Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

Jeff Newton

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Nov 8, 2006
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9
I recently purchased an old boat with an older 75hp Sea Horse outboard. the vacuum lines on the automatic choke have been disconnected, eventually runs after warm up but has almost no idle, it runs at moderate and high speed but just quits on low speed.
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

Jeff,

That engine has probably been sitting around awhile.

How much do you want to put into it?

At a minimum:

1. Rebuild the carburetors with new kits: $60.00

2. New water pump: $35.00

3. Flush/fill lower unit: $20.00

4. New hoses/fuel: $40.00

5. Manual: $35.00

Those prices are just estimates, based on YOUR labor. #5 should be the first purchase.

I'm running a 31 year old Johnson and it runs as good as a new one, so it can be done.

You just have to figure out the economics, for yourself.
 

Jeff Newton

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Nov 8, 2006
Messages
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Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

This is ultimately a winter project so any and all of the above will probably happen. I found the parts manual on ebay and received it recently. I'm temporarily on a budget so I haven't gotten any further into things, and haven't bought a repair manual yet. Suggestions on this? The motor seems strong enough even though it's not consistent, and smokes very little once warm, when cold the smoke is fairly blue but that subsides.
 

Jeff Newton

Cadet
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
9
Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

DWJ said:
Jeff,

That engine has probably been sitting around awhile.

How much do you want to put into it?

At a minimum:

1. Rebuild the carburetors with new kits: $60.00

2. New water pump: $35.00

3. Flush/fill lower unit: $20.00

4. New hoses/fuel: $40.00

5. Manual: $35.00

Those prices are just estimates, based on YOUR labor. #5 should be the first purchase.

I'm running a 31 year old Johnson and it runs as good as a new one, so it can be done.

You just have to figure out the economics, for yourself.
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

Jeff,

The OEM manual is best. They (reprints) are available at Ken Cook. Smoke is no determinant factor.

If your compression is even (within 5-10 psi) on all cylinders, you have a healthy base engine. If not, you're in for a whole lot more. The economics change if the base engine is not healthy.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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51,019
Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

i've got a 55 15 hp thats better than the new ones.
 

F_R

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Messages
28,226
Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

If the hoses are disconnected from the automatic choke, it obviously won't work. But most of them don't work worth beans anyway, even when they were new. Just choke and unchoke it manually. Is the choke-to-intake manifold hose plugged? If just left open it will suck air and not idle. Does it idle with the hood off but not on? There is a seal on top of the water pump that if left off will allow exhaust to go up under the hood and really mess up the running as it is ingested into the carburetor.
 

Jeff Newton

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Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
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Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

DWJ, thanks for the input so far, used ta think I was computer literate, but this forums kicking my backside.....
I haven't gotten close to checking compression yet, pretty much just a cursory on the motor and advice before I touch ANYTHING. This goes on the short list tho.

FR, All I've got so far is the parts manual which is a poor substitue on connections in general. there are 3 connections on the auto choke, one for choke adaptor, one for choke cylinder and the on (i think you mean) for the "Auto-Choke Manifold" all three are disconnected on the top of the motor, no plugs etc. according to another drawing of the powerhead I see a hose marked "hose cylinder to auto -choke" unfortunately I don't have a freakin clue where it is actually supposed to be connected. with only the main cover off I can't see where it may have gone, there are no obvious plugs I can see going into the block. any clues?
 

Jeff Newton

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Nov 8, 2006
Messages
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Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

the motor by the way is a V4A-13F ,the parts manual is the correct one.
 

Jeff Newton

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Nov 8, 2006
Messages
9
Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

Okee dokee, I just looked at the Ken Cook Marine site and they want about $80.00 for the service manual alone.....yikes! guess thats gonna have to wait a couple of weeks......
FR,
to finish answering your question, I ran the motor with the front access cover (by carb) open and closed last week, it didn't seem to make any difference regarding idle or general running. gotta figure out where the water pump is....................
 

F_R

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28,226
Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

A water hose goes from a nipple high on the engine block, starboard side, to the top of the hot water choke housing (usually a red part). Another water hose comes off the bottom of the same red part and goes to a nipple on the adapter plate under the powerhead, port side. A third, vacuum hose, comes off the bottom of the diaphragm housing which is held onto the above red part by three screws, and goes to a nipple on the intake manifold, below the carburetor, front of the motor.

The smoke idea was just a wild a... guess.

e-bay is the best place to find factory manuals at a decent price.
 

Joe Reeves

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13,262
Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

Something that should be of interest to you follows.

Also, when you remove the top portion of the carburetor, you'll see two (2) venturies in the center of the carburetor throats. THey must be perfectly centered to deliver fuel evenly to the cylinders SO.... before loosening those two (2) screws retaining each one, scribe a mark around the base of each one to guide you in returning them to their present location.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Older V/4 Downdraft Carb)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: The early model downdraft carburetors incorporated "Adjustable High Speed Jets". The later model downdraft carburetors used "Fixed High Speed Jets". Follow the below instructions accordingly.

NOTE: If you do not have adjustable high speed jets, ignore those paragraphs pertaining to same...... BUT do make sure that you manually inspect and clean the two brass fixed high speed jets which would be located in back of the two 7/16" slotted hex head bolts in the bottom front portion of the float chamber.

Lift the center High Speed Control lever and turn it so that the point faces forward, resting on the high ridge. This will disengage the lever control gear from the individual high speed jets (slots). Have the slow speed needle valve knobs installed upside down so that they can be turned without encountering any obstruction.

Gently seat each of the High Speed needle valves, then back each one out one (1) turn. Gently seat each of the Slow Speed needle valves, then back each one out one and one half (1-1/2) turns. NOTE... have the jam nut on the s/speed needles snug so that vibration won't have any effect on them, but loose enough so that you can turn them without a great amount of effort.

(High Speed)
With a reliable person at the wheel, and one kneeling in front of the engine, start the engine (yes, it will run lousy with the above initial needle valve settings), put it into forward gear, and apply full throttle. Start with the High Speed adjustment on the left using a screwdriver that properly fits the slot.

(High Speed Adjustments)
At full throttle, with the proper size screwdriver, slowly start turning one of the H/S needles in segments of 1/8 turn, waiting momentarily for the engine to respond, then repeat turning. You will reach a point where the engine will start to die out. At that point, back that needle valve out approximately 1/4 turn. Now, go to the other High Speed needle valve and repeat that procedure. At some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest high speed setting (you can now lower the throttle rpm). That will have both high speed needle valves set correctly, and at that point you can lift that center lever adjustment of that high ridge, keeping it lifted until the point is facing the engine, then lower it into its proper position. (When you turn that lever now, you're adjusting both High Speed needle valves at the same time.)

(Slow Speed Adjustments)
Now, lowering the rpms of course, take the engine out of gear and set the throttle just to where the engine will stay running. Again, in segments of 1/8 turn, slowly start turning in one of the slow speed needle valves, waiting a few seconds between each turning for the engine to respond. As you turn the s/speed needles in, the rpms will increase..... and as it does, lower the rpms to where the engine will just stay running (otherwise the rpms will climb quite high). You will reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back the needle valve out 1/4 turn. Repeat the process with the remaining slow speed needle. Again, at some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest setting. When finished, tighten the jam nut somewhat, then remove and reinstall the s/speed knobs correctly (right side up).
 

Jeff Newton

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Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
9
Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

FR and Joe Reeves, Okay now that I got everyone warmed up.....I have to play auto mechanic briefly before a trip out of town for several days. big difference between 4x4 front ends and outboards. I'll have to photograph the outboard so I can compare the parts manual and pics to the descriptions. I truly appreciate all the input and have copied most of it to note pad for when the time comes (soon) Thanks again, and I'll talk to you next week.
 

matt9923

Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 6, 2008
Messages
421
Re: Help with OLD 61 Johnson Sea horse

i've got a 55 15 hp thats better than the new ones.

I agree but what make them better? longer lasting better parts?
Thanks
cheaper new 8.8 tohatsu was 1600 my friend just picked one up.
My whole boat was 300 + 200 to get it going to my likening.
Matt
 
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