JustJason
Vice Admiral
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2007
- Messages
- 5,321
Re: good pair of crimpers
Meh.... And just who does the ABYC and old Skip think he is.
ABYC is nothing more that 1 guy (skip burdon) and a couple of buddies that sat down and started writing essentially a NEC (national electric code) for boats. After Skip wrote his book/standards. He sold the NMMA (national marine manufactorers association) on the idea of using his standards instead of NMMA's.
It is nothing more than a selling point for boat builders to follow NMMA and now ABYC rules. When selling their product they will say that their boat is NMMA/ABYC compliant, in hopes that a competitors product is not. That doesn't necessarilly mean anything.
Now there is nothing wrong with NMMA/ABYC standards by themselves, there's a lot of good ideas in there. But keep this in mind, NMMA/ABYC standards is in no way a state or federal law that must be followed, unlike the NEC (nat elec code) which is law. NMMA/ABYC is more like a guidline of suggestions.
That being said. In my own boat I have made both solder and crimp repairs over the years.... depending on the repair, and depending on my mood.
When ever I do customers boats, they all get crimps. It's more cost effective. I can lay 10 crimps with shrinkwrap in the same amount of time it takes me to fire up the soldering iron and do 1 solder joint. The other thing to think of is this also... What would happen to the cost of a new boat if the ABYC said solder on all joints... So i'm sure there was some policiting that happened when they were contemplating that rule.
As far as what you should do.... Either 1 is fine if you know how to solder and/or have a decent crimper.
What I do is load up the end of a crimp with dielectric grease. Double crimp the wire in place. Wipe of any extra grease that came out during the crimp. Put liquid electric tape on the crimp and about an inch beyond the crimp up the wire, then the repair gets heatshrinked. Make for a watertight, and plenty strong enough repair for me.
Meh.... And just who does the ABYC and old Skip think he is.
ABYC is nothing more that 1 guy (skip burdon) and a couple of buddies that sat down and started writing essentially a NEC (national electric code) for boats. After Skip wrote his book/standards. He sold the NMMA (national marine manufactorers association) on the idea of using his standards instead of NMMA's.
It is nothing more than a selling point for boat builders to follow NMMA and now ABYC rules. When selling their product they will say that their boat is NMMA/ABYC compliant, in hopes that a competitors product is not. That doesn't necessarilly mean anything.
Now there is nothing wrong with NMMA/ABYC standards by themselves, there's a lot of good ideas in there. But keep this in mind, NMMA/ABYC standards is in no way a state or federal law that must be followed, unlike the NEC (nat elec code) which is law. NMMA/ABYC is more like a guidline of suggestions.
That being said. In my own boat I have made both solder and crimp repairs over the years.... depending on the repair, and depending on my mood.
When ever I do customers boats, they all get crimps. It's more cost effective. I can lay 10 crimps with shrinkwrap in the same amount of time it takes me to fire up the soldering iron and do 1 solder joint. The other thing to think of is this also... What would happen to the cost of a new boat if the ABYC said solder on all joints... So i'm sure there was some policiting that happened when they were contemplating that rule.
As far as what you should do.... Either 1 is fine if you know how to solder and/or have a decent crimper.
What I do is load up the end of a crimp with dielectric grease. Double crimp the wire in place. Wipe of any extra grease that came out during the crimp. Put liquid electric tape on the crimp and about an inch beyond the crimp up the wire, then the repair gets heatshrinked. Make for a watertight, and plenty strong enough repair for me.
