H20 #1 cyl..

[speedwrench]

'96 Force 75. Lost power, would not run over 4200 RPM. (5200 before). #1 cyl had water. Checked compression 132-135-133. Pulled exhaust plate, did not show any evidence of leakage. Plate was warped, straightened it and new gaskets. Still same problem, 4200 max rpm, #1 plug steam cleaned. Pulled exhaust plate again, still no evidence of gasket leakage. New plate and gaskets. No help. Got to be head gasket. Wrong. It looked good, no leakage. Cylinder walls in good shape, no scoring, carbon build up not bad. New head gasket. Compression 130-135-132. Max rpm now 3300 and still water getting into #1. <br />What am I missing? At this rate I believe I can have it not running at all in a week!

 

[ledgefinder]

Re: H20 #1 cyl..

/\ bump<br /><br />Cracked water jacket? Any Force experts out there?

 

[speedwrench]

Re: H20 #1 cyl..

Thanks, looked it over good when head and exhaust cover off, could not find anything, but it's beginning to look like crack may be problem. Is there anywhere they are prone to crack. Engine has not been overheated and never in salt water so where from here?. It's driving me nuts.

 

[jim dozier]

Re: H20 #1 cyl..

There was a similar post about a month ago. The guy had a Force and he checked the head gasket and it looked OK but after several discussions on this forum he checked the head for warpage and found some. He had the head decked at a machine shop and the problem was solved. Maybe you too?

 

[speedwrench]

Re: H20 #1 cyl..

OK, beat head back off. All still looks good. no<br />sign of any leakge. <br />Checked head for straight: .002 low between 1&2, <br />.003 low between 2&3. Clymer manual says .012 or worse. No sign of any cracks in the cylinders when pistons are at BDC. Cylinder walls look good.<br />Is there any way it can leak on the intake side. <br />This manual does not have a real good illustration <br />of where all the water jackets are. <br />Help, I'm too hardheaded to give up, and it's got to me. <br />

 

[jim dozier]

Re: H20 #1 cyl..

I am not personally familiar with your engine. I would think that the only places where water could enter the combusiton chamber in order of likelyhood are:<br />1. Cylinder head gasket<br />2. Exhaust cover gasket<br />3. Cracked cooling channel in the head or block.<br /><br />I can see why you are perplexed as you seem to have covered the bases. I recommend that you have the heads machined while you have them off. It is relatively inexpensive and it will eliminate one common problem. I am assuming you used new head gaskets before and will again along with the proper torques in sequence. Good luck

 

[speedwrench]

Re: H20 #1 cyl..

Powerhead is on the bench. No sign if leakage between exhaust plate. #1 cyl intake ports are stained brownish tan, #'s 2&3 ports are clean. All exhaust ports are clean. Intake side of all pistons are clean. #1 piston no carbon. #2 normal carbon. #3 carbon top piston is normal, exhaust side is starting to flake off like it is seeing some water, plug did not show any. Have not removed the cast iron exhaust downleg yet.What am I looking for? <br /><br />I've got be be missing something. <br /><br />Will probally have head cut, not sure it's really necessary, but working ob not my favorite thing. Closest place with equipment and IQ to do it is 100+ mile round trip so want to be sure I take it all if there's something else that could need machine work.. <br />What am I overlooking???

 

[speedwrench]

Re: H20 #1 cyl..

Pulled exhaust down leg (aluminum, not cast iron like it looked). Gasket between it and power head <br />bad, leaking exhaust into water jacket, and I suppose water into exhaust. <br />Is this enough to cause the problem? Or do I need to keep looking?<br />I'm new to outboards but I'm learning fast.

 

[jim dozier]

Re: H20 #1 cyl..

Since you've pretty much covered the other possibilities I would guess that's the culprit.