Generater Mods

Nafta_84

Seaman Apprentice
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Oct 13, 2003
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31
I have a 1970 evinrude model #40072. it is an electric shift evinrude lark, with a generator. Unfortunately someone tried opening it and droped a nut in it and the nut tor the armature windings. i am aware that the regular generator produces 10 amps, but is there a way that i could upgrade it to a higher amperage. If not, wat other engines would have this generator? there are 2 number, a sticker with the # 379626 and on the bottum, GJG-2? sorry so long.
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
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Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Generater Mods

Too bad!<br /><br />Any generator for a '60s era Big Twin (28, 33, or 40hp) or early - mid '60s V-4 (ie, 60, 75, 80 hp and others I'm sure) will work. They're all pretty well the same - and they all make 10amps max.<br /><br />A while back someone suggested that a Geo Metro/Chevy Firefly alternator might make a good starting point for a higher current system. But that would involve some rather substaintal backyard engineering. (including sparkproofing!)<br /><br />Hope this helps!<br /><br />EDIT: If it turns out to be a real problem getting a spare, you might try dropping it off to a electric motor rewind shop and have it repaired. It's just an idea - I don't know what they would charge.
 

Nafta_84

Seaman Apprentice
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Oct 13, 2003
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31
Re: Generater Mods

One question for paul, about the Geo Metro/Fire Fly Alternator, what other things need to be done to the alternator to make it work, u will probably need a new regulator right? and wat year of geo/Firefyl is needed?
 

Paul Moir

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Re: Generater Mods

You want a pre'95 Metro/Fire Fly/Sprint/Suzuki Samuri alternator, plus the regulator. Or you could start with something simpler like this:<br />Ebay Item. <br />The big thing about these alternators is that they are tiny, and will be easier to fit under the cowl. Still, it's going to be a real challenge to fit it. You'll need to fabricate a bracket for it, and probably rework the flywheel guard bracket. Then you'll need to work out the belt-pulley issue. Mabey make the flywheel pulley operate a v-belt since the toothed belts are hard to come by. Finally, you'll have to spark proof it as well. <br />As you can see, it's quite a tall order and is no simple bolt-on.<br />I never got much further than this with it. Once I realized that having a charging system wasn't that important, I gave up on it. But I don't have an electric shift outboard.
 

Nafta_84

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 13, 2003
Messages
31
Re: Generater Mods

well thanxs alot both of u i will try and see what happens in each situation.
 

lark2004

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Jul 12, 2004
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1,080
Re: Generater Mods

I know, I'm draging up an old post here, but you mentioned spark proofing Paul. What exactly does this involve?
 

WillyBWright

Fleet Admiral
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Dec 29, 2003
Messages
8,200
Re: Generater Mods

The sterndrive and inboard alternators have tiny mesh screens covering any openings to prevent stray sparks from igniting fuel fumes that may collect. Good idea if it can be done, but not USCG required that I know of cuz it's an outboard. Theoretically fumes are heavier than air and should escape out the bottom pan under the carb where the air comes in. Still I can picture seeing that hood blown a few feet into the air. :eek: :cool: ;)
 

Paul Moir

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Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Generater Mods

We should be clear about this - this is definitely risking-yours-and-others-life engineering.<br />That said, further research shows that the Denso 8162 50A alternator is pretty well the smallest automotive one available with a body diameter of 93mm! But it's peppered with cooling holes that's going to make spark-proofing very difficult.<br />A better alternative may be to try to use a small marine alternator. The old Atomic 4 blowboat pusher (Gasoline) had a 35A alternator about 4.5" in diameter. The little 35A Hitachi alternators off a GM Yanmar look like they're bigger, and I suspect they're not spark-proof.<br /><br />Either way, it's a lot of work for not much reward.
 
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