HELP ! 55HP Johnson motor not shifting out of forward

[Thomas Carson]

Hello, I have read a bunch of forums on this but to no avail. I was wondering if you may be able to give me a hand on solving my problem. Motor shifted perfectly but after removing the lower unit to change the water pump impeller it only goes in forward now. I can hear the solenoid moving inside the lower unit when i shift it and i am getting proper voltage on wires based on all the forums i have read. It just doesn't seem to be engaging anything. I have used type "c" lower unit and filled it to the top. I can start from zero drain everything and remove the lower unit if you have a solution. But not sure if there a specific way i should have placed the solenoid down into the lower unit? Is there a pin in the lower unit that the solenoid moves? Should the prop move freely when i take the lower unit off and have the solenoid out ? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[racerone]

A 1968 mor 1969 3 cylinder motor.------------Motor must be running in order to shift !--------The shift is not done by the solenoids directly.-------They direct oil pressure to do the shifting.-----Start the motor or turn flywheel with a wrench and see if it shifts.

 

[jimmbo]

What all did you remove on the gearcase when you changed the water pump? You mentioned messing with the shift solenoids, why did you touch them?

 

[F_R]

No need to remove the solenoids. Normal procedure is to disconnect the wires. I suppose you did get them back in out of alignment or something. It would be very difficult to R&R them without undoing the wires.

But mostly---as racer asked, is it running?

 

[Thomas Carson]

When i removed the lower unit I didn't touch the gears. I wasn't sure what the two wires were for at the time that went up the shaft. I removed the lower unit by taking out the solenoid, otherwise i didn't have enough length to take lower unit off " PROBABLY MY BIGGEST MISTAKE" Should have just disconnected the wires at the motor... DAM!

Boat ran extremely well yesterday with no reverse. I attempted to put it in neutral and reverse when running but it only went into forward. Is there a pump i can look at for the lower unit fluid.
Should I take the lower unit off? pull the solenoid and place it back in there?
When I do, Is there a way to place the solenoid back in correctly?
Should the prop spin freely if the solenoid is out of it? If yes, how do I get it to do this?

 

[racerone]

You mis-understand-----When the lower unit is not turning it will be in forward gear !----The clutch dog is spring loaded to go into forward.-----Solenoids in or out of the gearcase has no affect on this.

 

[racerone]

The solenoids are not directly connected / linked to the clutchdog !

 

[Thomas Carson]

No Title

I see, no matter what the prop will always be in gear. I did find these two pieces on the ground when i took the lower unit off when turned it over to get all the oil out. Does it look like something that belongs in the lower unit that will effect the shifting? I didn't think much of it because its a 50 year old motor and not sure if they just fell out from a previous fix.

 

[F_R]

I don't recognize the two pieces. But if I may, let me explain how the system works. It is NOT an electric shift. It IS a hydraulic shift. All the electric solenoids do is operate a couple of oil flow control valves.

The gear oil in the lower unit doubles as the hydraulic fluid. An oil pump in the nose of the unit supplies the oil pressure. The solenoids close one or two valves that direct oil pressure to the clutch dog, which selects the gear.

If the motor is not running, the oil pump is not turning, no oil pressure, no shift. Under such a condition, it will default to forward gear.

If any other defect, it also defaults to forward (usually). Sometimes dirt in the oil makes it stick in another gear.

I suggest you disconnect the wires at the top and pull the lower unit off again, wires and all. The wires will come down with the unit. TIE A STRING OR SOMETHING on them to aid in getting them back up in place. Now remove and reinstall the solenoids, making sure the rods go where they are supposed to.

 

[oldboat1]

think higher viscosity oil might be needed (probably chose the type-C on the assumption it's an electric gearcase). Not sure that you would lose function with the type-C, but maybe it doesn't provide proper pressure(?) Would probably clean out the gearcase pretty well, anyway.

shouldn't be finding any gearcase oil by inverting the l.u., but maybe some water and exhaust nasties. Keep all "spare" parts -- might use a small magnet if you have the l.u. off again (see if there is anything else).

 

[racerone]

This unit requires type-C gear oil to be used.

 

[oldboat1]

^^Thanks R. (Type C it is, Thomas.)

 

[Thomas Carson]

Ok, ill give it a try next week. Crossing my fingers ..enjoy your Memorial Day

 

[Thomas Carson]

No Title

Hello guys who have been helping me with this. Well its been a few weeks and i have been driving the boat with no reverse or neutral. I decided today to check the lower unit oil and its all milky white with water in it.
Any suggestions on what gaskets to change ?

In terms of the solenoid, I now understand what you mean by the gear oil flowing. I have added some pictures of the solenoid and lower unit. Can you tell me when i place the solenoid back into the lower unit how should it seat. I see a hole down there in the lower unit. Should the solenoid bottom sit directly over that hole to plug it up ? It has a triangular body, is there a reason for that?

 

[Tim Frank]

The OEM manual for that motor is available on eBay and would cost you LT $30-.
Considering your adventures to this point, it would be a sound investment.
If you are going to open up the LU, it is a must.

 

[Thomas Carson]

Thanks everyone for your help I cant believe it but i got it to work after playing around with it.

 

[Tim Frank]

What did you "play with" that sealed the leaks in the gear-case?

 

[Watermann]

Glad you got the problem fixed and that I have a newer model with mechanical shift :lol:

The prop shaft seals are usually the ones that go bad, at least on my 55 HP Johnson, fishing line was the culprit. I also changed out the upper driveshaft seals while I was at it. The carrier can sometimes be a real bear to get out of the gear case.