Help installing power pack 1988 Johnson 120

mikey45

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Aug 19, 2007
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13
I started a new thread. Okay, I have in my hands, a new rectifier and it is installed. I mounted the bridge to it. I have the new power pack. I DONT have the wiring diagram to wire it all up to the bridge. Can someone offer me suggestions on how to wire it up? I got no instructions with it. Also, when it is done, are there any other steps and tests I need to do when it is all done. I appreciate the responses I get.
 

mikey45

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Aug 19, 2007
Messages
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Re: Help installing power pack 1988 Johnson 120

I installed the new power pack and rectifier and I still have the same problem. No spark. I disconnected the black and yellow wire and checked to see if it would start and it didnt. No spark. Suggestions??H E L P
 

HighTrim

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Jun 21, 2007
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10,486
Re: Help installing power pack 1988 Johnson 120

NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
(Note: If the engine has spark with the spark plugs out but not with them installed, the timer base is either weak or the engine is not spinning fast enough. See # 6 and #8.)
1. Disconnect the black yellow stop wire and retest. If the engines' ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault-possibly the key switch, harness or shift switch.
2. Disconnect the yellow wires from the rectifier and retest. If the engine has spark, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the stator resistance. You should read about 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire.
4. Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack).
5. Check the timer base resistance from the #1 to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 to the #4 sensor wire. Reading should be 10-20 ohms on each set (or 30-40 ohms for CDI Electronics Blue Timer Bases).
6. Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the #1 sensor wire to the #3 sensor wire, and from the #2 sensor wire to the #4 sensor wire (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack. If the output is low, you may try to reset the air gap between the timer base sensor and the triggering magnet using a Sensor Gap Gauge (553-9702) or use the following procedure:
a) Loosen the two mounting screws on the sensors and the nuts located in the epoxy on the outside of the heat shield of the timer base.
b) Slide the sensors in toward the crankshaft until the sensor touches the stop boss located at the base of the sensor mounting area. Tighten the mounting screws.
c) Coat the face of the sensors with machinists bluing or equivalent.
d) Install the flywheel without the key and rotate the flywheel at least one full turn.
e) Remove the flywheel and check to see if the trigging magnet struck the face of the sensors. If it did, back the sensor out approximately 0.005” and repeat steps c, d and e.
f) If the ignition fired, finger tight the nuts on the outside of the heat shield and coat them with RTV.
g) If still no fire, replace the sensor.
7. Check the DVA voltage on each black/white wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more (while connected to the pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the trigger wires from the pack and recheck the black/white terminals on the pack. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the timer base may have a problem in the internal wiring (possibly a thin spot in the insulation on one wire).
8. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the orange wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Did you test the power pack before purchasing it?? Sorry I havent read your previous thread.
 

mikey45

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Aug 19, 2007
Messages
13
Re: Help installing power pack 1988 Johnson 120

No I didnt test it. I purchased it from marineengine.com. I originally had a problem with the tach giving me funny readings. Another reader on this site said for me to change the rectifier. They suggested it may be ready to go and could cause a fire. It may fix the tach problem as well.While searching the motor for loose or cracked wires, I found one red one on the starter side of the motor with a glass fuse in it so I replaced it because it was corroded. I then tried to start the motor for the first time that day and it wouldnt start. I checked it and it had no spark. I figured the power pack went so I replaced the power pack and the rectifier. Now I am at present.
I didnt think to check and move the throttle around in neutral. Will check it in the morning. I did notice when I turned the key on, the tach would activate and drop to zero.
 

mikey45

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Joined
Aug 19, 2007
Messages
13
Re: Help installing power pack 1988 Johnson 120

Its been a few days since I messed with my looper from hell. I checked the neutral switch and it seems okay. The motor turns over in neutral but not reverse or forward. I also checked to make sure the safety wire for the emergency kill was in its proper place. I turned the motor over with the plugs out. No spark. I disconnected the black and yellow stop wire and still no spark. I disconnected the yellow wires from the rectifier and still no spark. I checked the stator resistance. I got a reading of .10 ohms battery disconnected. What is a DVA output?? I tested the orange to orange and yellow wire(book says brown to brown and yellow)in volts and got 0. I did check ACV at red wires at bridge with pack and stator connected. Got 27HV. For the hell of it I checked the DCV and got a reading of 12.3. Sorry to take so long with this thread. Any suggestions????
 
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