), and keep spinning the push rod back and forth while slowly tightening the nut. When you think you have reached that point, back the nut off and verify that you have a little up and down play, then tighten it again to the point where the play is removed. Then add the 3/4" turn. This has always worked for me. Good luck!
http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp <br /><br /> http://www.centuryperformance.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=278 <br /><br />I did mine per manual #26, at 3/4 turn down from zero lash, and while the motor sounded ok and still ran up to 4600 rpm, I came across the above and decided to readjust the valves per century's advice. First way I did it with motor running, and 3/4 turn (270deg) down. Second time was with motor off but warm; I loosened all the rocker nuts so there was a good amount of play between the rocker and pushrod, cranked engine couple times to ensure lifters were pumped up, then went 3/16 turn (halfway between 1/8 and 1/4) turn down from zero. I followed the sequence in the manual, but at the end cylinder #4 had gobs of play between the pushrod and the rocker, so I ended up doing that one separate and then double checked each cylinder individually. Anyone run into this?<br />Anyway motor started up fine, and noticed idle was much higher than before, so I had to readjust that. Engine sounded smoother and hummed nicer in the 4000 rpm range, which is where I run it all the time for skiing. I can honestly say from experience, that for me the 3/4 turn down was probably too tight. At high rpm and wot the engine sounded different... hard to explain the sound, but I'm glad I readjusted them. Take it for what it's worth.
