Help purchased a used Johnson 235 outboard and VRO missing !

[Heywire77]

I was told that the motor came for a speed shop the guy that owned the shop built racing engines and his tech wanted to get in it so he helped him build the motor up And then business slowed for winter and tech needed money and hadn't finished the boat either yet so he sold it was told it was never even water tested . I have fired it off on a spray bottle with mixed fuel . It sounded great . I will try an upload a pic of the foot because it looks like it has had work also .

 

[Heywire77]

No Title

The foot doesn't look factory does it ? I noticed the holes
the water goes in only has two holes showing and curved for water flow I guess

 

[emdsapmgr]

That stock lower unit can supply enough water to the powerhead if it has two holes. But only if the rib is removed between those two bottome holes. You could have overheating problems if the top two holes are plugged and the center rib remains between the bottom two. Shaving the lower unit by the water holes directs the water to the two holes. A sound idea. If you run the engine with the lower unit that way, I'd be setting up some temp senders-one on each head and install a water pressure gauge. You need to keep an eye on this.

 

[Heywire77]

There should be another one of these packs on opposite side....Does it have a vented flywheel? Did you buy it in southeast TN as this looks like a Gus motor...

I didn't buy it out of Tennessee but I live in Mississippi and no doesn't have a vented flywheel . I do hate it having over 20 year old electrical system some wires look like there cracking on the outside plastic . If I was to upgrade all the electrical what would be a good way to go because I plan on taking a few fishing trips out of state and don't want the old electrical system to go out the first time it gets good and hot , I have seen some of these older motors were the flywheel magnets break a loose also . Anyway would like to make it more reliable I have a new water pump I was going to throw in it also and going to go on and rebuild the carbs so I will know there clean and ready . I also know the prop on the motor is a renegade 13 1/2 x 25 pitch and it is cupped sounds really high of a pitch to me maybe not I'm not sure I know my boat is a 1997 Ranger 518svs and it is 19.5 feet long .

 

[Heywire77]

That stock lower unit can supply enough water to the powerhead if it has two holes. But only if the rib is removed between those two bottome holes. You could have overheating problems if the top two holes are plugged and the center rib remains between the bottom two. Shaving the lower unit by the water holes directs the water to the two holes. A sound idea. If you run the engine with the lower unit that way, I'd be setting up some temp senders-one on each head and install a water pressure gauge. You need to keep an eye on this.

It looks like someone has worked the foot and made it were it curves the water flow to the two holes in the foot I would have to take a pic to better show . I don't think there will be a problem with water flow will try and get a pic of it later but it is curved and has a ledge to direct the water flow into the lower unit .

 

[Faztbullet]

That a stock unit someone added a nosecone and a bunch of bondo... Get rid of it and get a stock housing as it will cause you more problems on your Ranger and will actually slow you down.

 

[Heywire77]

I found out it has a nose cone on it that is welded in place and I read a lot of people saying that help pick up more speed . I going to make sure my temp gauge works and I'm going to add a water pressure gauge so I can keep an eye on it , if it becomes a problem I will figure out something

 

[Faztbullet]

A nose cone is only good for boat setups in excess of 70mph. That gear case is set up for dragging and running parallel, on a heavy boat(Ranger) you a lot of excess positive trim which will point the cone down and cause it to pull stern down as it will be digging...good luck.

 

[Heywire77]

I have never heard of a nose cone causing problems on a bass boat , I seen a few videos of people running them on bass boats . And your saying a nose cone only helps if your going over 70mph ? So is that the saw also for jack plates ?

 

[Faztbullet]

Here are a few reads to check..Been there and got several t-shirts
http://www.wmi.org/bassfish/bassboard/boats_motors/message.html?message_id=163680
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/236955-nose-cone-slow-boat.html
http://randrpropshop.com/tips.htm
http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forums/showthread.php?16168-Bobs-nose-cone-and-low-water-pickup

 

[Heywire77]

Faztbullet you the man ! Dam that if I want to blow out I have heard of them before but didn't know a blow out meant the boat would all of a sudden turn to the side . That sounds dangerous as hell , I had a steering cable break loose year ago going 50 across the water and the boat turned hard right and started skipping like a rock thrown across the water , we were airborne and that scared the shitz out of me and slowed me down for quite a while . I don't want all the performance parts just mainly get out in the water and do some fishing and I don't care to race across the water to get to fishing spot I'm there to relax ! That really sucks I will have to find a different lower . I starting to think about selling the motor and just getting something that hasn't been tuned up for speed . If anyone is looking let me know I will make someone a hell of a deal on the whole motor and it has great compression !

 

[Heywire77]

Rule 8

 

[Heywire77]

Rule 8

 

[Faztbullet]

Just get it running and get a new lower unit from SIE ($895) as from pictures it don't look as if motor has been apart...If it a ratings issue get a 175 cowl...

 

[jbcurt00]

Heywire,
Solicitations and offers for sale are prohibited

 

[Heywire77]

Faztbullet I have a question , ok I went out today and was going to check my lower unit to see how the nose cone was mounted to see if I could cut the welds and remove it , well that is when I got a big surprise the nose cone isn't welded on at all it is made on the unit . I sanded all the old paint down and got it to the bare metal and it is made with the nose cone ! Also I did Alitalia sanding on the edge that I talked about that directs water to the inlets and it ks metal also . Why would this lower unit be made like this I'm positive that the unit came with the nose cone on it .

 

[Heywire77]

No Title

Here is another pic I have of the lower unit on it before I sanded all the paint off take a look at it and tell me what you think but like I said it wasn't welded on it is all made on it .

 

[Faztbullet]

That a stock unit and nosecone was heli-arced and welds likely ground down so it will look like it was cast on. OMC and Second effort never made a unit that looked like this. Just put it on craigslist and get a couple hundred dollars for it and get a stock unit and go fishing. Your hull with proper setup should run in the mid to upper 60's

 

[Heywire77]

Your pump was originally a 3-wire pump. If you use a 4-wire, you will need a different pump mount bracket: 331122 to fit the 4 wire pump. Also, you will need a wire harness 174710. Ref: the Bombardier P&A book at your dealer for the details.

I have a question about this VRO pump you said if I went to a 4 wire oump because of mine being 3 wire I would have to change harness is there a wiring diagram Anywere that shows were these wires go . What actually does the 4 wire go to and the warning system on the VRO pump is all it does is sound the buzzer in the control box ? I wish I could find a wiring diagram on my motor I have looked everywhere and can't find one also when I install the oil tank were does it plug to and does it have any kind of guage or light that lets you know when it's low . Thanks

 

[emdsapmgr]

Bombardier offers that special wire harness for your application. Likely it comes with a wiring diagram in the box.... All later VRO models come with two audible control box warnings. They typically work like this: low oil in tank=intermittent beep every 20 seconds. Internal oil pump fault: constant on/off beeping.