Re: Has anyone actually used Wolmanized plywood?
Personally, there is no way would I leave the bottom without a coating. "One side bare" is for wood that gets ventillation...the underside of the floor gets zero ventillation and is just a humidity chamber to produce rot (but wood doesn't rot if totally saturated either - long ago wood boatbuilders submerged logs for years to preserve them). Sealing the edges is more critical than sealing the skin because they will wick all the way through. <br />Not to scare you but the downside of using poly without glass is it doesn't glue the wood together like epoxy does...which means you have a better chance of the ply checking. Heavy thinning helps prevent this. I don't think rot is a problem with pt as much as water saturation weight is anyway.<br /><br />Depending on how much thinner and how thick you make the coating about 1 to 1-1/2 qts per sheet do it for me.
Personally, there is no way would I leave the bottom without a coating. "One side bare" is for wood that gets ventillation...the underside of the floor gets zero ventillation and is just a humidity chamber to produce rot (but wood doesn't rot if totally saturated either - long ago wood boatbuilders submerged logs for years to preserve them). Sealing the edges is more critical than sealing the skin because they will wick all the way through. <br />Not to scare you but the downside of using poly without glass is it doesn't glue the wood together like epoxy does...which means you have a better chance of the ply checking. Heavy thinning helps prevent this. I don't think rot is a problem with pt as much as water saturation weight is anyway.<br /><br />Depending on how much thinner and how thick you make the coating about 1 to 1-1/2 qts per sheet do it for me.