help paying my "old force", 1st boat" dues

[SSLouiS]

i just bought my 1st boat- 1987 capri with a force 125 o/b. of course i inherited a few problems with it and i would apreciate any advice i can get from this great site. My biggest problem is that 1st time we put the boat in the water we found that the motor will spin the prop fine in reverse but slips in forward...when we got the boat back on the trailer and worked thru the gears we found that the prop locked both ways in reverse and 1 way in forward..then slipped as soon as we got the boat back out on the lake..will someone please tell me what is the probable cause of this?? Does it sound like just a cable adjustment for the linkage or maybe (hopefully NOT!) that the pivot screw was removed at some point?? i hear that the pivot screw wasnt such a big issue on this type of motor but i dont know enough about it to be sure.The guy i bought the Boat from was with me my first time on the lake and seems to think it is just and adjustment. Is there another way to adjust the linkage on a 1987 force 125hp outboard?? Thanks

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: help paying my "old force", 1st boat" dues

First you need to define "slips" better. In forward, is the engine revving up and the boat not moving well? Or, does the lower unit make a rattling sound as it tries to go into gear? Or, is it just not going into forward gear at all?

 

[SSLouiS]

Re: help paying my "old force", 1st boat" dues

it didnt sound like it took off really but i think i heard it jump out of gear..actually..more like when we increased the throttle it wanted to grab but just didnt have enough. i shifted through the gears today and it was acting the same way...reverse grabbed both directions..and forward in one direction..it definitely grabs in forward tho..at first anyhow. whats normal??

 

[SSLouiS]

Re: help paying my "old force", 1st boat" dues

ok..i kow i am not supposed to ask another question under the same post...but...try and bear with me..i can NOT get that drain plug to come out i tried heating it up wih my MAPP torch too..and i got it pretty warm....but i wussed out because i wasnt sure about if i culd damage something Can i do any damage to thel ower unit...seals .. etc... by heating the L/u up too much?? I really dont want to strip the plug and i think i am already stretching out the hex..im twisting the allen key!

 

[foodfisher]

Re: help paying my "old force", 1st boat" dues

With tension on the hex wrench tap it with a hammer. Acts like an impact driver. Good luck

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: help paying my "old force", 1st boat" dues

There are three drive dogs on each gear, and three on each side of the clutch. These dogs are only about 1/4 inch high and taper toward to back to about 1/8 inch.

NOW: If properly meshed, the drive dogs will seat fully and will lock-up no matter which direction you turn the prop. However. If not fully seated or meshed, when you turn the prop one direction, the ramps will ride up on each other and the prop will "Click" as you turn it.

This indicates that these is not enough throw in the gear that does this and usually, too much in the other gear.

With the engine in neutral, the interlock below the bottom carb should be even with the stop plate. If it is not, then you need to adjust the cable. If it is, then you need to adjust the shift linkage. Since forward is down, lengthen the shift linkage either with the two nuts on either side of the interlock plate or by unscrewing the lower shift rod.

Do this in small increments until the prop locks in both directions in forward and reverse. If you go too far, you will put undo stress on the brass shift yoke and you may lose reverse. Neutral will no longer be centered.

 

[SSLouiS]

Re: help paying my "old force", 1st boat" dues

Well i tried to tap on the ratchet- with a brand new hex on the ratchet- and i all but stripped the plug..the key wants wants to twist itself out. Does taking the prop... anode....bolt technique work? if so i think i would want to try that next before i stripped it out. Id try to heat it up..but im worried about that cast aluminum l/u and all the gears and seals that may be in there. I just dont know enough ....any advice?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: help paying my "old force", 1st boat" dues

If you just want to check and/or change the lower unit oil, you can either remove the prop, the anode, and one of the spool bolts closest to the bottom. This will drain most of the oil. Remember: You must still remove the fill and vent plugs.

Alternatively, you can drop the lower uniot and remove the water pump and mounting plate. You can now pour out all the oil through the large opening in the top of the gearcase. ---A lot of bother to just change oil, but with the lower unit removed, it will be easier to work on the real drain plug.

Buy a Torx set and hammer in the closest size. That may get out the plug but it will almost certainly ruin that particular Torx bit.

 

[foodfisher]

Re: help paying my "old force", 1st boat" dues

I was ready to drill and tap the next screw size up, so I went for the stripped head or broken wrench. It gave way. Replaced with antiseize w/aluminum additive. Someone here mentioned using scouring powder for a better grip in the hex head.

 

[SSLouiS]

Re: help paying my "old force", 1st boat" dues

Well...i tried to get the drain plug out using some gym chalk from my climbing days back in the service..and i gotta say it DID work super...in as far as it grabbed like heck..no slippage..BUT..i ended up breaking off the hex key inside the plug. So i took used franks method and pulled the prop,anode, and took one screw out..which worked great and was a lot easier..the only problem being that i wished i was on a better slope. Thank you for that! The guy i bought this boat from came down today and we ended up adjusting the cable at the throttle box and the plate and dropping the linkage rod..and we got 'er locking up like she should. Thank you again Frank The boat goes good in the water..now i just need to work on my driving skills. I appreciate all the help.