Hard to start trick for my 2 cycle Johnson 90 HP - finally figured this out!

ib18

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Hard to start trick for my 2 cycle Johnson 90 HP - My motor has been hard to start in 2016 when cold. I did raise my remote control "lever" (the single flat piece on the top of my Johnson 90hp remote control box) up to open the choke, and turned the key and pressed in for a few times (5 times) to squirt gas/oil into the cylinders to try to start. The motor did crank by the starting motor but would not fire up. I had to open the motor cover, and manually pulled the throttle handle on the engine itself all the way to me to let more air/gas into the cylinders.

I then went back to my seat, and turned the key and pressed down and choked a few times, and then turn the key to start the motor. Voila, the motor fired up but the engine ran like crazy.

So, I had to slowly push the throttle handle on the engine back until it always rest against its wall to slow the engine down.

Well, the engine was cold again after a whole day fishing using my trolling motor. The engine will not fire up unless I opened the cover and manually pulled the throttle handle towards me. This does fire up the engine, but it is a pain in the butt to put the cover back on especially in the ocean when the boat is rocking back and forth. It is hard to cover the engine back securely.

Any suggestions?

I just started my old Johnson 90 hp this President's weekend and used it once on the Potomac river for 2 miles only after many upgrades to the boat including (1) Hydraulic steering, (2) Motorguide wireless trolling motor, (3) added a fishing pedestal chair in the stern of the boat, and (4) Fixed my remote control to tilt and trim my motor. Hate to waste money on a new outboard, but hard to start is a big pain in the butt. boatride.jpg
 

GA_Boater

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Try raising the warm up lever more and push the key while cranking. I think the enrichener needs fuel pressure to squirt gas into the carb.

Lower the warmup lever slowly until the motor idles.
 

daselbee

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You are using the wrong starting procedure. Pressing five times is not correct.

Raise lever, and hold key IN while cranking. When starts, keep feathering the key in and out as necessary to keep it running.

Lower lever when warmed up sufficiently to keep running.
 

ib18

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Thanks guys! you are the best as always. I cannot remember whether I pressed the key down while turning the key to crank the motor. I thought I only pressed it in to hear the clicks so the oil/gas can be squirt into the cylinders. I didn't need to pressed the key in as I turn the key to try to start the motor. I am surprised how I was able to start the motor so easily in 2014 and 2015. Thanks guys!
 

bob johnson

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you never said what year your 90 hp is...but the correct procedure starts with pumping the primer bulb till FIRM...that's got to happen first!

then you push the key in and HOLD IT FOR & seconds or so and then you turn and push the key in..... if the motor is running good, you don't even need to give the throttle warm up lever a touch!...if it doesn't fire HOLD the key in for 7 seconds again and try to start...... you can then try and move the idle throttle lever up a little...if it doesn't start, go back and RE_PRIME the bulb....you HAVE TO HAVE A PRESSURIZED FUEL SUPPLY for the "choke" enricher to work....


I run my ourboard all winter long...even as low as 0 degrees!!....YES ZERO DEGREES...... you need a good battery, a good starter and you need to follow the proceedures... once you play with the idel throttle lever you shut off QUICKSTART..... if you start it without the lever moved...it will go into quickstart and idle a little faster than normal...until you move the throttle lever....... so let it idle for a minute.... I start my V6's in about 20-30 seconds... and if its real cold, I have to go back and reprime...or the motor wont start...I imagine because it needs more gas than a V4

good luck


PUSH and HOLD THE KEY IN...lets fuel flow while you have it pushed in....if you push and let go...you get a squirt and then it stops...so each PUSH gives you a shot of gas....but you need MORE than just a squirt..... push and hold

bob
 

ib18

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wow, thanks for excellent detailed tips. I never press and hold for that many seconds - I thought it as just push and let go and repeat 5 to 6 times. I will try that next week. The winter weather is almost done here in DC. This Thursday and Friday will rise to over 70 degrees. Some of the trees are blooming with flowers already. Cherry trees will bloom earlier than previous years. Definitely get my boat on the water more in 2017. My motor is an old 1982 motor, and the boat is a 1974 wellcraft. I am slowly improving this boat.

BTW, I found my top hole of the Lower unit missing a plastic washer when I was checking the lower gear oil. So, added one and no more lower unit oil leak.

Thanks again for all your excellent expert help!
 

bob johnson

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well since your motor is that old, I am not sure the method I described is designed for your motor...your motor may have a regular choke!! many motors in the 90s didn't have 'chokes" they had enrichers which shot gas directly into the intake manifolds....maybe someone who is more familiar with early 80s motors can chime in.....your electric choke might just be a mechanism that closes the plates in the carbs!!!!
 

GA_Boater

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well since your motor is that old, I am not sure the method I described is designed for your motor...your motor may have a regular choke!! many motors in the 90s didn't have 'chokes" they had enrichers which shot gas directly into the intake manifolds....maybe someone who is more familiar with early 80s motors can chime in.....your electric choke might just be a mechanism that closes the plates in the carbs!!!!

If it does have a real choke, you can push the key in all day long before cranking it over and it won't help starting. Push the key in and crank is the way to use a real choke.
 

laurentide

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If it does have a real choke, you can push the key in all day long before cranking it over and it won't help starting. Push the key in and crank is the way to use a real choke.


Correct. Mine is an '82 with a choke solenoid. The method is: get fuel to the pump/carbs using the primer bulb. Raise the neutral throttle lever all the way. Turn and push the key in at the same time. Release the key after a couple of seconds while still cranking it. Pushing the key in activates the choke solenoid. This works 100% of the time when cold for me.
 

GA_Boater

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I hold the choke until the first pop, then release it. That's my 100% cold start.

Each motor has a little secret you need to learn for reliable cold starts.
 

bob johnson

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If it does have a real choke, you can push the key in all day long before cranking it over and it won't help starting. Push the key in and crank is the way to use a real choke.

that's one reason every OP should state the year and possibly the model # of his motor if at all possible!!!!!!!!!!
 

racerone

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?---Not sure why there is so much confusion here.---Facts----The electric primer was first used on all V-4 motors from 1980 and newer !-----The electric primer is NOT a pump.-----When there is no fuel pressure pushing in the key does nothing !----The small lever on the control box is throttle only and it is NOT a choke.-----Key is to be pushed in while cranking for near instant starting !
 

ezmobee

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Johnson/Evinrude switched from the choke to a primer circuit in 1981.
 

racerone

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Sorry----The official factory manual for the 1980 V-4 models has repair instructions for the electric primer.---------The Evinrude parts website shows the electric primer on 1980 models.---------Other website also shows same part # from 1980 models to 2005 models.
 

bob johnson

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well then, that's good news for the OP....I think the most important thing for him to grasp then is that the fuel line needs to have PRESSURE... and then he would know that pushing in the key OPENS the primer valve...and as long as it is OPEN and there is PRESSURE....gas will flow into into the manifold.
 

racerone

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Correct.-----Sort of like the garden hose when valve at the house is open.-----You operate the sprayer valve and out pours the water.-----Now close the valve at the house and operate the sprayer.---------You will get a bit of a spray , then nothing as pressure drops off quickly.
 

GA_Boater

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Can we agree on this - Whether the motor is choke or primer, you need to start it the right way.

From ib18's posts he wasn't choking or priming while cranking the motor. He should be able to get his cold motor running with all of our help.
 

oldboat1

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If you are pulling the throttle open at the motor to aid starting, it sounds to me like you might be relieving a flooding condition (might call into question your starting procedure -- could also mean that your primer valve isn't working quite correctly, maybe leaking.)

Additionally, I wonder if your throttle cable might be slipping or otherwise need adjustment. It is strange if you need to make a couple of trips back to the motor to adjust and readjust the throttle position. Maybe you are disconnecting and then reconnecting the cable(?)
 

interalian

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If you are pulling the throttle open at the motor to aid starting, it sounds to me like you might be relieving a flooding condition (might call into question your starting procedure -- could also mean that your primer valve isn't working quite correctly, maybe leaking.)

Additionally, I wonder if your throttle cable might be slipping or otherwise need adjustment. It is strange if you need to make a couple of trips back to the motor to adjust and readjust the throttle position. Maybe you are disconnecting and then reconnecting the cable(?)

I'd say that if the throttle is being manually pulled farther than it would go when moving the start lever on the control, the effect is taking up the slack in the throttle cable. Might be a good idea to see if the cable has more slack than it should have.

That said, with proper priming and starting technique, the additional timing advance should not be needed.

1) Pump fuel bulb until firm
2) Lift start lever on the control box fully
3) Press key IN whilst turning to it START position to crank the motor
4) As soon as it fires, start 'feathering' the primer by dabbing the key IN, and lower the start lever to drop the idle as it warms up
5) Once it'll idle without having the start lever up, go fishin', skiing or whatever
 

laurentide

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Ya, sorry for adding to the confusion, my '82 is a 3 cylinder with a choke. Not a v4.
 
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