getting out of the hole problems

BWR1953

Admiral
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
6,278
Re: getting out of the hole problems

Have your 160lb. brother try it by himself... with ONLY him in the boat... and then let us know how it works.
 

fish 4 life

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
90
Re: getting out of the hole problems

i will repeat what i said before.
i say probably all the above, plus you have 750 lbs in people 300 lbs in motor, bass style boat with seats set more to the stern. the boat is just plain tail heavy. you have to balance the load. that is what you did when you moved forward. a set of smart tabs, will help with the planing. i also suggest with that vintage boat to check for waterlogged foam. foam can hold as much as 5-700 lbs of water.

your motor height is fine, that short step will not effect it.

the tilt pin postion is critical, in getting out of the hole, the closer to the transom, it pushes the bow down, farther away the prop pushes the bow up. thus excessive bow rise. bass boat are not great at balancing the weight load, you have to get weight to the bow, to help bring the bow down.
__________________

I don't think I can put smart tabs on my boat because the back edges are angled and curbed. I also had the boat checked for waterlogged foam and no water was found in the foam. The tilt pin is in the fist hole closest to the transom.
 

fish 4 life

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
90
Re: getting out of the hole problems

Have your 160lb. brother try it by himself... with ONLY him in the boat... and then let us know how it works.

I might have to try that, but I don't know if I can trust him to come back with my boat.:D
 

Charlie in TX

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
98
Re: getting out of the hole problems

A 140hp motor, properly mounted etc, should get you, your dad, your brother, your uncle and his fat wife on plan while pulling a skier.:)

It looks like, form your picture, you have 2 problems. 1. the motor is to hi. 2. the motor does not trim in enough. You said you can't change #1 right now. But #2....

Again, looking at your picture, your 'thrust rod assembly' is out too far. Move it all the way up to the boat. Don't know what that is? Go here http://shop2.evinrude.com/ext/index.aspx?s1=e9221dd051f38c67f07934f54912a437 . Tunnel down to your motor. Select 'Midsection'. Look at item 61.
 

fish 4 life

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
90
Re: getting out of the hole problems

A 140hp motor, properly mounted etc, should get you, your dad, your brother, your uncle and his fat wife on plan while pulling a skier.:)

It looks like, form your picture, you have 2 problems. 1. the motor is to hi. 2. the motor does not trim in enough. You said you can't change #1 right now. But #2....

Again, looking at your picture, your 'thrust rod assembly' is out too far. Move it all the way up to the boat. Don't know what that is? Go here http://shop2.evinrude.com/ext/index.aspx?s1=e9221dd051f38c67f07934f54912a437 . Tunnel down to your motor. Select 'Midsection'. Look at item 61.

I figured the same thing when I got this motor for this boat. I figured there should be plenty of power. The boat is rated for max HP at 140.

The thrust rod assembly is on the last hole next to the transom. It can't go any closer to the boat. Your talking about the pin right? I can't believe the trust rod assembly, which just looks like big pin, would cost $135.:eek:

I could remove the pin completely, but I am not sure if it is safe.
 

bassboattech

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
46
Re: getting out of the hole problems

you need wedges plain and simple. i have a 20 foot bass boat with a 150 and i can load the thing as much as i want weight is not a factor in these boats its a planing hull, once up on pad the just keep gaining speed. if it was my boat id call the factory and see if you can put a jackplate on it and what lenth. on my gambler im running 8 inches of setback.
 

fish 4 life

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
90
Re: getting out of the hole problems

you need wedges plain and simple. i have a 20 foot bass boat with a 150 and i can load the thing as much as i want weight is not a factor in these boats its a planing hull, once up on pad the just keep gaining speed. if it was my boat id call the factory and see if you can put a jackplate on it and what lenth. on my gambler im running 8 inches of setback.

I think I will try putting a transom wedge on first and if that does not work I will take it back and try a jack plate. Do you think I can put on a transom wedge without completely taking the motor of the transom.
 

bassboattech

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
46
Re: getting out of the hole problems

as you put wedges in the cavitation plate gets closer to the boat so your probably going to nee at least a 3 or 4 inch jackplate
 

fish 4 life

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
90
Re: getting out of the hole problems

as you put wedges in the cavitation plate gets closer to the boat so your probably going to nee at least a 3 or 4 inch jackplate

Why don't I just skip the wedges and just put on a 6 or 8 inch manually adjustable jack plate?

Just thinking out loud.
 

wizbang 13

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 17, 2009
Messages
40
Re: getting out of the hole problems

The jackplate will not allow you to trim in more, only up and down. The wedge is to add tuck,which is "trim in". Yes ,you have to take the engine off. You can make your own wedge of wood if you have a little woodworking skill.I'm not knockin the jackplate, but the wedge is free!free! The engine seems high, but 45 is nice!
 

fish 4 life

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
90
Re: getting out of the hole problems

(showing my ignorance) - I have bennett trim tabs on my boat - are smart tabs something else? are they used instead of trim tabs or in addition too?
thanks,

Bennett tabs are hydraulic, controllable with switches, and better than smart tabs. Smart tabs are not hydraulic and just work like a shock absorber on a car. You can't control smart tabs with a switch.
 

fish 4 life

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
90
Re: getting out of the hole problems

The jackplate will not allow you to trim in more, only up and down. The wedge is to add tuck,which is "trim in". Yes ,you have to take the engine off. You can make your own wedge of wood if you have a little woodworking skill.I'm not knockin the jackplate, but the wedge is free!free! The engine seems high, but 45 is nice!

I just figured since I am having to take the motor completely off the boat, this would be a good time to install a jack plate.:)
 

204Angler

Seaman
Joined
Oct 24, 2008
Messages
60
Re: getting out of the hole problems

One of my best friends has a brand new Nitro and was not set up correctly from the factory. It did the same thing yours is doing. It already had a manually adjusting jack-plate on it so we dropped the motor until anti cavitation plate was dead even with the v bottom of hull. We also threw on a stingray. It pops out of the hole, getting on plane quicker than I thought it would. It is a 115 Opti on a 19'. I am 200lbs, he is 270lbs and with a full live well with or without fish :) it gets up and goes. A manual jackplate will give you some set back, and it does allow you to raise your motor above the bottom of hull, however it is recommended you don't deviate further than 1" above. The only reason you would need to do that anyways if you were fishing flats....very, very skinny water (6"). Wedges are nice but turns taken at .5 to .75 throttle make cause the boat to plow more than usual when you have the motor tucked
 

fish 4 life

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
90
Re: getting out of the hole problems

One of my best friends has a brand new Nitro and was not set up correctly from the factory. It did the same thing yours is doing. It already had a manually adjusting jack-plate on it so we dropped the motor until anti cavitation plate was dead even with the v bottom of hull. We also threw on a stingray. It pops out of the hole, getting on plane quicker than I thought it would. It is a 115 Opti on a 19'. I am 200lbs, he is 270lbs and with a full live well with or without fish :) it gets up and goes. A manual jackplate will give you some set back, and it does allow you to raise your motor above the bottom of hull, however it is recommended you don't deviate further than 1" above. The only reason you would need to do that anyways if you were fishing flats....very, very skinny water (6"). Wedges are nice but turns taken at .5 to .75 throttle make cause the boat to plow more than usual when you have the motor tucked

Was the Nitro so bad that it could not get out of the hole unless you moved over 400 lbs to the front of the boat?
 

bassboattech

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
46
Re: getting out of the hole problems

try it- jack plates are multi functional. bass and walleye boats has a couple of articles
 

fish 4 life

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
90
Re: getting out of the hole problems

I talked to Ranger boats today and they said I probably need a transom wedge. They said they have had to put transom wedges on older outboards like mine in the past.

They also suggested drilling ventilation holes in the prop.
 

fish 4 life

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 3, 2009
Messages
90
Re: getting out of the hole problems

I went to the local prop shop and I talked to him about going down in pitch on a prop. He looked at my boat and he said the engine is too low and needs to be raised about an 1 or 1 1/2 inch. I told him I thought it was to high because the anti-cavitation plate was about 3 inches higher than the bottom of the boat. He said that not as big a deal as the prop being about 5 inches below the boat. He said the center of the prop should be no more than 4 inches below the boat and 3 inches for a four blade prop. He said the reason for my excessive bow rise is because the motor is too deep or too low.
 
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