Help pumping oil out of engine

[GA_Boater]

I've been using an old chev v8 oil pump with a 3/8" drill chucked onto it for about 20 years now and I winterize 20 to 25 boats a year. It sucks it out hot or cold and a hot engine doesn't take much over a minute to empty.

Does the pump need primed to start sucking, Wrench?

My local Pull-A-Part place charges 16 bucks for a pump and everybody has a 3/8" drill*.

* How else would PO's put all these extra holes in our boats? :blue: :smile:

 

[tank1949]

I started the 300 hour maintenance and it is not going well. The oil pump tube will not make the turns to get into the pan. I went to remove filter since I was about to lose my patience with the oil pump tube and the filter was put so tight that i am bending the remote filter bracket trying to get it off. So ya, having a great day. I found old threads about stuck filters so if it crushes anymore i will cut the can until only the base is exposed than work with that. The question I have that the mercruiser diagram does not show is can i run the oil pump tube down one of the remote filter lines? Is there any type of filter on the end of one of those lines. I suspect the (filtered side) line goes into the engine someone but the pickup line should come from the oil pan correct? Does anyone know if i can just run the hose down it?

Depending on the room that u have u might be able to drive a screw driver through old filter near bottom as NOT to damage threaded part or screw on assembly. But, if u damage it, it can be replaced. Since it sounds like u have crushed filter sides, this technique should provide more leverage at unscrewing filter. NO offence meant but have u been unscrewing filter correctly. Looking down from top of motor u would be turning clockwise and the opposite looking up. I have been where u are!

 

[wrench 3]

Does the pump need primed to start sucking, Wrench?

My local Pull-A-Part place charges 16 bucks for a pump and everybody has a 3/8" drill*.

* How else would PO's put all these extra holes in our boats? :blue: :smile:

It self primes no problem as long as it was used for oil the last time, even if it has sat since the previous fall.
I do have to use some sort of drain pan or absorbent material under it though. The drive shaft doesn't have a seal on it but it's not much volume that leaks.
I have enough garden hose on it so that I can work outside the boat.

 

[Scott Danforth]

New chevy pump is $30

 

[wrench 3]

New chevy pump is $30

Mine was free. It was a used one that came off with an engine rebuild.

 

[andrewterri]

I can get a chevy fuel pump for 30 and just make some hoses up that fit it and use a drill?

 

[wrench 3]

It takes a bit of welding to attach the one pipe.

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you cant weld - pull the cap, remove the gears, braze on hose fittings, then re-install gears, lap top plate of pump and flange with 600 grit on a piece of glass, spray clean with brake clean, pack with a bit of grease for first prime and away you go.

it will leak a bit where the shaft goes thru and you have to be careful when you braze a fitting there


or you can buy a rotary gear head from grainger or ebay https://www.grainger.com/product/4KHK4

 

[thumpar]

I can get a chevy fuel pump for 30 and just make some hoses up that fit it and use a drill?

Oil pump NOT fuel pump.

 

[andrewterri]

typo, i went to say oil pump. good instructions on how to make it work.

 

[Watermann]

Sounds like a huge pain to change oil which makes guys not want to do it as often as they should. I installed a drain line to my oil pan plug so all I have to do is drop it out the bilge drain hole and drain the oil into a pan while changing the filter.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Sounds like a huge pain to change oil which makes guys not want to do it as often as they should. I installed a drain line to my oil pan plug so all I have to do is drop it out the bilge drain hole and drain the oil into a pan while changing the filter.

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"450","width":"450","src":"https:\/\/proxy.duckduckgo.com\/iu\/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fforums.iboats.com%2Ffiledata%2Ffetch%3Fid%3D9937487%26d%3D1432329309%26type%3Dfull&f=1"**[/IMG2]

I have regretted not installing on of those when my engine was pulled. It would have made life a little simpler.

 

[andrewterri]

I definitely want to get a drain line put on. My problem is the location and getting access to it.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... That's why it's done when the motor is outa the boat,.....

 

[Leardriver]

I keep a "sacrificial" shop vac that just use for oil, brake fluid, etc. One of the $30 Walmart specials. I store it in a trash bag to keep the drips down.
Get a clear plastic tube, the kind you would use to bleed brakes, adapt it to the Shop vac nozzle with duct tape, snake the tube down the dip stick tube, and slurp away. It works 100 times better than any more expensive pump.

 

[andrewterri]

The point is to try and keep the engine in the boat Bondo :laugh: My shop vac was not strong enough to pull the oil cold. I am going to get a good pump. I dont mind spending the money as we would use it a lot and help out those who might not be able to get a pump.

 

[Lou C]

Get the Topsider or the Tempo Vacuum pump and fab up the garden hose adapter. Costs a bit of money but easy and fast. Plus, the Topsider will also pull gear oil out of a diff, making less mess and will pull auto trans fluid out of the dipstick tube also making less mess for those automotive jobs. Suck out the diff or auto trans before removing the cover, way less mess. I've used it over and over in the 15 years I've had it.