Gear oil sandwich??

[CaptCrunch205]

So I went through my outdrive for the beginning of the season and had to re-adjust my shift adjustments as it wasn't going into reverse like it should. So I ran it on the muffs and got everything working like it should. I checked the oil and it looked milky on the dipstick. I popped the top of and it's a pretty tan color (grrrr). I pull the fill plug and it's nice fresh gear oil. I pulled the bottom drain plug and it was milky looking as well. Doesn't that seem odd? Scratching my head on this one.

 

[Lou C]

Sounds like you need to do a pressure/vacuum test. When you change gear oil have you been changing those fiber white plastic washers each time? If not they can leak. Normally if there is just a small amount of water in the gear oil you will see it when you pull the bottom most plug but not on the dipstick. If its on the dipstick that's a lot of water in the gear oil....

 

[CaptCrunch205]

Yes I changed the plastic washers on the dipstick and both plugs. I put a new gimbal bearing in as well. How often does that seal behind the bearing need to be changed?

 

[Lou C]

That seal can be changed when you do the bearing but I don't think not changing it, will hurt anything. If the bellows leaks then water is going to seep in anyway. I'd see about rigging up a vacuum/pressure tester and see if it holds pressure and vacuum...then with soapy water try to find out which seals are leaking...could be:
prop shaft seals
seal behind the water pump shaft
shift rod seal
shift rod cover gasket

there may be more, that's just the basics...I never resealed mine myself, I last had it done by my mechanic about 12 years ago, so it would not surprise me if I have to do it again in the next few seasons.

 

[kpg7121]

Yes I changed the plastic washers on the dipstick and both plugs. I put a new gimbal bearing in as well. How often does that seal behind the bearing need to be changed?

First place I would look is water pump shaft seal. Remove the pump cover & impeller & if you see gear oil leaking past that seal there's where water is getting in. Not really a difficult repair but the adaptor which houses that seal can be a pain in the butt to remove.

 

[CaptCrunch205]

I have already replaced the prop seals, carrier o-ring and the o-rings on the bolts that hold the carrier in. I was under the impression that the seal behind the water pump couldn’t be replaced without pulling the input shaft. Couldn’t it also be the input shaft seal as well. Doesn’t sound like that is something that an intermediate wrencher could do. Wouldn’t you have to have special tools and deal with shims and backlash. What would an approximate cost be for having the whole outdrive re-sealed? Thanks

 

[Lou C]

OK if you go on youtube there is a guy by the name of Michael Roemer who shows how to remove that plate to replace the seal. Its a little involvoed but if you could do those other seals I bet you could do this...take a look....

 

[CaptCrunch205]

Thanks Lou. I will look it up and see what it looks like.

 

[CaptCrunch205]

So I pulled the water pump and checked an nothing was coming from there. Impeller looked good and everything else looked good. Resealed it with OMC gasket sealer. Ran a pressure test and it held 15#'s for over 2 hours. The guy that winterizes my boat told me to fill it and take it out on the lake and run it. Then check it when I get back in. Refilled it and took it out for a couple hours. Ran great, shifted awesome, ran about 150 -160 temp wise. Brought it back in drove to my in-laws. Trimmed it down, ate dinner, pulled the dipstick, nice clear clean oil. Pulled the drain plug nice clean clear oil, same at the fill plug. I guess I will just check it for the next few outings and see if anything changes. That's about all I can do. Thanks for everyone's help!!