Gimbal bearing.

[alldodge]

Hmmm ok….looks like I’ll just leave the dang thing in then.

Ya need the same tool to remove/install the hose on the bell housing side

 

[ericcarr]

I figure there’s no need in replacing it if it’s not dry rotted or cracked or anything. There’s nothing wrong with that I just thought that since I had my drive and motor out that I will change it but oh well

 

[dubs283]

Hmmm ok….looks like I’ll just leave the dang thing in then.

You can remove the fitting without the special tool, it's just a socket that has four tabs on the O.D. to engage the splined portion of the insert. By the looks of the corrosion and buildup of crud even if you had the special tool most likely you'd be replacing the insert. Kinda funny how you got the bell housing side off but now you feel this is too much?

As I stated earlier, Bravo water passage hoses rarely fail, best to just leave it alone if all is good, ymmv

 

[ericcarr]

Hmmmm ok, I just thought about something. When I first bought this boat it had the bravo 1 drive on it, doesn’t the 1have an impeller located in the drive itself? The reason I’m asking is because I’m pretty sure it also had the impeller located on the starboard lower side of the engine .

 

[alldodge]

Brav

Hmmmm ok, I just thought about something. When I first bought this boat it had the bravo 1 drive on it, doesn’t the 1have an impeller located in the drive itself? The reason I’m asking is because I’m pretty sure it also had the impeller located on the starboard lower side of the engine .

Bravo does not have a impeller in the drive, only one on starboard side.

 

[ericcarr]

Hmmm ok that’s what I thought. Has anyone ever hooked up a hose directly to the pump instead of trying to use the muffs?

 

[alldodge]

Suse, with

Hmmm ok that’s what I thought. Has anyone ever hooked up a hose directly to the pump instead of trying to use the muffs?

Sure with drive removed, just connect hose to input bell housing connection.

Or remove belt to pump and connect hose to input connection at thermostat housing

 

[ericcarr]

Suse, with

Sure with drive removed, just connect hose to input bell housing connection.

Or remove belt to pump and connect hose to input connection at thermostat housing

I think that’s what I’m gonna try to do when I drop the motir in her to get her up & running…I hate them damn muffs….

 

[ericcarr]

Another question, pertaining to the bellows, has anybody on here ever ordered and installed the Bellows that aren’t so darn expensive? I mean I know the quicksilver Bellows kids are over $400, when you can get bellows kits on Amazon or eBay for right around 60 or 70

 

[Bondo]

Another question, pertaining to the bellows, has anybody on here ever ordered and installed the Bellows that aren’t so darn expensive? I mean I know the quicksilver Bellows kids are over $400, when you can get bellows kits on Amazon or eBay for right around 60 or 70

Ayuh,..... It's a false economy,....

I've run Sierra, 'n won't again,.....

 

[Rick Stephens]

Eric,

They have more issues in installation and staying attached than they save. At least with the Quicksilver stuff it last for a lot of years - especially if you remove your drive each winter and let the bellows relax.

 

[ericcarr]

Ayuh,..... It's a false economy,....

I've run Sierra, 'n won't again,.....

Have you ever ran any of them cheaper ones?

 

[dubs283]

Have you ever ran any of them cheaper ones?

Not worth it, go oem for bellows, impellers and electrical components

 

[Rick Stephens]

Have you ever ran any of them cheaper ones?

Not on your life. Mercruiser for anything rubber.

 

[nola mike]

I'm in the minority having run Sierra rubber bits without issue. Seems something else always breaks first, and I'm replacing the rubber before it wears out anyways. Last bellows are 4 years in and look brand new

 

[Scott06]

Have you ever ran any of them cheaper ones?

I ran a cheaper water pump impeller lasted about half as long as the oem impeller before engine temp started creeping up

 

[Lou C]

On the Cobra I’ve used the OE bellows & have gotten 10+ years out of them with the drive stored down. That’s about when you start to see small cracks beginning to form in the folds. That’s a sign the rubber is getting stiff and is due for replacement.

 

[ericcarr]

I'm in the minority having run Sierra rubber bits without issue. Seems something else always breaks first, and I'm replacing the rubber before it wears out anyways. Last bellows are 4 years in and look brand new

Are they the sierra kit?

 

[JASinIL2006]

Too many reports of problems with intallation and longevity of non-OEM bellows for me to even consider them. Changing the bellows is a major pain in the backside and I don't want to do it any more than absolutely necessary. If it costs me a couple hundred extra bucks, it's more than worth it. (Added to that is the catastrophic downside of having your bellows fail while on the water. I'll pass on that, thank you.)

 

[Lou C]

The price difference isn't even that much. We have this boat almost 20 years, bellows has been changed 2x once in 2005 and once in 2016. The OEM ones are only like $60 for the Cobra. I use OEM whenever I can for the bellows, impellers, fuel filters, etc. The price difference is really insignificant all things considered. The reality is that aftermarket is sometimes easier to find locally.