Help! Head spinning information overload.

[Browndog10]

Ok, I am looking to start my transom/floor rebuilt and I am having trouble figuring out exactly what supplies I will need for my aluminum boat, mainly on the epoxy/gluvit/5200 aspect. For sealing the transom can gluvit be used also or should I stick with a 2 part epoxy resin? If not any suggestions on the epoxy brand etc. This is really confusing me in the websites. Or is the 5200 and gluvit the like type products? I know opinions are going to vary but any advice would be great. Especially on the resin the stuff doesnt seem cheap and I don't want to get the wrong stuff. Also, what is the consensus on which type of glue to use when gluing the 2-3/4" sheets of marine plywood together? Or, I guess even better do they sell 1 1/2" thick sheets? I cant seem to find them. Im sorry, but the more and more I read these threads the more confused that I get.

 

[jbcurt00]

Gluvit is expensive, use it for rivets & seams in the hull after you re-buck or replace leaking rivets, NOT for sealing plywood.

3/4" plywood glued w/ gorilla glue, TiteBond3, or a 2part epoxy.

Seal your plywood transom before installing it, many use spar varnish, I prefer epoxy, but wouldn't recommend my vendor. Both are good choices.

I choose not to use the VERY popular U S Comps 635 epoxy, and have had marginal results (at best) from the epoxy I bought. I regret that decision.

See, simple ^^^ :watermelon:

All you gotta do is completely pull your boat apart, then put it all together w/ new everything

What aluminum boat?

I know pix are challenging to post lately, but using photobucket, I've not had any trouble.

 

[Browndog10]

Thanks, I have a headache trying to figure all this out. I am guessing a gallon for the epoxy for the transom. Never used it so it will be interesting.
Heres a pic. Bought the boat a few months ago, took it out a few times. Learned livewell had a leak. One thing led to another, seems transom is rotten on that same side so in turn doing a transom replace and probably a floor replacement. I may just do the transom now and fish it the remainder of the season and take on the floor come winter. Seems like double work but I want to get back out on the water.Going to see how smooth the transom goes first.

 

[ondarvr]

Gluvit it is epoxy, it can be used most anywhere.

 

[jigngrub]

I am having trouble figuring out exactly what supplies I will need for my aluminum boat, mainly on the epoxy/gluvit/5200 aspect. For sealing the transom can gluvit be used also or should I stick with a 2 part epoxy resin?

2 part marine grade epoxy is what we normally use to seal the wood in aluminum boats with.

Gluvit is what we usually seal the inside of aluminum hulls, rivets and seams. Gluvit can also be used for sealing wood, it is a low viscosity epoxy resin that will penetrate the wood. Most people use the 2 part resin mentioned above because it can be found cheaper than Gluvit, but Gluvit will work well for sealing your transom plywood. A gallon of Gluvit will be too much to seal your transom and a quart may not be enough, but since you plan to do other work to your boat go ahead and get the gallon and you can use what's left over on your decking.

3M 5200 is an adhesive marine sealant used like caulk.

 

[bonz_d]

I like the boat! Mirrocraft looks like they are trying to make a big comeback recently. Post updates and I'll follow.

 

[Woodonglass]

FYI, One Gallon of Epoxy will coat approx. 250-300 sq. ft of plywood surface. A 4x8 Sheet of plywood (Front and Back) = 64 sq ft. As you can see A Gallon will give you a LOT of coats for your transom.

 

[Browndog10]

Thank you guys! I was so confused you all helped! I will start a new thread and post my progress and I am sure questions once I start the project. Going to try and pull the motor this weekend and see what lies beneath.

 

[Browndog10]

OK Now I am reading on another website that marine grade plywood is corrosive to aluminum? If so what do I use? FYI if you want to follow my now boat project I will be starting the thread tonight or tomorrow.

 

[Woodonglass]

That's a NEW one on me. Pressure Treated Plywood is. But Regular NORMAL Marine Grade Plywood...I've never heard it stated that it's corrosive to Aluminum

 

[Browndog10]

[FONT=Lucida Grande, Trebuchet MS, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]First that I have heard of it also. Now could I use standard plywood? I figure its cheaper and I am going to have so much epoxy on that thing would it even matter?[/FONT]

 

[ondarvr]

Marine grade plywood is not corrosive to aluminum, treated plywood is, but there are suppliers of treated ply that can, and is used in boats, they are two totally different things though.

 

[Woodonglass]

A lot of the Tin Boat guys here on the Forum have been using the Aruaco brand ext. Grade plywood with Great success. It's 7ply, has very few voids and as you say, once encapsulated in epoxy, will last for decades.

 

[Browndog10]

Is the aruaco and the ACX the same stuff?

 

[jbcurt00]

No, unless it's Auraco ACX.

But EITHER would be a good choice, and as stated, once encapsulated in epoxy, if you seal any thru holes you drill in it, they will both serve you well.

 

[Woodonglass]

Typically ACX has 5 plys and a lot of voids in the plys where the Aruaco brand has 7 plys and very few voids.

 

[Browndog10]

What kind of gorilla glue to use? The wood gorilla glue (water resistant) or the original (water proof) to glue those boards together. I figured that I ask even though thoughts are that it doesnt matter since it will be epoxy sealed.

 

[Woodonglass]

Personally I'd use Titebond III once it's cured it's as good as it gets for water resistance.

 

[Axkiker]

I am using Advantech for my build and am happy so far. Its claim to fame is that its said to be very moisture resistant and stronger than a comparable product. 100% void free and easy to work with. I can tell you from handling it the stuff is very dense, HEAVY, and strong. I really like it.

Sold at lowes in 23/32" 4x8 sheets for roughly 28.00 I think. I cant remember

http://www.huberwood.com/advantech/home-advantech

Ive left a number of scrap pieces outside since starting and cant see any soaking up moisture.

I think its worth a look.

 

[Browndog10]

I will try the titebond, as a fisherman out in the elements there is a huge difference between resistant and proof. I will research that board also, thanks. As far as my build, I started a thread here. I have alot a work ahead of me and already jones'n to get out on the water. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...livewell-boat-restore-project-1993-mirrocraft Unfortunately, I am mostly going to be a weekend warrior and its going to take me longer than it should but that should buy me time to fund up and order supplies since most everything needs to be ordered online. That's another reason for all my questions as I want to get the stuff in house right the first time.