Gimbal replacement without removing entire pivot housing?

[kdiddle]

So while I have my drive unit (DP-SM) off, I was going to replace my gimbal bearing, but my Seloc manual goes into removing the entire pivot assembly (and marked as Difficult due to all the special tools required and such) before going into removing the gimbal bearing. This might be a completely stupid question, but can the gimbal not be knocked out with the pivot housing in place? I plan on also replacing the u-joint bellows, and it seems like you should be able to knock it out from inside the transom. Is that not the case?

 

[kdiddle]

For what its worth, my engine is already out so I figured access from inside would be pretty easy

 

[Lou C]

I have never heard of someone having to remove the pivot housing to change the gimble bearing. If you had water in the bellows it is wise to replace it. Not sure the best way to do it on this drive, I had mine done about 12 years ago and I have not had to replace it since then. If you turn it by hand it should feel 100% smooth. Any roughness suggests corrosion and pitting of the bearing races.

 

[kdiddle]

Thanks Lou. I couldn't for the life of me understand why all that would have to come off, especially with the engine out. I've been Googling all morning and it looks like most folks use a slide hammer for the job, but I might be able to just tap it out from inside since I have access to both sides. I had water in my bellows, so the bearing appears to have some rust in it from sitting. I do not want to go through this exercise again any time soon, so I'm replacing anything that's questionable...

 

[Lou C]

If you need to replace both the D/S bellows and the gimble bearing, it is easier to remove the pivot housing to do the bellows, for sure. Reason being that you can better tell that you got the gimble housing end of the bellows properly seated on the gimble flange. Some would take a short cut on the SX and remove the exhaust bellows, then tilt up the pivot housing and remove the driveshaft bellows, but it is tight in there and it is hard to see if you have the bellows properly seated. This is important esp if it is the first time you are doing it....

 

[robwny]

I agree with above gimble bearing is easy with out taking pivot housing off. We did put new bellows on without taking pivot housing off, was not fun but it can be done.

 

[Lou C]

There is a groove in the gimble flange and a rib in the sealing surface of the bellows. That rib has to fit in the groove. And the hose clamp belongs at about 1-2 O'clock position. You can see the ridge in this pic. When I did mine I cleaned up the gimble flange and used OMC gasket sealer, as per my shop manual.

 

[BRICH1260]

I replaced mine by removing the pivot housing and ring all as one unit. Much simpler this way. The two bolts at the top and tap out the pin on the bottom. With all this out of the way it’s much easier to make sure you get a good flush/seat of the new bearing in the transom plate tube.

Never heard of tapping it it out from inside, suppose it could be done, just make sure you push it out evenly so it doesn’t get **** eyed. Slide hammer from the rear works well. Most auto part stores will loan you the puller/slide.

 

[kdiddle]

Quick update and follow up question here. I was able to get the bearing out with the slide hammer / pilot bearing puller, and tapping the seal out from the inside (without an engine in the way) was a total breeze.

Now its time to swap the driveshaft bellows and you guys are right, its a tight fit with the pivot housing in place. For those suggesting to remove the pivot housing to get better access, are you saying to remove the two side screws/bearings (where pivot goes up/down) or are you referring to taking the entire gimbal housing off?

See attached. It looks like removing the highlighted screws will allow the part in red to come off, allowing access to the bellows, correct?

 

[Lou C]

Correct that is the way to do it, pick up some spare washers the go in between the 2 parts because they can get worn and torn up. I used Evinrude triple guard grease to keep them in place when putting it all together and OMC gasket sealer on the threads of those boots to prevent corrosion and make them come out easy the next time. On the OMC Cobra these boots are a simple hex but I think on the Volvo they take a special tool....

 

[Lou C]

that should have said BOLTS, not boots! Always use OMC gasket sealer, Merc perfect seal or Permatex Aviation sealer on any bolts that go into an outdrive. Much better than anti seize which can cause problems in brackish water. The gasket sealer does not get hard and allows you to remove the bolts without breaking anything.
Also: when you reinstall the drive, grease the driveshaft splines with triple guard grease. Do not grease the 2 o rings on the shaft, just use motor oil on them. Coat the mating surfaces of the drive and pivot housing with triple guard. If these are installed dry you can get corrosion right where the studs go into the pivot housing and the drive can get stuck on. This happens on the Volvo SXs but not on the OMC Cobras because they used a gasket there which Volvo eliminated. Also lastly use gasket sealer on the threads of the 6 studs as well. Makes the next removal easier.

 

[kdiddle]

Nice, thanks for the details Lou. I can't say enough good stuff about this site and the folks that are on it. Its making this whole process a whole lot less anxiety ridden!

 

[Lou C]

These are the tricks I have learned from reading my OMC factory shop manual, talking to professional mechanics and maintaining an I/O kept in the water here in the salt pond, Long Island Sound region. You see things you may never see in fresh water.
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