Hard to start after warming 2014 Starcraft with Volvo 5.0 270 hp.

[Coltrickle]

I bought a 2014 start craft with the volve 5.0 270 hp inboard.. The first start of the day it runs a the first bump of the key.. After I ride for 10 minutes or so and shut it off to swim or whatever it has to be turned over a good bit before it will start again.. Usually it takes about 5-6 seconds and when I release the key it will act as if it wants to run then dies.. The next turn of the key it takes 3-5 seconds to crank then idle drops way down comes back up and once running it's perfect.. By if I shut it down again it starts all over.. It never failed to start but we have only used this boat 10 times max and here in the last 2-3 trips it has developed this issue.. It used to always crank with the first bump of the switch.. Any thoughts??

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Is this a Carbed, or Efi motor,..??

 

[Coltrickle]

It is fuel injected.. Looks to me like the old chevrolet throttle body style.. I can't get the spark arrest or off to see in there.. Also I bought the boat new last year.. This is why I'm bothered.. It did not do it last year nor did it do this the first 2-3 trips this year.. Just the last few.. And as I stated it never fails to start it just doesn't seem right with it not hitting right on the first attempt! And thanks for te speedy reply!!

 

[Coltrickle]

Thoughts?

 

[scutty]

I think I have the same set up just older. 2005 270hp, 5.0 GXI-E, SX-M Drive in a 21ft Four Winns. I have similar problems with hot starts and I did two things that seem to help. I started to use a fuel stabilizer on every fill up. This had a noticeable impact. The other thing I do is avoid turning off the motor hot. I try to let it idle a few seconds after running hard. It still happens occasionally mostly when the air temperature is above 85 but it is manageable. I'm interested to hear if anyone else on this forum has any ideas or suggestions. Coltrickle, Please keep posting your findings. You have at least one person to commiserate
with. Thanks in advance.

 

[Coltrickle]

Will do scutty!! I believe that's the same engine but I have a sx-a out drive I think.. I have always used ethanol free gas in my boats because I have seen what it can do to outboard carbs when they sit over winter.. But I'm baffled.. I have read where paint flakes from over spray get into the fuel pumps because they over sprayed on the surface which they mount.. And have caused clogging which overheat the fuel pumps and they are around 800 bucks for one of them.. I still have warranty on my boat and may just take it in to see what they cAn find.. Of course when I call them they have never heard of this happening!! Which is why I would like to know all I can about the issue!!

 

[Coltrickle]

Scutty, I have started to allow my engine to idle 10-15 seconds before shutting it down and it always starts first bump of the switch now... Still a weird problem but the idle before off remedied it!!

 

[scutty]

Hey Coltrickle, Great news! Glad to hear this little trick is helping out. Unfortunately for me, even with everything I have suggested, the problem has come back for me this past Aug. I'll post back anything learn.

Any one else on this thread have any ideas of what to look for?

 

[four winns 214]

A shot in the dark........I had a starting issue with my 5.0 GXiB that was finally traced to a cracked rotor. The rotor had been replaced as part of pre-season maintenance. The mechanic said it was a bad part, but my money is that he cracked it during installation. Once a new rotor was installed, end of problem.

 

[scutty]

Thanks FW214, The ignition side is the first thing all my local marinas point me to. I've done caps, rotors, plugs, check coils etc and no real change. I'm going to check out the fuel side next then the MAP and Temp sender.

 

[Coltrickle]

Scutty, my boat is still under warranty. I'm thinking of taking it in and letting them go through to see what they find or if the manufacturer has any ideas.. I have tried to contact Volvo and Starcraft directly to no avail.. Both websites say to contact your local dealer!! What a bunch mess.. Let me know if you come across anything and I'll do the same!

 

[scutty]

I read on some other posts that if the pressure is high the engine could be running rich and cause injectors to leak which could lead to a hard start after you have been running a while. So I put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail and it was fine with the key on (not cranking) ~55psi. But as soon as I started the engine it shot up to 80psi and bounced rapidly between 70 and 80psi at idle and also rev'ing up to a few 1000 rpm. I pulled the regulator and the screen was dirty but didn't looked clogged. I found a replacement fuel regulator with the e-clip mod already done. (~$110) It turned out to be an Audi part 078133534C. The one I took off the boat was a GM 12568878. Looks like you can find them on line for ~$60-80. The e-clip is not standard. The only place I could find it separately was here at iboats. Both regulators stamped 4.0 bar(~58psi). While I was in there I took apart the whole fuel cell assembly and found flaking black paint everywhere. Cleaned carefully, re-assembled, re-installed. Put in the new regulator and the high pressure rail sat at ~55 psi perfectly steady under all conditions. I did not run the engine very long, and did not attempt to replicate the hot start problem but this was probably a good thing to take care of regardless. I'll have to let you know in the spring how she runs.
Hope this is helpful.

 

[Coltrickle]

Scutty, when you say fuel cell assy. Are you speaking of the tank itself or something else.. Also what is this e-clip your mentioning?? Thanks

 

[scutty]

Sorry, The fuel cell is volvo's fancy name for the whole fuel filter and pump assembly mounted on the front left of your engine (5.0L GXI-E). If you search around the web for "fuel cell whine" or "fuel pump paint clogging" you get tons of hits. For some reason VP painted the *inside* of the assembly with a black paint that flakes off and clogs all the filter screens. And all this stuff sheds off *after* the fuel filter!. Mine was a mess but 30 min with some solvent, air hose and rags cleaned it up nice.
The e-clip modification is noted in Bulletin P237-3-01. The screen on the return side of the pressure regulator can get clogged by this gunk and by blocking the return line the regulator won't regulate and you get high pressure on the rail. In my case I probably did not have to replace the regulator but I didn't want to take the extra step.
Hope this helps.

 

[Coltrickle]

I had read this before too.. That's why I have been worried.. It will supposedly burn up the fuel pumps.. And if you look them up they are very expensive!!! One of them is 7-800 bucks!! Thanks for the pics