i will repeat what i said before.
i say probably all the above, plus you have 750 lbs in people 300 lbs in motor, bass style boat with seats set more to the stern. the boat is just plain tail heavy. you have to balance the load. that is what you did when you moved forward. a set of smart tabs, will help with the planing. i also suggest with that vintage boat to check for waterlogged foam. foam can hold as much as 5-700 lbs of water.
your motor height is fine, that short step will not effect it.
the tilt pin postion is critical, in getting out of the hole, the closer to the transom, it pushes the bow down, farther away the prop pushes the bow up. thus excessive bow rise. bass boat are not great at balancing the weight load, you have to get weight to the bow, to help bring the bow down.
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Have your 160lb. brother try it by himself... with ONLY him in the boat... and then let us know how it works.
I might have to try that, but I don't know if I can trust him to come back with my boat.![]()
A 140hp motor, properly mounted etc, should get you, your dad, your brother, your uncle and his fat wife on plan while pulling a skier.![]()
It looks like, form your picture, you have 2 problems. 1. the motor is to hi. 2. the motor does not trim in enough. You said you can't change #1 right now. But #2....
Again, looking at your picture, your 'thrust rod assembly' is out too far. Move it all the way up to the boat. Don't know what that is? Go here http://shop2.evinrude.com/ext/index.aspx?s1=e9221dd051f38c67f07934f54912a437 . Tunnel down to your motor. Select 'Midsection'. Look at item 61.
you need wedges plain and simple. i have a 20 foot bass boat with a 150 and i can load the thing as much as i want weight is not a factor in these boats its a planing hull, once up on pad the just keep gaining speed. if it was my boat id call the factory and see if you can put a jackplate on it and what lenth. on my gambler im running 8 inches of setback.
as you put wedges in the cavitation plate gets closer to the boat so your probably going to nee at least a 3 or 4 inch jackplate
Why don't I just skip the wedges and just put on a 6 or 8 inch manually adjustable jack plate?
inho, Smart Tabs are the best $100 you can spend on a boat. read this.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=313041
(showing my ignorance) - I have bennett trim tabs on my boat - are smart tabs something else? are they used instead of trim tabs or in addition too?
thanks,
The jackplate will not allow you to trim in more, only up and down. The wedge is to add tuck,which is "trim in". Yes ,you have to take the engine off. You can make your own wedge of wood if you have a little woodworking skill.I'm not knockin the jackplate, but the wedge is free!free! The engine seems high, but 45 is nice!
One of my best friends has a brand new Nitro and was not set up correctly from the factory. It did the same thing yours is doing. It already had a manually adjusting jack-plate on it so we dropped the motor until anti cavitation plate was dead even with the v bottom of hull. We also threw on a stingray. It pops out of the hole, getting on plane quicker than I thought it would. It is a 115 Opti on a 19'. I am 200lbs, he is 270lbs and with a full live well with or without fishit gets up and goes. A manual jackplate will give you some set back, and it does allow you to raise your motor above the bottom of hull, however it is recommended you don't deviate further than 1" above. The only reason you would need to do that anyways if you were fishing flats....very, very skinny water (6"). Wedges are nice but turns taken at .5 to .75 throttle make cause the boat to plow more than usual when you have the motor tucked