Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

RadarRick

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2010
Messages
189
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

I just saw the shrapnel and stop button photos at the first post. It'll be interesting if someone can identify it.
 

Rodneybr

Cadet
Joined
Dec 25, 2010
Messages
17
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

I just got around to checking compression and both cyclinders have compression over 100 so I am going to declare victory for now (I will take her for a run this weekend and let you know how it goes)

I was about to purchase the stop button on eBay but the cost surprised me ($20 + $17 shipping). I thought this was pretty steep. I did some searching here in my local area, and I found a guy selling a similar 9.8 110 for $150 so I bought it (see photo). At a minimum I will use it for parts but I am hopeful to get her running too

I have done all things that you told me to do with the 1967

Check for spark (passed)
Check compression done (passed)
New spark plugs (completed)
Check impeller before starting the engine (completed but check failed)

I fully inspected the entire water pump, it had minor debree and one of the blades on the impeller was damaged. I ordered a new impeller, and I installed it today but I ran into an issue reassembling the impeller housing. I am not able to get the water pump face plate to sit cleanly on the water pump base. The base is butting up against the shaft (see attached picture). Reading section Seloc Mercury 1 and 2 cylinder Outboards 1965-1989 1404 (section 9-42) mentions something about shimming. I need to be enlightened, do I need shim and what should I be shimming with? I did verify that the face place seats cleanly when the shaft is not in the way. I can get it to sit clean in the the middle of shaft but I can't get is seated in the correct spot on the shaft.

Another question : What is your recommendation for a multipurpose lubricant
 

Rodneybr

Cadet
Joined
Dec 25, 2010
Messages
17
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

1967

I took the 67 motor out for a test run yesterday and she ran like a champ but the flow of water was not consistent (or not as strong) as I was seeing in the test tank. When I first got her in the water it was strong and consistent with what I was seeing in the tank but it dwindle to a trickle. I put the motor in neutral and played with the throttle for a while, and I was able to get a flow again. I put it back in forward and it kept a weak flow going. I plan to take the lower unit off again, and look around some more for anything that could impact the flow.

1972 (not sure about the year)

Any help here would be greatly appreciate, I don't know how to start addressing the current problem ("Water pump face plate not sitting cleanly in the waterpump housing")

the original post has been edited to contain photos to the currrent set of issues.

Thanks
 

Rodneybr

Cadet
Joined
Dec 25, 2010
Messages
17
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

Gentlemen, if I violated any rules then please let me know, and I will do my best to make it right. I'm really appreciative of the help that I have already received, and I still need a little bit more.

1972 ) I need some advice on how to proceed with not being able to put water pump pack together. I can not get the face plat to sit cleanly.
 

Sunfish12

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Messages
260
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

Remove the thermostat (with the lower unit removed) and blow through the housing with a garden hose to clear out any obstruction. If you have nice flow then there is no clog ging in the power head.
 

Sunfish12

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Messages
260
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

Mercury listed two impellers for the 9.8. Make sure you have the right one.
 

bktheking

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
5,057
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

The smaller impeller is very rare, was for an oddball lower unit, it's almost always the larger ID of the 2.
 

Rodneybr

Cadet
Joined
Dec 25, 2010
Messages
17
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

I am pretty sure that I have the right impeller. The one I got has the same serial number as the one that I took out (ends with 81)

The issue isn't the impeller, I can't get the cover to fit when the water pump housing it in the right position. The cover does not sit well because it is bumping into the shaft. The shaft is in the way, the cover fits cleanly when the pump housing is half way up the shaft (make sense?)

I am thinking some shimming of some sort has to done but I don't know what\how to achieve it. ( but of course I could be wrong):facepalm:
 

bktheking

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
5,057
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

What cover are you speaking of?
 

Rodneybr

Cadet
Joined
Dec 25, 2010
Messages
17
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

the cover that goes directly on top of the impeller. (small platter with a nitch that goes into the water pump housing) There is a picture attached.

thanks
 

bktheking

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 29, 2008
Messages
5,057
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

Doesn't make sense, the the driveshaft seated fully into the gearcase? It came off properly so it has to go on properly. The impellers are a different inside diameter , the small one will only go so far down the driveshaft and stop, the large one will go all the way down to the bottom of the gearcase. Are you positive you have the proper impeller?
 

Rodneybr

Cadet
Joined
Dec 25, 2010
Messages
17
Re: Getting a Mercury 9.8 TWIN running (1967)

The impeller is the exact same model that I took out. The impeller isn't the issue, I took the impeller out and attempted to put on the cover and I had the same problem. The cover is bumping into the shaft so it doesn't seat correctly.

"the the driveshaft seated fully into the gearcase? " This could be the million dollar question. I have verified that spinning the shaft\propeller also spins the propeller\shaft, and the overall mechanism appears to be working just fine.

Is there any visual signs of the driveshaft not fully seated in the gearcase?

Thanks again
 
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