gauges

[Jcris]

I've been having some issues with my gauges of late and after doing some checking am coming to the conclusion that I may need to just replace these 21 year instruments. What I'm finding is that typical gauges on boats are not that accurate. If that is true then what is a good choice for replacement? I have a 6 gauge set and would be inclined to replace the tach, speedometer, oil pressure, water temp and senders as necessary. I'm looking for some suggestions for a decent quality set of gauges that won't break the bank.

 

[frantically relaxing]

disclaimer: all of the following is just my opinion, so take it FWIW

The reason boat gauges "aren't that accurate" has a lot to do with the fact they're all electrically operated, and electric gauges work via resistance to ground and require good connections and short wire runs, neither of which typically true with boats. I've never had a boat yet that the volt meter ever got over 13 volts, many never reach 13, yet a VM at the battery typically shows 13.5 to 14 volts. Chances are high if you pulled the meter from the dashboard and connected it straight to the battery, it would read much higher. Our SkipperLiner, with its miles of wiring, the gauges are a guess at best. Turn on the nav lights and as the volt meter reads lower, all other gauges read higher, including the tachometers. If I turn all 4 ignition switches on, volt meters read higher. Etc, etc...

Between the long runs of small gauge wiring and the 'marine environment' always at work, best you can hope for is 'consistency'. And from personal experience, I've never known Stuart Warner gauges to work any better than Faria gauges-- in a boat...

 

[Lowlysubaruguy]

Ill second the ground and connection issues. Before you replace your gauges bring a new ground wire to the dash id run a 12 gauge wire myself. Disconnect your battery and clean every connection fuses etc. use dielectric grease at any contact point and see what you get. In reality this will only take an hour or two tops if you just go after it. Most marine gauges are really solid. The wires and connection not

 

[gm280]

My personal opinion would be to remove the gauges and clean the terminals to bright shiny metal once again and reinstall them. And check the wires going to the gauges for any signs of corrosion. Wires don't last forever and if you choose to replace any wire, make certain your new wires are true marine grade tinned wires. That will make you gauges work like new again. And a lot cheaper them replace them. JMHO

 

[Scott Danforth]

Boat gauges arent accurate because they cost about $1 each to make for 2" gauges, and about $2 each for 3-3/8 gauges and they are wired by humans.

The gauges are then dropped into $1 box and enters the logistics pipeline

 

[Jcris]

Good stuff guy's,
I'll spend some time today refreshing the connections.
I see a small 1/8" i.d. hose on either the tach or the speedo, not sure which. It runs from a bulkhead fitting on the transom to the gauge. What is it's function?
The rpm/tach gauge is quite erratic lately so I think I'll pull it and inspect. I'm trying not to just replace these gauges as I really don't think new ones will prove to be that much better. I'll post some results in a couple days.
The fishing here on Clearlake in Northern California has just been spectacular, so the boat has been getting a lot of use.
Cruising across the lake to a favorite fishing spot, as the sun comes up is such a great feeling. Makes this old guy forget about the world and all it's troubles.
Cheers gentlemen!

 

[Mohawkmtrs]

The small hose runs from the pitot (pronounced pee tow) tube (the bulkhead fitting) to the speedometer.

Water pressure as you cruise through the water pushes on the air in the hose and moves the needle on your speedometer.

 

[gm280]

Mohawkmtrs is correct about the pivot tube going to the speedometer gauge. It reads MPH but really is a pressure gauge. So that one is merely a guess even new because it can change readings according to water conditions and currents. AS for the other gauges, again it depends on the sensors used sending the info and the wires and connections. They all play into the scheme of things. But clean connections will offer the best you can expect from any gauge. Again JMHO!

 

[Chigwalla]

+1 on the ground: that's where most electrical problems happen.
Don't tap into your guage power or grounds for anything that isn't instrumentation and don't run high current leads (windlass etc) near them.
Is your tach the problem or is it the sense lead off the alternator ?
Tap on the guage face and see if the needle bounces around.
If it does, that's the problem. If it doesn't, it may still be the problem.

If it's an outboard, it's not uncommon for the tach sense (grey wire) on the regulator to pack it in.
If you have two regulators, you can use the other tach sense lead by making up a short extension lead to reach it.