Orignally, my 1988 Merc 100 had a 10 amp alternator and rectifier. Once at a remote location I had to pull start the motor thinking the battery was discharged. It was actually an open cell and before I realized what was going on, the resultant high voltage burned out several gauges and the fuel tank sending unit. In 1989 I replaced the rectifier with a rectifier/regulator and terminal block for the tachometer connection. It has worked perfectly never exceeding 14.5 volts. Last week I tested the motor in the driveway and the battery seemed weak when I tried to start. Dealer tested the battery and I decided to replace the battery rather than risk spoiling a vacation. I now have a group 24 marine starting battery that seems to have plenty of juice, but all last week the voltmeter would climb up around 16 volts. Operating the power trim would lower the voltage for a bit and where it used to climb up to 14.5 volts it now would go to 16+. I ran with the lights on to keep the volts down since the magneto tops out at 10 amps anyway. Well, the last day I went to test the electrical system (by the book)testing the output voltage and by placing an ampmeter in series with the regulator output. There was a hint of the beginning of something going on in the regulator (discoloration on the encapsulant on the regulator). I wasn't sure what I was seeing, so I put it all back and everything seemed fine until this hideous black smoke and tar started shooting up out of the regualator. So, here is the question: Is there anything that a otherwise normal Group 24 marine starting battery can do to, what I would guess, act like it has an open cell and not take the charging system output? By the way, I put the battery on an external charger to simulate a 2 or 10 amp non-reguated outboard and the volts climbed as on the boat. I tested the external charger on two other batteries and the charger voltage topped out at 14.x+. Now I am looking at $160 for a new regulator unless I can prove the battery was the source of my problem. What's up? 