Gimbal Bearing

Sashap

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May 1, 2016
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145
I know its a bit of a drive but might be a good idea to go to Kamloops.

I know. There is a guy there called Robin of Robins Marine. He has parts dating back from 1960s. There is nothing he doesn't know and he and his team will even give full technical advice as well as over the phone. He ships parts but again, this is a weekend and ...
 

Fun Times

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9,166
In every video it says the dot is at top on the outside with slots in. Apparently your way is referenced as the old way. No idea why it was changed.
The dot should be installed at the 10 o'clock position in-turn putting the grease hole in the 4 o'clock position for alignment with the grease tube/hole of the housing.

Gimbal Bearing Servicing on MerCruiser I Models:
We frequently hear reports where someone has replaced a gimbal bearing without replacing the cartridge. (Figure 1) This should not be done under any circumstances. The bearing is selectively fitted to the cartridge during manufacturing and must remain together as a matched set. Failure to do this, could result in a loose fit between bearing and cartridge and cause a noise similar to U-joint knocking. Secondly, bearing may be damaged from lack of lubrication, if bearing is installed backward. (Figure 2).

To help ensure that the bearing is replaced as an assembly, current production MerCruiser 120-thru-300MR models have the gimbal bearing assembly installed with the bearing removal and installation slots (Figure 1) inward. Bearing can no longer be removed from the cartridge while installed in gimbal housing. If replacing a gimbal bearing assembly, the new assembly also should be installed in this manner.
If a gimbal bearing assembly is to be reused, the tolerance ring (Figure 1) should always be replaced. It is essential that a tight fit be maintained between gimbal bearing cartridge and gimbal housing. A loose fit could allow bearing assembly to spin in the gimbal housing and/or cause U-joint knocking type noises.
When installing a gimbal bearing assembly, be sure bearing is fully seated in gimbal housing. Cartridge must be pressed in past snap ring groove or lead in chamfer in gimbal housing, as applicable. (Figure 3 or 4) Failure to do this, could cause U-joint yoke to contact bearing in turns with subsequent U-joint knocking resulting.

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Bullet/85/85_26.pdf

Removal
IMPORTANT: Gimbal bearing and cartridge are a matched set and must be replaced as an assembly. Tolerance ring must be replaced any time gimbal bearing is removed.
IMPORTANT: Red dot on gimbal bearing cartridge must be positioned at 10 o’clock portside.
IMPORTANT: Ensure that notched edge of bearing cartridge faces inward in bore.
 

wellcraft-classic210

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 22, 2010
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839
Regarding your reply

That is exactly what I made. Stripped the thread!

What size thread ? Size matters here:D
 

Sashap

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 1, 2016
Messages
145
Got it! When I learned that the bearing can be turned sideways it was easy. Just drilled the aluminum carrier and chiseled and the thing cracked away. Then turn bearing to the missing part and it all just popped out. 10 minutes. Now I have to clean the shavings out and reinstall
 

Sashap

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 1, 2016
Messages
145
I used ready rod because it’s all I had. Regardless, it’s n the end rotate. Cut. Collapse. Pull out.
 

Rick Stephens

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Aug 13, 2013
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6,118
Got it! When I learned that the bearing can be turned sideways it was easy. Just drilled the aluminum carrier and chiseled and the thing cracked away. Then turn bearing to the missing part and it all just popped out. 10 minutes. Now I have to clean the shavings out and reinstall

Well, aren't you the destructive type :D Good on you.
 

Sashap

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May 1, 2016
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145
Now I have another issue. I can't get the gimbal bearing pushed in the full distance. It seems to be stuck either crooked or on some burr. I need to get something tomorrow that is big enough to place on the aluminum carrier so that I can hammer the crap out of it to insert it to the end.

I tried fitting the outdrive in the meantime to test fit. But I can't get it to go past approximately the distance of the mounting bolts. Something is preventing further insertion. I have to make an alignment tool on my lathe tomorrow also. What could be stopping the insertion? I also can't spin the prop to ensure the splines are in. as it is completely solid when inserted this far, so I assume the splines are in. Please correct me if I am wrong. What could be stopping the insertion? At how far in do the splines catch?

Help again?
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Do the same trick, freeze the carrier, drive it in. I would not want to drive one in without a well fitted driver.
 

thumpar

Admiral
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Jun 21, 2007
Messages
6,138
If the gimbal bearing is not all the way in the yoke on the U-joints is probably hitting it and stopping the drive from going further.
 

Sashap

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 1, 2016
Messages
145
Got it in finally. Weeks of rain...
it runs so quiet now.
Thanks all!
 

harringtondav

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May 26, 2018
Messages
2,450
Damn man, none that I've pulled gave up easily, but this is brutal. The slots mr 88 mentioned are on the inside. Someone installed it backward, and apparently crooked. You can still get the bearing out, if you have small fingers. Feel between the inside face of the bearing and the shaft seal until you find the slots. Mark their location and width with a Sharpie on the outside of the hsg. Then turn it as far as you can per mr 88. It will bind in the inside shaft seal, but you should have enough clearance to drill, dremmel, oscillate tool, etc. a slot thru the alum. hsg. ring View attachment Gimbal brg.pdf The spring steel tolerance ring should stop you before you damage the gimbal plate bore. Once you've got a clean split in the alum hsg. the brg assy will pull right out. Brutal. If you remove the bell hsg, this will be much less painful. Since your gimbal brg. is shot you're probably ready for all new new bellows anyway.
 

Merccoper

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Jun 23, 2018
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108
I read this thread with interest. I'm on hour 4 of trying to pull my bearing! Have a hammer puller, still will not budge! My wrist will never be the same for all the hammering! Think the neighbours are probably just as tired of the hammering as I am! Anyhow, I posted a note hoping I can borrow someones puller. If not, I may go the destructive route as well
 

Ed Harris

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Jan 7, 2016
Messages
217
Soaked mine in PB blast for 2 wks.. pulled on the fifth hit with the slide hammer. Froze new bearing for 2 weeks (i had some time on my hands) and used the old bearing case to hammer in the new bearing. Cut a 2x4 to fit just inside the old case. Drove in like a champ with a 2.5 lb hammer.
 
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