HELP WITH A 1989 EVINRUDE 155hp SLOW CRANKING

[mav6759]

I have a 1989 Evinrude 155hp, About a month ago I went and had the compression checked on the motor and the compression was great on all cylinders. The motor turn over very well no problems, matter of fact I had the motor running for about 2 to 3 mins. on muff's. The motor sat for about 2 weeks and I noticed there was a leak from the lower unit, so I had the lower unit seals replaced. I got the boat back and wanted to start the motor on muff's to make sure everything was ok. Now the motor spins very very slowly, the negative and positive cable and the cable leading from solenoid to the starter are getting hot. The batteries are over 12v's, I cleaned all the connections with sandpaper everything is shinning. I checked all my grounds. What would make the battery cables get so hot and make the starter lop when trying to start.

 

[pn]

resistance is futile, either there's a loose/dirty connection, a short, resistance in your wires or something binding up your motor. plug in your charger/ pull your plugs/kill wire and turn over and see how she spins. turn it by hand it should have little little resistance, is the prop off? might be binding up on the housing.

 

[mav6759]

I checked a re-cleaned all my connections, I disconnected the T/T just to be safe. I pulled the plugs as you said, the motor spent around like it was going to fly off the boat. It spent very fast no problems with the starter, I turn the motor by had before I removed the plugs, and it did have a little resistance, but I can turn it by hand. What do you mean by binding in the housing...?

 

[tblshur]

mav6759 i was just thinking is your prop spin freely by hand.good luck

 

[metriccrescentwrench]

Your problem could be the starter itself, or it could be another component in the starting system.

To see if it's the starter you can use a known good, fully charged battery and connect the starter directly to it with good jumper cables. If the starter now works properly the problem is elsewhere, if not then the starter is the problem.

If the previous test indicates that the starter is ok then you need to do a little detective work with a voltmeter to determine where the problem is at.

First off make sure the connections at the battery and engine are good (clean the terminals etc.)

All of these measurements need to be taken while someone cranks the starter for a few seconds: Measure the voltage from the + battery terminal to the + connection on the solenoid. Likewise, measure the voltage across the solenoid. Measure the voltage between the output lug on the solenoid and the + post on the starter. Finally measure the voltage between the - battery terminal and a good ground on the engine. If any of these measurements are above approximately one volt you've located a problem.

 

[mav6759]

[FONT=Verdana, Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Ok, I had the batteries tested, all 3 batteries test at 12.5 even on a draw. So now I'm back where I started, I had the plugs out and the motor spent like no tomorrow, and I relies that there was no load on the motor with the plugs out. So I put the plugs back in and now I'm back to square one. The motor is spinning slow and looping over, and the positive and negative as well as the wire going from the solenoid are still getting hot. The prop does spin freely in neutral and in gear it had some resistance, Ok this is what I did so far..I had the batteries checked, I had all 3 starters checked I put each one on a friend motor on his boat. and all 3 cranked his motor. I change out all the battery cables, I cleaned every piece metal that even look like a ground or positive wire, even the electrical connectors. But something is causing a great draw on the battery. I have no clue.. the only thing that is left is the solenoid and the key switch. or am i missing something.[/FONT]

 

[racerone]

Believe it or not , those starters are elegantly easy to trouble shoot.----Take it apart and inspect it internally.--All you need to have is an ohmeter.------Ask for further help when it is apart.

 

[mav6759]

[FONT=Verdana, Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Ok, I had the batteries tested, all 3 batteries test at 12.5 even on a draw. So now I'm back where I started, I had the plugs out and the motor spent like no tomorrow, and I relies that there was no load on the motor with the plugs out. So I put the plugs back in and now I'm back to square one. The motor is spinning slow and looping over, and the positive and negative as well as the wire going from the solenoid are still getting hot. The prop does spin freely in neutral and in gear it had some resistance, Ok this is what I did so far..I had the batteries checked, I had all 3 starters checked I put each one on a friend motor on his boat. and all 3 cranked his motor. I change out all the battery cables, I cleaned every piece metal that even look like a ground or positive wire, even the electrical connectors. But something is causing a great draw on the battery. I have no clue.. the only thing that is left is the solenoid and the key switch. or am i missing something. Ok i test the negative side of the battery to the positive side on the [/FONT]solenoid [FONT=Verdana, Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]. it was reading 5.9 and jumping to 6.49.[/FONT]

 

[metriccrescentwrench]

[FONT=Verdana, Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif] Ok i test the negative side of the battery to the positive side on the [/FONT]solenoid [FONT=Verdana, Tahoma, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]. it was reading 5.9 and jumping to 6.49.[/FONT]

Do each and every one of these measurements, each one while someone cranks the engine:

1. Measure the voltage from the + battery terminal to the + connection on the solenoid.

2. measure the voltage across the solenoid.

3. Measure the voltage between the output lug on the solenoid and the + post on the starter.

4.Finally measure the voltage between the - battery terminal and a good ground on the engine.

 

[mav6759]

P.S. Also while checking the solenoid, the motor would not turn off by the switch, I had to disconnect the negative battery post in order for the motor to stop turn, now everytime I connect the negative battery the motor want to turn over without the key. so right now I can't do anymore checking until I figure out how to stop the motor from turning on it own,

 

[mav6759]

Can the starter relay cause a low voltage to the starter, because right now, I can't connect the battery with the starter engaging...

 

[metriccrescentwrench]

Sounds like the contacts on your solenoid are welded together, you'll need to replace the solenoid. And yes, a bad solenoid can certainly cause a reduced voltage to the starter - That's the reason I suggested measuring voltage drop across each component.

 

[mav6759]

Ok I changed out the relay, and I still have the same problem, ok I know its not the batteries, starter, solenoid, cables, I have clean every connection through the motor, Since I change out the solenoid, the starter motor just spin's. I have no idea what could be the cause.

 

[mav6759]

Ok here is what i found....

Do each and every one of these measurements, each one while someone cranks the engine:

1. Measure the voltage from the + battery terminal to the + connection on the solenoid. ........8v

2. measure the voltage across the solenoid........0

3. Measure the voltage between the output lug on the solenoid and the + post on the starter.........0

4.Finally measure the voltage between the - battery terminal and a good ground on the engine. 1.51

 

[mav6759]

Re-tested

just picked up a new started today. Still doing the same thing, solenoid does click,

1. Measure the voltage from the + battery terminal to the + connection on the solenoid......7v

2. measure the voltage across the solenoid without key in the start position......12v. With key in the start position ... 0

3. Measure the voltage between the output lug on the solenoid and the + post on the starter......0

4.Finally measure the voltage between the - battery terminal and a good ground on the engine......1.74

Remove the cable from the solenoid to the starter.
Disconnect the small black ground wire from the engine to the starter solenoid. Measure the voltage on this terminal with the key turned to start.... 12.85v

 

[mav6759]

Question, I have gone throw 4 starters that I have gotten off ebay, Each starter that I have gotten did not work when I bench tested them. The starter did spin, but the bendex didn't move. With each of the starters, I changed out the brushes. But while in the starter, I noticed that the magnet on the inside of the housing was damaged in each of the starter. Some of the magnets were cracked, some the magnets were missing a little piece or two. I guess my question would be, how important is that magnet to the starter to operate properly.

 

[mav6759]

Question, When i bench test a used started, shouldn't the bendix move up the shaft and spin,

 

[mav6759]

I'm still having some starter issues, OK, I have 3 batteries at 12.8v each, I put a brand new starter, brand new solenoid, I have cleaned every post,and I still can't get the starter to up to the flywheel. I am getting 12.5v to the + side of the solenoid, while turning the motor over I'm only getting 7.6 out of the solenoid. I have no idea what this could be.

HELP