Help purchased a used Johnson 235 outboard and VRO missing !

Heywire77

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I just purchased a 1985 Johnson 235hp outboard and I got to checking it out closer I already new the VRO was removed but then I noticed there isn't any kind of fuel pump on it at all and no primer . They had fuel bulb running right to the carbs with no fuel pump ? Will I need a fuel pump of some kind and what about the fuel primer also need to know we're to start . Thanks
 

Faztbullet

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Sounds like they where using a electric pump in boat, you will need a fuel pump and still should have primer...
 

emdsapmgr

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You have two factory options. You can purchase and install a new VRO, just as the original 1985 OMC parts diagrams showed. You can opt out of the VRO and go with the dual premix pumps, last used on the 1983 V6's. You'll find the dual older pumps much cheaper, but will have to premix all of your fuel for the engine. Check out the factory parts lists at this website: epc.brp.com. They show all the parts you will need to setup the fuel system. I would not recommend an electric fuel pump. If you go with the dual pumps, you will have to remove a plug on the face of the block and add another hose nipple for the pulse line for the other fuel pump.
 

Heywire77

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That is what I was thinking I could do is use the manual pumps and it actually has two hoses coming out the block , I just didn't know I would have to use two manual pumps thou . And yeah I like the mixing it myself because I have had to many friends in the past that has had the VRO pumps go out and blow the motors .
 

Heywire77

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Dang the two pumps it list for a 1983 model is right at 100 each !
 

Chris1956

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Try a salvage yard. You can then rebuild the used pumps. That should save a few $$.
 

Heywire77

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I found a good used VRO pump that is working but it is 4 wire pump I'm not sure what mine would have been a 2 wire 3 wire or 4 wire I think I see the similar plug inside the cowl it looks like a 3 wire plug does anyone have a wiring diagram for the 4 wire VRO so I will know we're to run the 4 wires ? Because I'm sure there just wires for low oil and buzzer and power and ground but need to know we're to run them . With the one I found being cheaper then buying two manual pumps I think I will also get a rebuild kit for it to make sure and also test it once I get it put on . Because I have a 1997 Ranger 518svs and it has 2 gas tanks and it has a oil tank also so it would actually be easier to let it mix it and all . And yes before any one mentions it I know my boat is only rated for a 200hp but I got a hell of a deal on the motor and it has 150hp decals so shouldn't have a problem unless the game warden looks at the serial tags down at bottom of motor ! And I don't plan on racing across the water I just want to get out and do some fishing with my kids .
 

emdsapmgr

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Your pump was originally a 3-wire pump. If you use a 4-wire, you will need a different pump mount bracket: 331122 to fit the 4 wire pump. Also, you will need a wire harness 174710. Ref: the Bombardier P&A book at your dealer for the details.
 

Chris1956

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Just so you know, the 4 wire OMS pump is the latest and greatest design, as it has a no-oil alarm(at the OMS Pump), as well as the low oil (in the oil tank) and overheat alarm. The fourth alarm is the check engine alarm, which sounds if you have a fuel restriction. Your motor would need a vacuum switch in the fuel line to control that alarm.
 

Heywire77

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Sounds good on the VRO pump , I purchased the motor and I guess I should have took a better look because last night I went out and was checking thru the wiring diagram and all and I noticed according to the parts diagram online I'm suppose to have two CDI modules and I only have one CDI module and it didn't look anything like the parts diagram but it has the 6 wires going to the coils so I'm guess someone just thru parts on this motor that they had laying around so I'm so pissed , I sprayed some mixed gas and oil in the carbs and it fired up and sounded great but I'm worried about all the mixed matched parts and also the big red plug on the motor is only 5 pins in it so I think it is off a really old omc motor probaly rigged up ? I can't find a wiring diagram for my exact engine . I'm worried I may get in to this motor getting all the right parts and harnes and all and have a bunch of money in it and then it not last anytime after all the work and time . I was told it was fresh rebuild but I'm thinking I was lied to the motor looks to never have been apart but it has great compression . I'm going to load some pics of wiring maybe someone can tell me something . Thanks
 

Faztbullet

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If it has a single "T" pack on starboard side its possible its a 150/175. Does it have a flat back of hump exhaust chest between the cylinders?
 

Heywire77

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Syrah when I looked at the module it looked like the 150- 175 module and you can see it doesn't bolt up right and yes it is the hump back and I done checked the model numbers is J235TLCOR so that should be the 235hp
 

Heywire77

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I was told the motor was built buy a guy that dine racing motors and that they did some performance upgrades I can see the foot has the extended point and the water pick up is different also
 

Heywire77

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No Title

Here is pic of cdi
 

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Heywire77

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Here is another pic of it and it only has two bolts holding it on the whole for the back one on the cdi isn't anywhere to bolt to on the motor or it is blocked
 

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Heywire77

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I was a mechanic for over 20 years and mainly done drivability and electrical at the dealership and then I retired and started restoring boats and I try to mainly stay with inboards but I found this Ranger for a good price and had been looking for a bass boat to use myself so this one I plan on keeping and taking my kids fishing but with it being my boats it always gets put last inline I have had it almost a year and been so busy with summer with boats and finally getting a chance to work on it but it has been late at night I usually get out there around 8:00 and stay out there sometimes till around 2:00 or 3:00 in the morning I do my best work late at night when no one is around to bother me and it is a lot cooler also here at night in the south ! So maybe I can get it ready for the summer when I get done with the motor and all . I have to strip out all the old carpet and were the deck extension goes I going to Fiberglas it in and build a cooler so I can have drinks for the kids and then if I can't wet sand and wax out the top cap of hull I'm going to reclear the top cap .
 

emdsapmgr

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The electrical system on the V6 crossflows was always a two-power pack system up through the 88 model year. In 1989, OMC changed to the single power pack. When this system came out some ignition parts changed, as the power pack logic changed. The 86-89 V6 models had been re-badged as a 175 hp engine, not the 235. Quickstart and SLOW features were added to the newer single power pack. Those engines also sported the 35 amp alternator which had the vented flywheel. Not sure just what different components your engine has, but yours does not have the vented flywheel. Not sure just what commonality your ignition system has with your stock 85 components. (spark plug coils are not a problem.) While the crank keyway is in the same position, I believe the vented flywheels that have quickstart have a different timing ring in the center of the flywheel. Your flywheel may or may not have the correct timing ring. You will have to run the engine to see if you get a timing rpm pickup when the engine is first started (cold) each day. Quick start will up the rpms to maybe 900-950 (from 650 idle) until the block reaches 92 degrees, then quickstart will cancel the spark advance and the engine's idle will return to the lower rpms. In 1989, OMC put the new single power pack on the 150 engines with the old-style solid flywheel. (10 amp charging system). Perhaps that's what is on yours. Make no mistake, none of these ignition systems are bad systems, just different. They will power your engine just fine. The only problem I have is that the early (1970's, early 80's) dual power packs had no rev limiters. Many of the later packs (both dual and the single) have built in 5800 rev limiters. That's not a performance feature for that engine-it's a restriction.
 

Faztbullet

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There should be another one of these packs on opposite side....Does it have a vented flywheel? Did you buy it in southeast TN as this looks like a Gus motor...
 

pn

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i vote for the two mechanical pumps since yours has two pulse hoses. do a search here, there are cheap new ones on ebay
 
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