Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

[sea wolf]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

It's a 3.0, but I'm not ready to sell yet. I 'll get this drive on if it's the last thing I do. I ain't givin up just yet. But, thanx for the offer.

 

[lakelivin]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

sea wolf, <br /><br />Given your recurring problems and the fact that you're doing it mostly by yourself, you really should think about building that outdrive holder I referenced above. The hernia issue disappears. One person can easily remove/ replace a drive that lines up. For one that doesn't, like yours, the holder lets you easily maneuver the drive as far as it will go and hold it in place so you can see/ evaluate where the problem is. <br /><br />Once you figure out and fix whatever the problem is, pulling and replacing the drive for regular maintenance should be a snap. <br /><br />I know, I've had mine on & off (by myself) at least 3 times over the last week trying to get the d**n shift system set up correctly (put in new transom shift cable). I think (hope) I've finally got it; went back to the beginning & think the shift rod was one turn too high, throwing everthing else off. Put the drive back on and bellcarank seemed to line up with the shiftrod 'v-notch' better this time, but haven't had a chance to see how the rest of the cable adjustments inside the boat go yet. <br /><br />If everyting is ok, I need to pull the drive one more time & put on a gasket, sealer, etc. Figured I'm better off 'dry' fitting it back together till I get it right instead of wasting gaskets. <br /><br />I'm guessing (not having done muce other mechanical work, either on boats or cars) that part of the Cobra problem (outside of parts scarcity) may have to do with tolerances/ measurement that may be more tight/ specific than some people are used to dealing with. I mean, 17 13/64" for the shift rod height? 7 9/16" (+- 1/32") for the correct distance at the engine end of the transom shift cable? And the worst (for me), trying to make sure that the bellcrank is perpendicular to the housing. It would be fairly easy if the bellcrank body was the same width, but it tapers from back to front, making it real tough for me to guage perpendicular, even when using an L-square against the housing. If anyone has any tips on how to make the perpendicular setting easier, please pass them on! If it wasn't a one shot deal I'd definitely be searching for the OMC tool, even if it is $35 or $40.<br /><br />But I have learned alot, which hopefullly will save me quite a bit down the road.<br /><br />I know how frustrated you must be and until you've got your drive back on I suspect nothing is going to help. But once you've got it back together, perhaps you can focus on the benefits to a cobra. e.g., having access to the waterpump & impeller without having to pull the drive; I've heard that changing bellows is easier than on a Merc; perhaps a few other things I don't know about?<br /><br />Anyways, good luck!

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

seaWolf, drop a number to call here:<br />EJDSR251@aol.com

 

[seahorse5]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

Originally posted by vatter41:<br /> No, I am specifically refering to the spline shaft. You should lube it with oil, not grease. The grease will hydrolock preventing isertion of the spline shaft. It even said this on the instruction sheet that came in the gasket set from Sierra (the kit whick included the "O" Rings.

The factory wants you to use MolyLube on the splnes to keep them from wearing the coupler. They also want ONLY oil on the 2 shaft orings to ease installation and to not "hydrolock" if using grease on them.

 

[sea wolf]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

Had to work today at my "other job", so as soon as I got home I went at it again. Still no luck. But, I believe I "thimk" I know what may be happening. When I changed the gimbal bearing I also replaced the oil seal that goes in front of it. I shined a bright light in there & it appears that the seal is larger in diameter than the gimbal bore. I may be wrong but if I'm right the drive shaft is hanging up on this seal where the diameter of the shaft is larger. I don't know if the dealer sold me the wrong seal or what. In any case I now have to pull the gimbal bearing to get at the seal. I'm going to leave the seal out & see if the drive goes in. Or I may if I can somehow trim the seal so it's smaller in diameter. Thoughts?

 

[sea wolf]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

Well, I'm throwing in the towel. Spent another 3 hrs. today on it today. This drive just absolutely refuses to go in. I have double & triple checked the alignment & done all I can with it. I know when I'm beat. Tomorrow a.m. I call the boat yard down the road from me & see if they'll take it in. I went from a 20 min. install a couple months ago to a 3 day project this time to try & get it installed. And what about next time around? No thanx. I swear to God I will never ever own another boat with an omc emblem on it. In any case thanx to all for your tips & advice.

 

[weslacey]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

sea wolf- i know you don't want to hear it but i feel your pain. I went through the same thing for about a week trying to get the l/u back on my '86 omc cobra. I finally got to my wits end and got creative. Most people probably wouldn't recommend this, but i did it anyways. I hooked the l/u back up to the trim and then carefully trimmed down. This pulled the l/u towards the boat, and it went right in. In my case it wasn't catching on anything, it was just hard to get in and needed a little help. Good luck.

 

[sea wolf]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

whlmstu, I tried that trick a couple years ago but it didn't work for me. But it's a good idea. I brought it into a shop & they reattached the drive. Apparently it was slightly out of alignment. I'm not looking forward to this process again. It's a total hassle. I now have to work on getting the shift cable correct as I don't have reverse. Another omc screwup, which is the reason they don't makr drives anymore. I asked the shop that did the work if they would attempt to adjust the cable. They said no thanx. They won't touch 'em, 'cause it's too much of a hassle. This fall, I'm going to work on getting the boat into tip top shape. Nothing major, just a few odds & ends. Next spring I'll probably sell it. It's a damn shame because for an '87 the boat itself is in great condition. I'd rather spend my time on the water, & the season in these parts is short enough without having to babysit this drive system.

 

[Don S]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

If you really like the boat, and it's all in good shape, you might want to consider a repower.<br />A new Volvo. (Even Mercruiser if you are so inclined) engine, drive, transom shield setup would sure make the boat better for you.<br />The Volvo would eliminate that shift interrupt system all together, as would a Mercruiser Bravo drive.<br />Either would fit the transom cutout.

 

[lakelivin]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

Don't mean to hound you, but I wouldn't want to even try putting my drive back on using just muscle to hold/ adjust/ push it in. If you're gonna spend time on it this fall (and especially if you have to adjust the shift system!), really suggest you bite the bullet & build a drive holder so all you have to do is slide it back into position (of course, making whatever adjustments/ manipulations you need to while it sits in place fully supported). <br /><br />So easy to pulll & replace mine; cost is next to nothing & you'd probably make up the time it takes to build it just replacing the drive once or twice, even if you weren't having such a major problem.<br /><br />Good luck!

 

[sea wolf]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

Don, a Volvo repower is about $5,000.

 

[cjflanagan]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

Oh for goodness sake... there is a little shift shoe (on the heavy piece you have been fighting) that enguages a foot on the bottom of the big hole in the boat you have been trying to stick the heavy part into. If these two pieces don't line up you will fight it all day. Get them lined up, go make up with the neighbors end of story.<br /><br />Oh one other thing... I put just a dite of bellows adhesive on the big black rubber washer to glue in place on the big heavy part before I stick it in the hole. If you have damaged this rubber o ring during the 3 hour battle, you are going to get water leaking into the drive bellows. You won't like that.

 

[Don S]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

Don, a Volvo repower is about $5,000.

How about $15,000 +<br /><br />Can you buy another used boat with a brand new MPI engine, with new trim/tilt, new transom shield, new drive (DuoProp) with props and warranty for 15K ?

 

[Lou C]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

I think seawolf is talking only changing the drive and pivot, and adding the water pump on the engine. Still might be more than 5K though just for parts. If the rest of the boat is good I'd do it. What can you get for $5K used? crap mostly.<br />Even for 10K, in 20' I/O boats you are getting a 10 year old boat. Anything could be wrong with it, or it could be great, or anything inbetween.<br /><br />well after reading all this, all I can say is that I used to be like you seawolf, I wanted to fix everything myself, partly for the knowledge gained, and the satisfaction. But I have learned that I will never have the time to acquire the skill that a really good marine mechanic has. I'll give you an example:<br />my boat--88 FW 200, 4.3 Cobra. 1st season, trouble getting it out of gear. 2nd season, played around with it, still trouble getting neutral. 3rd season, wised up, realized if I am gonna use this thing, gotta get a pro. Since then, no problems with the Cobra. Shifts like a new drive. Motor pulls full throttle rpm like it should, idles smooth and always starts.<br />Example #2 neighbor's boat 85 Chapparal, 350/Alpha drive. He's a real shade tree guy, even used a a real big shade tree to pull the motor once! Had shifting problems and water leak somewhere in transom. Spent 3 weekends trying to fix it himself. Puts in in the water, leaves it on the mooring, boat almost sinks. Pulls it out, boat yard pickles engine, he loses interest because he has a bigger boat in better condition (straight inboard, less trouble) that he uses for fishing, but the thing with twin 350s just gobbles gas. Chapparal sitting on the trailer. <br />Moral: sometimes it's better to realize we don't know all that the pro knows. I still do the winterizing, tune ups, etc. The drive work I leave to him. Cheaper than a Volvo conversion, for sure!

 

[Don S]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

Volvo did make a kit for changing the drive to a new DP-S. It included an engine driven raw water pump, hoses, brackets, drive pivot housing, new bellows (Ujoint and exhaust) drive of proper gear ratio, did not include props.<br />The kit alone was between 9 and 10K a few years ago.<br />The complete repower is around 15 as I recall.<br />You do the math.

 

[Lou C]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

On marine parts express www.marinepartsexpress.com you can get the single prop SX, pivot and water pump for about 5900. But of course there is the other stuff which all adds up. If the person doing this had Cobra that is still usable, you could at least sell it off to get some of the $$ back.

 

[bfd72]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

sea wolf ,if you are still having your reverse problem this is something you might check ,i had the same problem and the new cable was the culprit ,turns out it was catching at the outdrive end of the new cable, it was not returning inside the cable sheath when i would attempt to put it in reverse, the threaded end of the cable, that hooks to the bellcrank, has a sort of step up about 3 or 4 inches back where it converges with the actuall cable part of the shift cable this step-up part was catching on the brass tube part, of the cable sheath ,and not allowing the cable to make its complete throw, i actually had,to trim the oppossite end of the cable about 1/4 " to get it to work properly, it was just to long to allow the cable to slide back in the sheath with out catching on the step on the oppossite end ,unfortunately the only way you would see this is with the outdrive off and im, not sure after your dillema you are willing to remove the outdrive again if you are sure the other cables are,nt binding and its not in your shifter then,i would try shortening the cable just a scosh. if by some luck you can get the cable worked back into the sheath without removing the.outdrive by trying to work the shifter into reverse and if it does then take the end off the cable on the engine side and trim the cable 1/4 -3/8 an inch, hook everything back up and retry your reverse, if it works then readjust the 7 5/8 measurement at engine end of cable with the screw in end and lock nut to get your 7 5/8 " measurement this worked for me and the shifter shifts like butter now w/one finger . i personally knew my other cables and shifter were in good shape as they were all real new and forward reverse worked prior to outdrive cable replacement,i was fortunate enough to have the outdrive off still when i discovered the reverse problem and was able to adjust and trim everything that way if you try this just be careful not to take to much of the cable off when trimming it, everyone might not recomend this but it worked for me and was the only solution for mine to stop binding and ultimately ruining the new cable in the long run. hope this makes sence to you my marine parts vocabulary is somewhat limited ,but i feel you,r frustration and just thought i would relay this ,cause i have some neighbors who were giving me the stinkeye also, when i was tryin to figure this out, and talking rather loud and nasty to my omc cobra, and it did,nt do a Damn thing to fix it either,felt good at the time though ,(thank god for Budweieser,ya know!!! .. well i hope this gives you a little insight as to what may be possibly tripin your reverse up,good luck.. bfd72

 

[lakelivin]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

bfd, thanks for that info. Don't know if that's a problem for sea wolf, but I'm gonna definitely check out mine if this last adjustment didn't do the trick. I replaced the transom shift cable & have been having problems getting the adjustments correct. Finally rechecked the shift rod, found it to be 1 rotation too high, corrected, but haven't done the internal adjustments yet to see if that did the trick. But I do recall the cable 'catching' occasionally when I worked it from the engine end even before I replaced the outdrive. Given that I have around 3/4" of extra threaded cable at past the retainer AFTER I adjusted according to specs, seems like theres a decent chance I'm susceptable to the same problem. Was thinking of trimming the excess threaded rod coming out of the shift cable guide at the transom, but trimming the cable at the engine end makes alot more sense. Just to double check, you just trimmed the cable, and not the threaded rod, correct? <br /><br />Mods, given the number of problems people have with Cobra shift adjustments, wonder if there is any chance of compiling hints such as this one in a Cobra shift section under FAQs?

 

[bfd72]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

lakelivin you are correct, i did only trim the cable on the engine side to get it to go in the sheath just that lil bit that was hangin up up only took off maybe 1/4+ or so just to pull the cable up past that sticking point after cutting it off make sure you deburr the cut end with a file so it will slide back in place in the linkage piece with the 2 small retaining bolts.i set the adjustment at the engine side first (7 5/8 inch i believe it was). make sure you,re cable is pushed all the way into that engine side of linkage! and that should take up most of the extra thread that is stickin out ,but it was still long & binding ,i found that sticking point where the cable enters the sheath at the bellcrank end, and decided to trim it at the engine side of the cable to avoid the problem after the drive was hung back in place, i probably would not trim the threaded end you will need all those threads to make adjustments at the bellcrank end ,hope this helps let us know ,good luck..... bfd72

 

[jme1149]

Re: Here we go again........can't get cobra l/u back on

SeaWolf, I feel your pain. I inherited an 89 5.0L OMC that had the bevel gears in the Upper Unit completely chewed up. Slapped on a remanufactured upper unit, then spent hours trying to wrestle that pig back onto the transom. Finally got it back on then realized that all the shavings from the gaers had to go somewhere and since I didn't see them in the oil, they might be in the lower unit. Pull it back off, tear the lower unit down, clean and put new seals in, then fight it back onto the boat again. Fired it up and major grinding going into forward until around 1/2 throttle. Not a real good way to try to dock or trailer. I found the cable adjustment suggestions and tried them repeatedly last weekend in the 95 degree heat. Grinding is better than it was but still there. I'm thinking I have to pull the drive off again to readjust the shift rod height. I'm hoping that the suggestions from this thread, specifically the stand, screwdriver, and trim cylinders make it easier to get back on than my first two attempts.