Hi all,
Long time lurker, reaping free advice, first time poster. Glad you guys are here!!!!
I have an old Aero Marine 4hp 2 stroke - integrated fuel tank and air cooled. Great little motor I picked up last September for my 9.5 ft Bass Hound.
Anyway, after picking it up I wanted to try it out before the winter season. I took it to a small 260 acre lake and it fired right up on the third pull and some choke, ran well with no backfires or stalls, although it did sputter somewhat at low idle. However, when I shut it down to fish a little (Hey, I ain't hitting a lake without fishing) it refused to fire back up 15 minutes later. So I fished some more, pushed myself around with the Minn Kota and tried it again about an hour later when it was cool and she started after the third pull and some choke.
When I got it home, I realized I had quite a bit of work to do - Nasty white film in the fuel tank and carb bowl. Even though I filled it with fresh fuel/oil per the specs before the fun run, I had simply added to the existing fuel and who knows how old that was. I was hasty and wanted to give it a spin. So afterwards I set about flushing the tank and fuel lines, spraying the carb with carb cleaner and put in a new spark plug. The old one looked fine when I took it out, although I knew it was old from the rust on the outside, but no pitting or discoloration - a nice gray with no buildup.
I took it back out on the lake several times before it got too cold to fish and it ran a great deal stronger, but I still had some hard starting problems when the motor was hot. I just learned to live with it, you know? I would launch, motor to my first fishing spot and realize I was in the area for at least an hour, using the trolling motor until the old girl could fire up and take me to another area.
Winter came and the boat and motor were put away. Springtime approaches and I decide to do a make-over on the motor. In addition to repairing all the dents and dings in the upper unit and stripping and repainting the entire kicker, I flushed the tank, replaced all fuel lines and removed and cleaned the carb. By the way, the carb is an old Walbro 129/131 (Only thing stamped on the carb body). It leaked from the main jet and from the bowl drain spring, and I simply got some automotive gasket material and replaced the original worn out washer/gaskets, which were basically of the same material. I soaked the carb overnight and inspected the float and needle valve above the float, which allows gas to enter the bowl, and it looked to be in good shape. I put everything back together and set the main jet and idle jet to the specs given on the motor cover.
Aero Marine, as many of you know, is an obscure motor originally made by McCulloch, who decided to drop out of the marine outboard business and sold their remaining stock to Aeroceanic Corporation of San Diego in the mid 60's - all of which means parts are rare and a carb rebuild kit almost as rare. The old Walbro is a simple gravity flow fuel system, so when a thorough inspection of the carb looked good, I figured that was enough. The rubber on the inlet valve above the float looked good and the float itself comes back to 90 degrees and has no leaks or cracks. As for the hard to find carb rebuild kit, the remaining items that would have come with it would have been the bowl ring and assorted gaskets, which I made myself from gas resistant automotive gasket material.
So after the spring make-over I have had the boat/motor out 5 times or so for a full day each time. The motor sounds and runs great, but still has the "hard start when warm complex". I can now get it to re-fire when warm but with multiple pulls, a slew of different choke positions and set at full throttle. To regress for a second, when I said it fires up cold after three pulls, it has to be on full throttle to do so. I can dial it down immediately and let's face it, a full throttle start on a little 4 hp is not a big deal - it's not like I am doing a hole-shot or anything
Regardless, I launch the boat and pull away from the ramp area with the trolling motor first then face myself out towards the middle of the lake and go back to start the kicker.
This post is getting long...sorry...
I am thinking the the hard start when warm has to be fuel related and as I type this, I wonder if the bowl is getting to much fuel when hot? While I may be typing things you already know, the gravity fuel system works with the tank over the motor. A fuel petcock sits just to the right and slightly above the carb and must be opened for fuel to run to the bowl. In addition, the gas cap has a vent screw which must be opened to allow the gas to flow freely (excuse the back and forth between fuel and gas). I have noticed that when the vent screw is closed, a great deal of pressure can build up in the fuel system when hot. Is it possible that the fuel is getting heated, creating pressure and forcing the needle valve above the float to allow gas to seep in even when the float tries to hold it closed???? I would think that the vent cap would prevent pressure build up.
Again, the spark plug is new and gapped at Aero Marine specs - .025 or .035, I forget which. The tank is clean, the small fuel filter on the tank's fuel line nipple is clean/debris free and the fuel line is new. The Main jet and Idle jet are clean opened to the specs written right on the motor cover, as is the fuel/oil ratio - 100/1, or 1.5 ounces to a gallon of gas.
I also wanted to ask advice on a few things - I am not new to motors, growing up in a family owned gas station/garage, but new to 2 strokes and outboards. I have been lurking around the boards here for awhile and I do not remember seeing a fuel/oil ration as high as 100/1. I have noticed some threads about oil mixture resulted in recommendations of higher oil than factory specs (Only in some situations - not all). My motor sounds and runs strong, but frankly, I am surprised there is very little smoke from the motor. My biggest memories of going out boating with friends and their 2 strokes was lots and lots of smoke. Because the Aero Marine is air cooled, I can fire it up without worrying about trash cans of water (Prop and sheer pin pulled, of course). Little to no smoke even when running out of the water. I seem to get more smoke from my 4 stroke lawn mower than this 2 stroke. I know running lean on oil can do a great deal of damage to an engine and I wonder if there are any recommendations on the 100/1 mixture. I understand the only downside to more oil is smoke????
I also wanted to ask about lower end maintenance. Of course, I have no idea what is down there or when it has been serviced last, but I understand from these boards that these lower units are normally filled with 90 weight marine gear oil. There are two screws opposite of the propeller. Is this where service should be done? I hate to be so naive, but if I open this, what am I looking for if it is ok...nice dark, water free oil? If so, should it be left alone or replaced regardless as long as I am at this point? What horrors could I find?
I have gone on too much - thanks for reading and if you have any insights into the above, please let me know...
Best
Ron/Opus
Long time lurker, reaping free advice, first time poster. Glad you guys are here!!!!
I have an old Aero Marine 4hp 2 stroke - integrated fuel tank and air cooled. Great little motor I picked up last September for my 9.5 ft Bass Hound.
Anyway, after picking it up I wanted to try it out before the winter season. I took it to a small 260 acre lake and it fired right up on the third pull and some choke, ran well with no backfires or stalls, although it did sputter somewhat at low idle. However, when I shut it down to fish a little (Hey, I ain't hitting a lake without fishing) it refused to fire back up 15 minutes later. So I fished some more, pushed myself around with the Minn Kota and tried it again about an hour later when it was cool and she started after the third pull and some choke.
When I got it home, I realized I had quite a bit of work to do - Nasty white film in the fuel tank and carb bowl. Even though I filled it with fresh fuel/oil per the specs before the fun run, I had simply added to the existing fuel and who knows how old that was. I was hasty and wanted to give it a spin. So afterwards I set about flushing the tank and fuel lines, spraying the carb with carb cleaner and put in a new spark plug. The old one looked fine when I took it out, although I knew it was old from the rust on the outside, but no pitting or discoloration - a nice gray with no buildup.
I took it back out on the lake several times before it got too cold to fish and it ran a great deal stronger, but I still had some hard starting problems when the motor was hot. I just learned to live with it, you know? I would launch, motor to my first fishing spot and realize I was in the area for at least an hour, using the trolling motor until the old girl could fire up and take me to another area.
Winter came and the boat and motor were put away. Springtime approaches and I decide to do a make-over on the motor. In addition to repairing all the dents and dings in the upper unit and stripping and repainting the entire kicker, I flushed the tank, replaced all fuel lines and removed and cleaned the carb. By the way, the carb is an old Walbro 129/131 (Only thing stamped on the carb body). It leaked from the main jet and from the bowl drain spring, and I simply got some automotive gasket material and replaced the original worn out washer/gaskets, which were basically of the same material. I soaked the carb overnight and inspected the float and needle valve above the float, which allows gas to enter the bowl, and it looked to be in good shape. I put everything back together and set the main jet and idle jet to the specs given on the motor cover.
Aero Marine, as many of you know, is an obscure motor originally made by McCulloch, who decided to drop out of the marine outboard business and sold their remaining stock to Aeroceanic Corporation of San Diego in the mid 60's - all of which means parts are rare and a carb rebuild kit almost as rare. The old Walbro is a simple gravity flow fuel system, so when a thorough inspection of the carb looked good, I figured that was enough. The rubber on the inlet valve above the float looked good and the float itself comes back to 90 degrees and has no leaks or cracks. As for the hard to find carb rebuild kit, the remaining items that would have come with it would have been the bowl ring and assorted gaskets, which I made myself from gas resistant automotive gasket material.
So after the spring make-over I have had the boat/motor out 5 times or so for a full day each time. The motor sounds and runs great, but still has the "hard start when warm complex". I can now get it to re-fire when warm but with multiple pulls, a slew of different choke positions and set at full throttle. To regress for a second, when I said it fires up cold after three pulls, it has to be on full throttle to do so. I can dial it down immediately and let's face it, a full throttle start on a little 4 hp is not a big deal - it's not like I am doing a hole-shot or anything
This post is getting long...sorry...
I am thinking the the hard start when warm has to be fuel related and as I type this, I wonder if the bowl is getting to much fuel when hot? While I may be typing things you already know, the gravity fuel system works with the tank over the motor. A fuel petcock sits just to the right and slightly above the carb and must be opened for fuel to run to the bowl. In addition, the gas cap has a vent screw which must be opened to allow the gas to flow freely (excuse the back and forth between fuel and gas). I have noticed that when the vent screw is closed, a great deal of pressure can build up in the fuel system when hot. Is it possible that the fuel is getting heated, creating pressure and forcing the needle valve above the float to allow gas to seep in even when the float tries to hold it closed???? I would think that the vent cap would prevent pressure build up.
Again, the spark plug is new and gapped at Aero Marine specs - .025 or .035, I forget which. The tank is clean, the small fuel filter on the tank's fuel line nipple is clean/debris free and the fuel line is new. The Main jet and Idle jet are clean opened to the specs written right on the motor cover, as is the fuel/oil ratio - 100/1, or 1.5 ounces to a gallon of gas.
I also wanted to ask advice on a few things - I am not new to motors, growing up in a family owned gas station/garage, but new to 2 strokes and outboards. I have been lurking around the boards here for awhile and I do not remember seeing a fuel/oil ration as high as 100/1. I have noticed some threads about oil mixture resulted in recommendations of higher oil than factory specs (Only in some situations - not all). My motor sounds and runs strong, but frankly, I am surprised there is very little smoke from the motor. My biggest memories of going out boating with friends and their 2 strokes was lots and lots of smoke. Because the Aero Marine is air cooled, I can fire it up without worrying about trash cans of water (Prop and sheer pin pulled, of course). Little to no smoke even when running out of the water. I seem to get more smoke from my 4 stroke lawn mower than this 2 stroke. I know running lean on oil can do a great deal of damage to an engine and I wonder if there are any recommendations on the 100/1 mixture. I understand the only downside to more oil is smoke????
I also wanted to ask about lower end maintenance. Of course, I have no idea what is down there or when it has been serviced last, but I understand from these boards that these lower units are normally filled with 90 weight marine gear oil. There are two screws opposite of the propeller. Is this where service should be done? I hate to be so naive, but if I open this, what am I looking for if it is ok...nice dark, water free oil? If so, should it be left alone or replaced regardless as long as I am at this point? What horrors could I find?
I have gone on too much - thanks for reading and if you have any insights into the above, please let me know...
Best
Ron/Opus