going to take the head off my force

my new fishmaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
256
Does any know if taking the head off involves the pistons. I am worried that one of the pistons will be in the head? Or do the pistons stay with the powerhead. Is this just a matter of unbolting the cover&head in sequence then bolting it back on like the clymer manual says. 96 serial# on 138600 75,90 and 120 hp models use a new torque procedure for the cylinder head bolts. Oil the threads and the underside of the head, torque in sequence to 120in-lbs. Then turn each head bolt, in sequence, an additional 90degrees. Is this that simple for installing a new head or could I have problems with warpage. The problem I am having is the top sparkplug hole when I turn the flywheel clockwise and spray oil on the plug I can here a small amount of compression leaking. Would adding a thread compounds like locktight be a good solution to seal around the threads?
 

byordy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 13, 2001
Messages
114
Re: going to take the head off my force

Hi, is that the motor that you had the cross threaded plug in? If so, a couple of questions.<br />Does the plug tighten securly and did you torque it to spec?<br />Is the plug "bottomed out" against the seat or is it slightly crooked (this may be hard to see)?<br />Assuming that the leak is around the base of the plug, the actual seal is made by the gasket at the base of the plug. If the surface of the plug seat in the head is not damaged, the gasket is good, and the seating surface of the plug is good then it should seal if the plug is torqued to spec. <br />Things to check if you haven't all ready done so;<br />Seating surface in the head, spark plug seating surface and gasket, and spark plug torque.<br />If the plug is damaged it's possible, but unlikely, that the plug itself could be leaking if it's internal seal is damaged. One other possibility, again unlikely, is a crack in the head itself.<br />Good Luck,<br />Bill.......
 

dmessy

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 8, 2001
Messages
505
Re: going to take the head off my force

I'd advise against using thread repair compounds like locktight on the sparkplug threads. Check the threads in your cylinder head very carefully using a good flashlight. Be positive the threads are stripped b4 you do anything. If they are stripped, use a helicoil for repair. If you've never installed a helicoil find someone who has and enlist his/her help. This can probably be done without pulling the head and very cheaply. It is a premanent fix. The pistons are in the block so have no fear. The head is probably not warped and if it were you would be experiencing blown head gaskets resulting in either h2o entering the suspect cylinder and/or low compression.<br />Keep us informed on what you find upon closer inspection. Good luck....
 

my new fishmaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
256
Re: going to take the head off my force

There is no crack in the head its like a brand new engine. I belive that the searay dealer in Pheonix screwed up this engine. They put NGK plugs in which have a slightly different thread pattern. The guy I bought the boat from said he had them checkout the engine. Guess it was not holding fuel pressure or something.
 

byordy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 13, 2001
Messages
114
Re: going to take the head off my force

Sound like time for a Helicoil. It's not a major undertaking. I had to have 3 put in an old Flying Scott years ago and as dmessy says, it's a permanent repair. Just make sure that you take it to someone who knows what they are doing. A good automotive machine shop might be a good choice. <br />Bill..........
 

my new fishmaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
256
Re: going to take the head off my force

I talked to the orignial owner he is willing to pay the 157 for the head kit. On force engines does it matter if the head is not a matched set like the powerhead and crank cover must match the manual says.
 

byordy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 13, 2001
Messages
114
Re: going to take the head off my force

I don't think the heads have to be matched to the block. The reason the block and crankcase have to be matched is because they are first assembled and then line bored as a unit. This is done to insure tight tolerances on the crank bearing surfaces.<br />Some head gaskets require gasket sealer, some don't. Be sure you know which type you have. The torque specs are critical. Don't try it "close enough" by hand. Be sure a working torque wrench is used. After you run it for a few hours check the torque again after the motor cools down. <br />If you're not confident with all of this it might pay to have someone do it for you.<br />After you get through this I'm sure you'll have many happy hours with your Force. <br />Bill.........
 

my new fishmaster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
256
Re: going to take the head off my force

I have read the manual it says only a gasket will be needed. Should I start with #14 then 13 in removing the head bolts. I purchased a torque wrench from Sears for $25. I am leaning toward just buying a new head because I would need to drive to SLC drop off the part in hopes they could install the helicoil in time for labor day. I am guessing that I should very lightly put all the bolts in place then start with #1. Can anyone tell me if my engine is just like the merc 75hp,yamaha block? My dealer is telling me the force is not a good motor and with the new emission regulations coming its only good for a ancor. He is full of it in my book and does not realize mine is just like the merc. This is the same guy that had 15k boats for sale without a windsheild. Mines nicer than his and I only spent 6k including the motor.
 

byordy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 13, 2001
Messages
114
Re: going to take the head off my force

With the motor cold the sequence in removing the head bolts is not particularly critical. When installing the head the final torque setting and torque sequence is very critical, however. I'm sure someone on this board will have those specs for you. <br />On installation first follow the sequence and torque the bolts to 1/3 the final value, then follow it again to 2/3 the final value and finally follow the sequence to arrive at the final torque value. After you run the motor a few hours torque the bolts again with the motor cold. <br />As far as I know the emmission regulations affect only new motor sales, not presently owned motors. As far as the motor being only good for a boat anchor, that's nonsense.<br />If you maintain the motor well, use good fuel and the best oil, decarbon when necessary, and do not overheat it, you'll have many happy hours with that motor. <br />From what I gather Forces have a tendency to make more carbon than other motors (don't know why) and therefore it is important to keep them "clean" by using the best oil and fuel available. <br />Bill........
 
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