oversized hole, and screw holes from the fitting already being rotated sounds like the beginning of a good horror story if someone had the gumption to delve deeper into the dark and unseen recesses of your boat.